PLEASE help me pick out the products for my Truck audio overhaul

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Pindergrass

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OLD Vehicle = 2007 Ford Edge

Pioneer Avic 920bt

Rockford Fosgate p850.4 (with a generously powerful birth certificate)

Rockford Fosgate T252-s T2 in front doors

Kicker KS or CS 6x8 in rear doors

Dynamat installed on all 4 doors

Rockfors Fosgate P3D2 12 inch sub in either 1 or 1.25 ft3, sealed and stuffed with poly

The front left and right channels of the p850.4 pushed the T2’s, while the rear channels were bridged to run the P/3 sub. (looking back inti the manual, it’s possible that I was running the components at 2 ohms and the sub at 4ohms, instead if the other way around, as they should have…not really sure). The Zapco pushed the Kickers.

I actually enjoyed both the clarity and volume of that setup (just to help give you gurus and audio gods an idea of what I like). The sub was well underpowered but it still was loud enough and very clean and responsive, for my taste. I would like to be able to hit lower frequencies though. The door speakers were really clear…almost never distorted, and were definitely loud. I wasn’t impressed with the overall sound/tone from the T2’s. While they’re clearly the dominant speaker over the kickers, I actually preferred the midbass sounds produced by the kickers over the T2. The Rockfords could scream, which is great…I still want that. However, I want my door speakers to sound like tom toms in a marching band. I want more overall frequency from my front door soeakers.

I was planning on reusing some things from my old build. I’m getting a new head Unit/Navigation…probably Kenwood this time. Please let me know if there’s something out there that’s amazing that I might be missing out on, or if Kenwoods are problematic and I should go Alpine, Pioneer, etc. All advice is greatly appreciated. I want to be able to have access to a lot of music and visuals on the unit, and I want it to be as easy as possible to link with my iphone and/or an internet connection ((I haven’t figured out how car routers work, as far the pricing to get it in your car, and then whatever it would be monthly…I also donlt know what all the advantages would be…would it be beneficial for my kids’ ipads, or if I got lcd headrests installed?) I like the Zapco, so maybe it could be used to power some additional 3s, 4s, or even regular sized door speakers installed somewhere else in the truck?...seems like overkill though, and they’d probably just wash out, correct. I’ve also always wanted to put 8’s either in the door, in kick panels, an open spot in the interior, or in the center console. I had every intention of using the P/3 sub, but it definitely doesn’t seem like it will fit under the back seat.

Soooo, CHALENGE #1 = what do I do about bass? I’ve seen an awesome custom made fiberglass enclosure that someone did to their center console in order to install a sub the size of my P/3. I’d love that, but I doubt anyone around here can do that, and if they could, it would be waaaay too expensive. The second solution would be to just start from scratch and purchase a vehicle specific enclosure such as A372-10 which is a dual 10 enclosure sprayed with bedliner. My understanding is that the liner has been doing a nice job making boxes sound better? If that’s not accurate, I think carpet looks just as good, or I could get it wrapped in leather to match the seats, I’d rather have 12’s anyway, so if bedliner does work well, I could just get a carpet one, or see if I can get one fabbed and then get it sprayed. I just don’t want to pay a lot for the enclosure, unless its really going to improve the overall sound and frequencies of the subs. Included in this challenge is also choosing one or two subs to fit in the enclosures. Of all the enclosures that will fit under my seat without a lift kit, the mountiong depths have ranged from 4 -5.5 inches. Obviously a shallow mount, but I have noticed several makes and models of subs that would fit in the box, without resorting to a shallow mount. I’ve never even heard a shallow mount, so I definitely have doubts on what they will sound like, and it definitely seems like I’d be paying double for the speaker to have the shallow mount technology/feature. Can you guys start throwing ideas at me as far as which enclosures and/or subs would work the best? If it’s really best to do a shallow mount, maybe I could get one of the more reputable ones, like JL Audio, but just purchase one sub instead of two? I’m completely lost on this one guys. I need all the help I can get! I do have a budget, and I really thought all I would need to purchase was an enclosure (approx. $100) and maybe another P/3 (another $100)…so going this new route of either getting someone to fab a fiberglass console for my P/3, or purchasing an enclosure and 1 or 2 new subs, is already more money than I thought I would be spending on Bass.

CHALLENGE #2 isn’t really that challenging, but it involves solving the first challenge in order to determine all the specs needed to power whatever I get. I want to purchase an amp to power either the P/3, or the 1 or 2 new subs that I would purchase and put into an enclosure that would go underneath the backseats.

CHALLENGE #3 also isn’t that challenging. I just need help with it because I’m going to be purchasing the most expensive speakers I’ve personally purchased, without being able to hear them first. Again, I want some components (either 2 way, or possibly even 3 way?} Crutchfield make it look like anything from a 5x7 to a 6x8 to a 6.5 or even a 6.75 will fit. I haven’t decided whether I’ll install them or have an installer do it, but either way, the less modifications that need to be made, the better. If I don’t hear back from anyone on here, I’ll probably end up going with an actual 6x8 component like JL Audio or image dynamics. But I also could see being intrigued by some other brands like Focal, CDT, Hertz, ,Helix, Dynaudio, or some amazing stuff someone on here is trying to sell used for0 a great price. I’m also curious about some other brands (not only for door speakers, but for subs as well) like PowerBass, MBQuart, Infinity, Kenwood, and Pioneer. Based on solely looking at specs, some of the cheaper items look like they should be absolutely amazing. I mean, the specs on Pioneer’s shallow mount make it look like it would be the best sub I’ve ever owned??!

Any advice/pointers on Head Units/Stereos with Navigation would be appreciated as well. I’m hoping only pay between $400-$800 for it. I’ve got a friend of a friend looking into what his employee discount is at Best Buy for a couple of units…Kenwood DNX572BH and Pioneer’s SPH-DA120. I actually had planned on getting an Alpine, but based on specs they don’t look like they can do as much as the others.

Okay, so I’m pretty sure that’s “all” that I need help with. I really hope you guys can help. Usually researching, picking out, and ordering the goods is the vest part. But this time, I’m calling in the extra troops. I really need some help.

 
There's room available under the rear seat for a standard size sub. I've gotten really good results with a single 10" ported. The '08 F150 Supercrew I finished recently used a Cerwin Vega Vega104Dv2 in an enclosure designed and built by NET Audio. Here is the enclosure I had them customize. There's no need for 12s and I don't think they would fit well without the box sticking out into passenger leg space or without compromising the strength for minimal gains by building to an odd shape. Fiberglass is unnecessary and it will greatly increase the cost.



Here's a comparison of two 10" subs, sealed in A372-10, vs 1 10" ported on the same amount of power. It's the same vehicle you have, although the graphs don't predict in-vehicle response. The lower line is the setup I removed. I installed that a couple of years ago when the vehicle was owned by someone else. I learned from this.

The F150 doesn't seem very friendly to 3-way components. It might be possible to install very small midrange drivers in the doors, but I haven't had the chance to try it. You can get great sound from 2-way components with a lot less effort(customization and labor).

 
Thanks again for the feedback. My understanding has always been that the larger the cone, the deeper the bass, and ported is stronger, but lesser quality. Using the subs in the box you recommended, would I still get deep bass with good quality and response? Using my phone, I was t able to view the pic you sent that well. I'll try to check in on the laptop tomorrow.

 
Nothing wrong with 10's it all depends on space. I have a 10" pioneer IB flat in my ranger and it sounds louder than any 12 would in my car without doing a custom blow through cause the sub is meant for small spaces. If I were you I would run 2 10's you won't regret it if you get good ones

Sent from my HUAWEI Y536A1 using Tapatalk

 
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Pindergrass

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