Please help - alternator problems

  • 7
    Participant count
  • Participant list
Is there a point to getting 2/0 welding? Or should I just go with 1/0? I've heard that 2/0 is more like car audio 1/0.
Go with 2/0. It's the same size as CA 1/0 and then you won't have to upgrade again if/when you upgrade power.

For 40 cents more a foot, I would.

 
Go with 2/0. It's the same size as CA 1/0 and then you won't have to upgrade again if/when you upgrade power.
For 40 cents more a foot, I would.
That's what I'm thinking. I might as well.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 
Is there a point to getting 2/0 welding? Or should I just go with 1/0? I've heard that 2/0 is more like car audio 1/0.
Thats just size wise. However if you condense all the copper in the wire, car audio 1/0 ofc, it weighs just as much as welding 1/0. Car audio wire does not follow AWG standards. However, bigger can never hurt, especially with our upgrade tendencies.

 
Sounds like you have low rpm and it's turning on once you get to a high enough rpm? Did u get a hairpin?
Any cheap fixes to that other than sending the alt back in for a mod? So far, ive just manually turned up my idle rpm and its okay, but wondering if theres another solution.

 
Any cheap fixes to that other than sending the alt back in for a mod? So far, ive just manually turned up my idle rpm and its okay, but wondering if theres another solution.
I don't see myself upgrading for a bit, I've had this setup almost a year and no intentions of upgrading for a while. I am doing mids and highs first and then cleaning up everything before I do bigger amp and subs.

 
I don't see myself upgrading for a bit, I've had this setup almost a year and no intentions of upgrading for a while. I am doing mids and highs first and then cleaning up everything before I do bigger amp and subs.
I'd do the mini dsp and get the software for it. You'll be amazed what can be done with proper time alignment and crossover+proper slopes. Your current head unit has zilch processing capabilities. That minidsp can be for theatre or car audio depending on how they ordered it, there's a DC power option.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'd do the mini dsp and get the software for it. You'll be amazed what can be done with proper time alignment and crossover+proper slopes. Your current head unit has zilch processing capabilities. That minidsp can be for theatre or car audio depending on how they ordered it, there's a DC power option.
I have the DC power option.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

I think you're gonna have to get good with fiberglass or something, or find someone with a 3d laser scanner that can 3d print or mold you some...
7
1K
Is this a blue or blue/white wire from the Kenwood? The ACC wire is red and although that should turn on the amp, it is not the prefered wiring...
1
756
The sound deadening is going to be more about preventing vibration from metal surfaces and adding unwanted noise. Does it have the JBL system...
1
741
It's called the K.I.S.S. preciniple ("Keep it simple, stupid!")... Takes the guesswork out of parallel/series wiring.
2
956
As for which signal to use, I tried all combinations and getting signal from the dash and front & rear doors is the only way the system sounded...
15
2K

About this thread

Savackz

CarAudio.com Elite
Thread starter
Savackz
Joined
Location
GA
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
28
Views
1,380
Last reply date
Last reply from
Jeffdachef
20240518_170822.jpg

Dylan27

    May 18, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
20240517_190901.jpg

Dylan27

    May 18, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top