phone line outputs?

Hey all... I was wondering if anyone know what each wires purpose is in a typical phone line? This is being used for a pretty complex wiring schematic so the most detail would be great. Thanks a lot.
Ah, this is somthing I will know about. A typical phone line aka "pots line" uses 2 wires aka "a pair" each pair is twisted together to keep multiple pr from bleeding over one another in a binder (25 prs) There is a color code that helps you indicate what line is what in a large cable, If you want me to list it I can. As far as the phone line at your house or what not it will go to a Network Interface (phone box usually on the side of the house) Each number in that box will have its own terminal block with a test plug (test plug looks like a jack plug with a mounting cord pluged in) The colors in the network interface that will have dial tone on it will be Red and Green for the most part. The colors in the jack will also be red and green which signifies line 1 you will also notice yellow an black which would be line 2 if you are going to run multiple lines through one outlet. The Red/Green and Yellow/Black is an older color code only used for inside type wiring. Some of the inside wire you can buy today has the new color code which resembles the color code inside the telephone cables. I hope I didnt lose you, ask else you wish. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Phoneman, you da man! :thumbsup
Phoneman, how much would it be for a T1 or T3 line in a house, you know?
Not sure what the cost would be on a T1 or a T3 since I only work on the stuff and not sell it. I have never seen a T1 or T3 at a residential house, Only at buisnesses. I asked that question once and I was told "more than you could afford" Besides with DSL and other types of broadband why would a personal computer at your house need a T line, its just not logical.

Oh and I am on dial-up 28.8 since I live way out of town which really sucks.

 
There really is no standard Price on T-1s and other Circuits... If you really had to have an estimate a T-1 would prolly run you about 1600 a month for a single T-1.... Which for a home user or a samll business its really not worth it... Just like phoneman said...

A T-1=about 1.54 Mbps for about 1600 a month, plus you'd need a CSU/DSU and a router like a 2621 or somehting to terminate it on... Which would run you a few grand...

A cable modem you can get for like 40 or less a month and have 2-3MB down and a meg or so up....

 
Phoneman, you know any good sites that have diagrams of how actual phone systems work?

Like from the house to the pole, to the PED or whatever the small boxes are in the neighborhoods are, then to the POP, then to whatever they call the phone companys core network???

I have been building cable modem networs from the inside all the way out to the customer for years and I know that well, but I have always been curious about all the parts and things that make a phone system work...

What Company do you work for??? What do you actually do in a days work??? If ya don't mind... I'll tell ya about mine if ya wanna know....

 
Phoneman, you know any good sites that have diagrams of how actual phone systems work?
Like from the house to the pole, to the PED or whatever the small boxes are in the neighborhoods are, then to the POP, then to whatever they call the phone companys core network???

I have been building cable modem networs from the inside all the way out to the customer for years and I know that well, but I have always been curious about all the parts and things that make a phone system work...

What Company do you work for??? What do you actually do in a days work??? If ya don't mind... I'll tell ya about mine if ya wanna know....
I work for SBC (southwestern bell telephone) as a Instalation and Repair technician. A phone line is just 2 conductors that come from our central office to the house, some areas are fed by remote switching stations like a Pair Gain hut which are fed by fiber or T-lines then goes on copper from there. If a phone line is over 15,000 foot from the switching stration then it is usually loaded with load coils at the first 3000foot and 1 every 6000 foot from there. If a person is on a copper line that is fed from the central office and is more then about 5 miles away then thay have a range extender put on their line in the office. As far as from the house to the pole/ped it is very simple. The house will have a network interface if it is up to date that is also referd to as a Dmarc, Protector, SNI or just a simple phone box. That is the point were the telephone companies facilities end and were the customers begins. From that network interface it is fed by a drop wire either arial or buried to the nearest buried ped or arial closure. The drop wire may be anywere from an old 1 pr drop to a newer 6 pr. If it is a buried drop then usually it will be filled with jelly and have a metal inner sheith for bonding purposes. In the ped or airial closure the 1 pr in the drop wire is connected to the proper pr in the cable. usually on a terminal block. The cable could be anywhere from a small 11pr cable to a large 1800-2400 pr cable.

I mainly repair lines for buisnesses and residents. When they call in a report I then will recieve a ticket on it and go isolate the problem. Phone lines are real sensitive to resistant faults. I will usually go to the house first and test it from the network interface and determine if it is inside the customers wire or in our cable and determine what type of trouble it is (short, ground, cross, open, hi-joint, split, unbalence and so on). I then will start to isolate the problem by usually going half the distance to the central office or a junction box inbetween. I have run trouble in the cable on phone lines that were 20miles long, so isolating a small resistive fault on a 20mile phone line can be time consumeing. Sometimes I have to climb a pole but since the area of the state I work most everything is buried. When I do instalation I just hook up and install everything that is needed and required for a phone.

Every thing in a cable is color coded by Pairs, binders and super binders.

 
Wow... SWeet.. Pretty interesting stuff.. I guess it comes down to me having to know what wire in the phone line does what? Will a simple multimeter show a sort of voltage/resistance? I have read that it is going to be a 90v AC reading? Furthermore, out of those wires, which will go HIGH or LOW when theres an incoming call? I suppose ill wait on my questions until I understand a little bit more (by reading what you have to say). Thanks a lot for the response, this is really helping me out!

-Matt

 
Wow... SWeet.. Pretty interesting stuff.. I guess it comes down to me having to know what wire in the phone line does what? Will a simple multimeter show a sort of voltage/resistance? I have read that it is going to be a 90v AC reading? Furthermore, out of those wires, which will go HIGH or LOW when theres an incoming call? I suppose ill wait on my questions until I understand a little bit more (by reading what you have to say). Thanks a lot for the response, this is really helping me out!
-Matt
A basic phone line uses 2 conductors called a Tip (-) side and a Ring (+) side. It will carry anywhere from -48v DC to -52v DC depending on the central office it is comming from. Ringing voltage will have 105v AC while the phone is ringing. Polarity used to be an issue with the old party lines and older offices but polarity isnt an issue anymore, which means if you accidentally reverse the polarity on your phone line it will still work the same. You should be able to see voltage on a multimeter, I use a Tempo Side-Kick pro meter that has several different functions and is more sensitive then a basic multimeter.

What are you doing and I can better help you out?

 
well to start, im simply building an LED "in-use indicator", you can see the schematic here..

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/page12.htm#inuse.gif

So Basically I needed to tap into the poss. and neg. of the phone line. That comes to another question, is there anyway to get those wires bare without damaging them or the existing phone cord? I've seen single "snap-on" things for single wires, but i would imagine they make one for telephone wires? I guess thats all for now, talk to ya in a little.

 
well to start, im simply building an LED "in-use indicator", you can see the schematic here..
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/page12.htm#inuse.gif

So Basically I needed to tap into the poss. and neg. of the phone line. That comes to another question, is there anyway to get those wires bare without damaging them or the existing phone cord? I've seen single "snap-on" things for single wires, but i would imagine they make one for telephone wires? I guess thats all for now, talk to ya in a little.
Probably would be better off getting some phone wire and hard wiring it in the back of the jack. Why do you want the indicator? Alot of phones have an indicator on the phone.

There are snap-on conectors for phone wires that allow you to bridge or halftap the line. But I wouldnt use the on a cord ar any thin multistrand. Best to stick with solid copper core type phonw wire.

 
I work for SBC (southwestern bell telephone) as a Instalation and Repair technician. A phone line is just 2 conductors that come from our central office to the house, some areas are fed by remote switching stations like a Pair Gain hut which are fed by fiber or T-lines then goes on copper from there. If a phone line is over 15,000 foot from the switching stration then it is usually loaded with load coils at the first 3000foot and 1 every 6000 foot from there. If a person is on a copper line that is fed from the central office and is more then about 5 miles away then thay have a range extender put on their line in the office. As far as from the house to the pole/ped it is very simple. The house will have a network interface if it is up to date that is also referd to as a Dmarc, Protector, SNI or just a simple phone box. That is the point were the telephone companies facilities end and were the customers begins. From that network interface it is fed by a drop wire either arial or buried to the nearest buried ped or arial closure. The drop wire may be anywere from an old 1 pr drop to a newer 6 pr. If it is a buried drop then usually it will be filled with jelly and have a metal inner sheith for bonding purposes. In the ped or airial closure the 1 pr in the drop wire is connected to the proper pr in the cable. usually on a terminal block. The cable could be anywhere from a small 11pr cable to a large 1800-2400 pr cable.
I mainly repair lines for buisnesses and residents. When they call in a report I then will recieve a ticket on it and go isolate the problem. Phone lines are real sensitive to resistant faults. I will usually go to the house first and test it from the network interface and determine if it is inside the customers wire or in our cable and determine what type of trouble it is (short, ground, cross, open, hi-joint, split, unbalence and so on). I then will start to isolate the problem by usually going half the distance to the central office or a junction box inbetween. I have run trouble in the cable on phone lines that were 20miles long, so isolating a small resistive fault on a 20mile phone line can be time consumeing. Sometimes I have to climb a pole but since the area of the state I work most everything is buried. When I do instalation I just hook up and install everything that is needed and required for a phone.

Every thing in a cable is color coded by Pairs, binders and super binders.
So when you looking at one of those boxes with all the phone lines are in them; about how many are there??? How do you know whos is whos?

Also, say a house has never had a phone line (has no copper to it) and wants one, do you run a line from the houses De-mark spot all the way back to the Central office? Or where...

 
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