Peel And Seal

Ant, from SecondSkin has the breakdown on this topic--

If I remember what he wrote, it goes something like this--

Peal and Seal & Dynamat are virtually the same product with one very important exception_

Dynamat can withstand temps up to 300 deg. F

Peal and Seal can withstand temps up to about 140 deg F (if that)

This means that after this temp is reached the asphalt compound turns to molten sludge and falls off!

Temperatures in hot dry climates can reach around 150 deg. in the trunk of a car or the door panels.

So if you live in an area where it doesnt get super hot even in the summer, then Peal n Seal probably will work for you without incident.

But if you live in Sunny California like I do, or in Blazing hot AZ like Ant. does, then Peal n Seal will be a risky product to have installed.

One more thing, the other products, like Second Skin, Raammat, Fatmat, and Thunder Audio's sound deadener are all about the same in that their heat resistance is somewhere in the 225-250 deg F. range which is plenty good for even the hottest of climates. The reason these brands cannot approach Dynamat's ultra-high temp resistance is because Dynamat patented the exact chemical proportions in their asphalt mixture.

Ant gets the credit for this one-I think it makes a lot of sense. Hope that helps

 
use a little common sense. Some one who if i'm not mistaken owns his own sound deading company would want you using a product that is significanty cheaper than his. he would of course say dynamat works and peal and seal is a waste of time so you would choose dynamat and then look at his cheaper alternative to dynamat. I'm not going to say peal and seal works or that it doesn't work since i havent tried it yet. but i will point out what should be obvious that you can't listen to ant on this topic because his word would be biased. but i can say that i saw in Car Audio and Electronics that this roofer sealed and sounddeadened his civic completely with roofing materials and it stopped the rattles from 2 18" punch hx2's hitting a 150db, so believe what side you want. and as far as temp goes, think about how hot it gets on the roof of a house? if the glue can take that for many years it should take the temps in the guts of a car

 
use a little common sense. Some one who if i'm not mistaken owns his own sound deading company would want you using a product that is significanty cheaper than his. he would of course say dynamat works and peal and seal is a waste of time so you would choose dynamat and then look at his cheaper alternative to dynamat. I'm not going to say peal and seal works or that it doesn't work since i havent tried it yet. but i will point out what should be obvious that you can't listen to ant on this topic because his word would be biased. but i can say that i saw in Car Audio and Electronics that this roofer sealed and sounddeadened his civic completely with roofing materials and it stopped the rattles from 2 18" punch hx2's hitting a 150db, so believe what side you want. and as far as temp goes, think about how hot it gets on the roof of a house? if the glue can take that for many years it should take the temps in the guts of a car

true

common sence myay lead you to think that I have my own financial interest at heart, but a simple search would reviel otherwise.

peel and seal works for some peopl and not for others. The amount of business MFM take away from second skin is not noticable.

What gets me is when peopl use it and claim it is the exact same thing with no evidence or specifications to back it up.

a porsche 911 and a Hyundai Tiburon would look the same to someone from another planet but there might be a little bit of difference in the specs of each.

For those of us in the industry that deal with these products day in and out, we know what we are talking about. a heat tollerance of 150 vs a 300 tollerance is quite a big jump. a mighty big risk to take when failure can mean new upholstery in a new car. Not a risk I suggest making. HOWEVER!!!! if you live in a colder climate then you will most likely never have a problem with P&S.

I have seen roofing products fail too many times to not say somthing to my fellow forum members. I will never suggest not to purchase anyones product, only state the facts. facts based on specifications and experience.

I would hopethat fi I were on the forums looking for a new sub, that the rep or owner of a subwoofer company would explain the difference between a quality sub woofer and a flee market sub with out pushing his own products.

this is what I do.

ANT

 
I much prefer something like Second Skin/other ''name brand'' products because it really doesn't smell all that much. But I still do use Peel and Seal and other alternatives because it's just so cheap.

Peel And Seal is made for roofing how the hell would roofing equipment melt...
Exactly ...

- Steve

 
Peel and Seel is made to rest on a flat ( if not slightly inclined i.e. pitched roof) surface. When I said "melt" I was using the term facetiously. To put it more bluntly, Peel n Seel gets soft and more malleable under hot weather temperatures- which may cause it to lose its adherence to vertical or upside down surfaces. As for roofing products and their resistence to heat, ever been on a tar and gravel roof in the summertime?

So, as for the common sense, Ive used mine.

The bottom line is this, if you want peel n seel, go for it. If you want something that was specifically designed for a car audio application, go for it. Maybe the results will be the same. The only way to find out is to try it. And if the Peel n Seel falls off, time to buy the other stuff.

 
I have owned dynamat extreme and I think the peel and seal did the exact same job we will see about the heat, but it is a risk I am willing to take because it will only get on my box and that does not matter.

 
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