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<blockquote data-quote="PPI_GUY" data-source="post: 8601393" data-attributes="member: 618066"><p>Do NOT run that amp at 2 ohm mono/bridged. It wasn't designed for that type load. just because it may survive for a while doesn't mean it's a good idea. Look at the specs posted in the brochure pic above. The amp was designed to make rated power into low VOLTAGES not low impedances. The amp isn't a so-called "cheater" from back in the day. Most PPI amps weren't. Old school class a/b amps are terribly inefficient anyway. Asking them to perform at loads beyond their design only compounds the problem and stresses the power supply.</p><p></p><p>OP, run that amp at 2/4 ohm stereo or 4 ohm mono/bridged and you'll be good. Run it at 8 ohm and you'll never have a problem.</p><p></p><p>If you want to run at 2 ohm mono/bridged (same as 1 ohm stereo) or lower, just pickup a modern budget class D amp.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="PPI_GUY, post: 8601393, member: 618066"] Do NOT run that amp at 2 ohm mono/bridged. It wasn't designed for that type load. just because it may survive for a while doesn't mean it's a good idea. Look at the specs posted in the brochure pic above. The amp was designed to make rated power into low VOLTAGES not low impedances. The amp isn't a so-called "cheater" from back in the day. Most PPI amps weren't. Old school class a/b amps are terribly inefficient anyway. Asking them to perform at loads beyond their design only compounds the problem and stresses the power supply. OP, run that amp at 2/4 ohm stereo or 4 ohm mono/bridged and you'll be good. Run it at 8 ohm and you'll never have a problem. If you want to run at 2 ohm mono/bridged (same as 1 ohm stereo) or lower, just pickup a modern budget class D amp. [/QUOTE]
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