Ppi fanatics

2ohm mono?! Wont it blow up at that impedance?
It could very well blow up man.But I did run an A600.2 @ 2 ohms mono/bridged back in the 90s, but i kept the gain down and had it raised to keep it as cool as possible and did fine for over a year on a Pair of SVC 4 ohm Still Water Kicker 10s.I later replaced with an Autotek Mean Machine 99 of which I still have today and use.Its better to stay at 4 ohms mono /Bridged..Safer on that amp to be honest, but will do and run fine @8 ohms at approx 1/2 of the 4 ohm rms rating.I apologize.. I shouldnt put you at risking your amps capabilities,as I did mine.I always took chances, as i did with my 1st Hifonics VII Cyclops and tried it at 2 ohm mono, and stated nothing lower than 4 ohms/rated, but it did run at 2 ohm mono , and threw eybrows back at a shop I was working part time in back in the early 89-91,and I went on to take even more chances, as experimenting was what I did and enjoyed such as that Autotek BTS 7050/44 watts,that I also took a chance and ran 2 ohm bridged/mono and ran 4/12s and still functions today just fine.

 
So update. Im thinking of switching to a zapco c2k 6.0, specs say ok at 2ohm bridged for 1200watts. Good move or bad? Not familiar with zapco. Are they as good as ppi?

 
So this is from my car audio brochure stash which I have kept over the course of the years. Hope this clears up any confusion....

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Only bad thing about o/s amps is they can only run 2 ohms/4 ohms mono. Unlike today's amps, some can do 1 ohm no problem.

I have tons of other brochures from diff brands.

 
Do NOT run that amp at 2 ohm mono/bridged. It wasn't designed for that type load. just because it may survive for a while doesn't mean it's a good idea. Look at the specs posted in the brochure pic above. The amp was designed to make rated power into low VOLTAGES not low impedances. The amp isn't a so-called "cheater" from back in the day. Most PPI amps weren't. Old school class a/b amps are terribly inefficient anyway. Asking them to perform at loads beyond their design only compounds the problem and stresses the power supply.

OP, run that amp at 2/4 ohm stereo or 4 ohm mono/bridged and you'll be good. Run it at 8 ohm and you'll never have a problem.

If you want to run at 2 ohm mono/bridged (same as 1 ohm stereo) or lower, just pickup a modern budget class D amp.

 
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