Post Your (How To) Wiring A Headunit

ZDudas
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This is how I wired mine. Twisted the two matching wires together, crimped it with a crimp cap. Then got them all together and electrical taped the ***** out of them so no moisture can enter. What do you think? Post up how you did yours too.

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The black one goes to the Pioneer deck, and the white on goes to the stock electrical harness.

 
Normally I solder them and cover each with a short piece of heatshrink then a bigger heatshrink over them all. This eliminates the big bulge from crimp connectors. But your method looks clean enough to me.

 
Normally I solder them and cover each with a short piece of heatshrink then a bigger heatshrink over them all. This eliminates the big bulge from crimp connectors. But your method looks clean enough to me.
Same. Except I don't usually shrink the entire bundle, just the individual wires. I zip tie em all together for strength though.

 
I solder wires and use 3m super33+ electrical tape. Its thinner and shrinks on wire if u put it on right after u solder. Then I tape all wires so all u see is the plugs. No wires. No pic cause its in the truck. Looks very clean tho

 
I'm all for a clean install. Wish I had access to solder. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif But everything is functioning just fine the way I have it now.

 
>.

Twist the wires together and use a butt connector to hold them together, it works great.

You guys give me a hard time for some of the stuff that I write that comes off as too extreme or outrageous... I think soldering speaker/power wire together is pretty gd hard core and excessive.

But it is the BEST way to go. And I am not going to argue with ya. lol

 
>.Twist the wires together and use a butt connector to hold them together, it works great.

You guys give me a hard time for some of the stuff that I write that comes off as too extreme or outrageous... I think soldering speaker/power wire together is pretty gd hard core and excessive.

But it is the BEST way to go. And I am not going to argue with ya. lol
I don't solder unless I have to. My current install uses butt crimps on the HU harness and I regretted doing that because they make the wire bundle fat and there's precious little room in the dash opening. Soldering and a bit of heatshrink would have made a smaller harness.

In general, in my work anything smaller than 20 gage gets soldered because crimps aren't reliable, and anything bigger than 14 gage gets crimped because soldering takes too much heat. YMMV.

 
I don't solder unless I have to. My current install uses butt crimps on the HU harness and I regretted doing that because they make the wire bundle fat and there's precious little room in the dash opening. Soldering and a bit of heatshrink would have made a smaller harness.
In general, in my work anything smaller than 20 gage gets soldered because crimps aren't reliable, and anything bigger than 14 gage gets crimped because soldering takes too much heat. YMMV.
That's a valid complaint about the butt connectors and space issues.

 
I put a 3m splice from the hu bundle on the +12 and the +ACC. My hu ground is on its own point to the car chassis. +REM is twisted and electrical taped, built into the rcas. I'm not worried about those coming undone..

I don't like to go overboard on electrical tape to keep out moisture. If it does get in there, the tape will keep in inside. I repair CATV spliced with tape around them more often than the ones with out. The ones with rubber grommets and/or dielectric stand up over time better. Just some things I've noticed over the years.

If I was getting paid by the hour to do a job then by all means, I'll take the time to solder and shrink wrap...

 
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ZDudas

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