Pops from speakers.

[RangerMan Premium Member]

Originally posted by stangsounds youre probably bridged at 2 ohms //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/banghead.gif.8606515f668c74f6de0281deb475b6fd.gif

Naw...should not make the subs pop...the amp would be hot.

 

[blitz25 10+ year member]

check your ground if your not getting a good ground if your ground is not good you could be having energy splurges and at higher levels the more the power the more the pop what is your head unit grounded to did you use the factory or did you make your own how are your amps grounded:nono:

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

Originally posted by RangerMan This shouldn't be happening...when the subs are pretty much gone, they continue to pop even when being powered correctly. Your subs might be partially blown. How old are they??? Are you the orignial owner???

Brand new. I put a 50 Hz test CD in the deck and a 'scope and DMM on the amp to set the gains. When I got up to about 16 vrms (64 watts) they "buzzed", probably the rear deck vibrating. I stopped there. Then when I played some music, they popped on the peaks so I had to back off even more. They're not loud at all... in fact the Infinity 6X9's are just as loud on only HU power. I need to get more power to them somehow.

 

[RangerMan Premium Member]

Originally posted by maylar Brand new. I put a 50 Hz test CD in the deck and a 'scope and DMM on the amp to set the gains. When I got up to about 16 vrms (64 watts) they "buzzed", probably the rear deck vibrating. I stopped there. Then when I played some music, they popped on the peaks so I had to back off even more. They're not loud at all... in fact the Infinity 6X9's are just as loud on only HU power. I need to get more power to them somehow.

When you turn the volume up, does the sub fade out???

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

Originally posted by RangerMan When you turn the volume up, does the sub fade out???

Nope. Keeps gettng louder up to the point where it starts popping. Only good thing is the Kickers at least go to 30 Hz, so they're filling the void for the bottom end but no where near loud enough.
This weekend I'm gonna take the RMB8's out and mount them to an MDF plank and see if I can get them to take the power they're supposed to. I'm curious to find out if it's the speakers or the installation that's lame.

 

[RangerMan Premium Member]

Originally posted by maylar Nope. Keeps gettng louder up to the point where it starts popping. Only good thing is the Kickers at least go to 30 Hz, so they're filling the void for the bottom end but no where near loud enough.

 

This weekend I'm gonna take the RMB8's out and mount them to an MDF plank and see if I can get them to take the power they're supposed to. I'm curious to find out if it's the speakers or the installation that's lame.

I would be willing to bet it is the speakers...I trust your install

 

[chris229 10+ year member]

what are the speakers mounted in???????? the box design has a direct effect on the amount of power a speaker can handle before reaching the mechinical limits-----POP....

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

Originally posted by chris229 what are the speakers mounted in???????? the box design has a direct effect on the amount of power a speaker can handle before reaching the mechinical limits-----POP....

RMB8's are free-air mounted under my rear deck. With the size of my trunk, I think it's the definition of "Infinite" baffle lol.

 

[chris229 10+ year member]

Originally posted by maylar RMB8's are free-air mounted under my rear deck. With the size of my trunk, I think it's the definition of "Infinite" baffle lol.

then it CAN'T take full rated power----- as there isn't a box to work against-------------- that's your problem---- get a box or reduce the power---- the poping will then stop

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

These speakers are ~designed~ for IB applications. Kicker doesn't even list box sizes for them. I don't think they'd spec them at 175w free-air if they meant otherwise.

 

[chris229 10+ year member]

Originally posted by maylar These speakers are ~designed~ for IB applications. Kicker doesn't even list box sizes for them. I don't think they'd spec them at 175w free-air if they meant otherwise.

i'm telling you free air systems can't take much power. The baffle would have to be airtight too. If the speaker can handle 175W free air that would require a STRONG suspension and THAT would make the speaker MORE inefficient. The 175w rating is a termial rating----------- not a mechanical one

 

[h2dav 10+ year member]

I found that the usual rated power handling is the least amount i.e. bandpass box power for a sub, infinite baffle for a 6x9 I have the same speakers giving them a 150w RMS although I never get close to the max for fear of my ear drums bleading I've never gotten a poping sound I have boxes foe them now but the only noticeable diffrence is low end response. By the way i recomend you set your cut off at 100HZ. The poping sound usually comes when you turn your volume up all the way and your amp clips. Just because it says 60w your only going to get about 50 at the speaker depending on your wiring try a larger amp.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[chris229 10+ year member]

Originally posted by h2dav I found that the usual rated power handling is the least amount i.e. bandpass box power for a sub, infinite baffle for a 6x9 I have the same speakers giving them a 150w RMS although I never get close to the max for fear of my ear drums bleading I've never gotten a poping sound I have boxes foe them now but the only noticeable diffrence is low end response. By the way i recomend you set your cut off at 100HZ. The poping sound usually comes when you turn your volume up all the way and your amp clips. Just because it says 60w your only going to get about 50 at the speaker depending on your wiring try a larger amp.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

you ran 150w to them when they DIDN'T have a box and they sound fine??????? poping isn't caused by clipping

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

Originally posted by chris229 i'm telling you free air systems can't take much power. The baffle would have to be airtight too. If the speaker can handle 175W free air that would require a STRONG suspension and THAT would make the speaker MORE inefficient. The 175w rating is a termial rating----------- not a mechanical one

Chris, I think I'm getting the picture, but I'm still confused a bit. Kicker calls these midbass speakers, and says that they "go low enough to be used as free-air subs", which is what I'm doing. I have no room for boxes. So if the speaker can handle 175 wrms doesn't that imply you could put that much into them in their typical (unenclosed) application? What good is that power rating if the speaker maxes out at 50 watts? If you bought a set of comps rated 150w and they bottomed out at 50 would you be pissed?

 

[chris229 10+ year member]

Originally posted by maylar Chris, I think I'm getting the picture, but I'm still confused a bit. Kicker calls these midbass speakers, and says that they "go low enough to be used as free-air subs", which is what I'm doing. I have no room for boxes. So if the speaker can handle 175 wrms doesn't that imply you could put that much into them in their typical (unenclosed) application? What good is that power rating if the speaker maxes out at 50 watts? If you bought a set of comps rated 150w and they bottomed out at 50 would you be pissed?

BUT----------------------------- if it only takes 50W to reach FULL cone movement then there isn't any reason to be mad-------- unless your concerned about being the BIG guy who uses 1000's of watts. you see in ANY box design the BIGGER you make the box ---- the less the air holds the sub making it MORE efficient because the cone is free to move. In free air systems the box is so big (trunk) that it really has no effect on the cone anymore. Now the only thing holding the cone is the subs suspension( which are normally made stiffer to control the cone better) ------ because you stated that the compant really calls it a midbass---- that can be used as a sub makes me stand stronger on my point. WITHOUT a box the sub DOESN'T handle bass very well at higher power. AS most people know if you play most subs in the open air not mounted to anything--------they can't take much power before maxing out. This same idea applies to free air design the only difference is your keeping the back wave of the sub in a really huge box