Pairing 8 inch Sub with 15in?

What op is asking has been done and has worked. You shouldn't have phase or cancellation issues as subs should be playing different. I'll try to dig up a design bit the box had a box with an 8 and a 12 poth ported but different cuts. These were all back a few years but the biggest issue was localization of the 8 playing 100 down to 50. This was also before dsp was cheap. The guy I saw had a car that didn't have space for larger midbass up front or doors.

 
thats Hrrr, the brother of Lrrr the supreme leader of the planet omicron persei 8. "All your midbass are belong to us"
I watched 87 episodes of Futurama over last winter break //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
so, you guys know about these little ba$tards too then?? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
What op is asking has been done and has worked. You shouldn't have phase or cancellation issues as subs should be playing different. I'll try to dig up a design bit the box had a box with an 8 and a 12 poth ported but different cuts. These were all back a few years but the biggest issue was localization of the 8 playing 100 down to 50. This was also before dsp was cheap. The guy I saw had a car that didn't have space for larger midbass up front or doors.
its possible and plausible, just difficult and daunting. Its not really much different than having midbass drivers, but just more of a pita with 2 different sized subs instead of midbass drivers

 
Sound like I will look into a good set off component door speakers or something as I certainly would like to take the easier rout, I'm sure that will help solve the lack of high bass notes.

Thank you everyone for your help, I appreciate it! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fro.gif.c695f1f814b01c4ad99fe7f8cccadd29.gif

 
What op is asking has been done and has worked. You shouldn't have phase or cancellation issues as subs should be playing different. I'll try to dig up a design bit the box had a box with an 8 and a 12 poth ported but different cuts. These were all back a few years but the biggest issue was localization of the 8 playing 100 down to 50. This was also before dsp was cheap. The guy I saw had a car that didn't have space for larger midbass up front or doors.
I dont see it happening unless you got a miracle luck of the draw. or a dsp with -48 db butterworth slopes. By then its way better to just have a driver in a T line that can play 20hz to 80hz while your midbass takes care of 80hz and above.

 
Sound like I will look into a good set off component door speakers or something as I certainly would like to take the easier rout, I'm sure that will help solve the lack of high bass notes.
Thank you everyone for your help, I appreciate it! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fro.gif.c695f1f814b01c4ad99fe7f8cccadd29.gif
this is your best option. deaden the doors while youre at it, itll help a ton with response. Also, you dont have to drop a grand on a good set of comps, check parts express out and see what they have to offer. Im looking at a set of hi-vi comps myself and have had several people on here give them a good bill of health. Theyre not Dynaudios or Boston Z's anything, but they look ok

 
Personally I've had very great success using smaller subs/larger midbass drivers along with large subs. Can a 15 reproduce midbass freqs? Yes. Can normal midbass drivers play into the sub freq region? Yes. Does this mean I want either of them to do so? Nope.

I prefer running large drivers with low FS and tuned low...I prefer the non-localized HT type rumble from my subs...for the high-bass/mid-bass I prefer a larger diameter mid-bass(ei Morel 9inch, Dayton 8, JL ZR8) or a really capable 6.5 inch driver (6w3, Alchemy 6.5's). I like to keep the 'heavy lifting' of the midbass off the shoulders of the midranges....so I'll cross the midranges somewhere around 120hz and I'll run the dedicated midbass from 60hz-150hz...sub from 60hz down...midrange 120hz up.

I've run Morel 9's with TC 3k 15's, Dayton 8's with Eclipse LMS 12's, and most recently 6w3's under the front seats along with a single Audiomobile MASS 12 (see build log link below)

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/629940-jl-6w3v3-underseat-midbass-madness.html

Everyone has their preference...I like using potent midbass drivere/small subwoofers up front and crossing the sub really low.

 
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