Order my Damplifier

[Megalomaniac 5,000+ posts]

The term "standing wave" gets thown around very loosely. It's not my job to tell you that you're wrong and that you're an idiot, it's to demonstrate that it's not possible in that case. A simple wave length calculator will tell you all you need to know. And the laws of physics don't change for car audio, which is unfortunate for a lot of manufacturers of "sound deadening" products.
Only thing I'd recommend in my experience is to make the most rock-solid "proper" baffle he can to completely separate the front and back waves.

Once done it should do the trick, but possibly something like a Deflex Pad (Cascade Audio product which is often used like "Windex" or "Kleenex") for insurance purposes, I guess. In a blinded experiment, I'm not so sure he'd be able beat chance whether a diffuser pad was there or not. Just my $.02, don't read all into that and stuff. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

I understand what you are saying, i wasnt trying to defy laws of phsyics, just sayin what worked for me. than again the panel behind mid is curved so it prolly made an impact on me.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

I understand what you are saying, i was trying to defy laws of phsyics, just sayin what worked for me. than again the panel behind mid is curved so it prolly made an impact on me.

I know, I have OK......and DP behind my mids still, too. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

Once you start getting into composite matierials, predicting outcomes becomes very difficult. But, you can still do it. Key is, you have to nail down which acoustic phenomenon you're trying to work with. Once a discussion begins, semantics and word choice becomes critical. There is overlap, obviously so personal experimentation is very valuable.

I've maintained that you have to use the right tool for the job. Going around hitting everything with a hammer (CLD mats) is not intelligent, and when that hammer doesn't do the job....getting a bigger hammer (multi-layering CLD mats everyfvckingwhere) is silly and, often times, more time-consuming and expensive.

 

[Megalomaniac 5,000+ posts]

I know, I have OK......and DP behind my mids still, too. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif
Once you start getting into composite matierials, predicting outcomes becomes very difficult. But, you can still do it. Key is, you have to nail down which acoustic phenomenon you're trying to work with. Once a discussion begins, semantics and word choice becomes critical. There is overlap, obviously so personal experimentation is very valuable.

I've maintained that you have to use the right tool for the job. Going around hitting everything with a hammer (CLD mats) is not intelligent, and when that hammer doesn't do the job....getting a bigger hammer (multi-layering CLD mats everyfvckingwhere) is silly and, often times, more time-consuming and expensive.

doing a proper deadening job is time consuming and expensive unfortunately. Care to add anything else to my advice on the road noise control? I wonder if the Vertex b-pad is more suited for the job than SS products, I hear plenty of good things from them..

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

doing a proper deadening job is time consuming and expensive unfortunately.

You'd have to define that for yourself, really. Proper, in my eyes, is combating all intrusive noise into a MOVING car. There's a whole world outside structural damping and, to me, this is where the REAL results and satisfaction lie. To the avg dude on with a moderately-budgeted sound system, I can see how damping is a good front line defense.

Rant...

There are some people that believe and promote anything beyond damping to be "extra" or "high tech" but they simply don't understand the proper roll of different materials in the whole scheme of things. And to suggest anything beyond structural damping mat as such is completely asinine!

/rant

Care to add anything else to my advice on the road noise control? I wonder if the Vertex b-pad is more suited for the job than SS products, I hear plenty of good things from them..

You're suggestions are justified, In my view. We'll just say that a damped decoupled barrier (mat + decoupler + mass layer) is worth -20 dB in the road noise/engine/exhaust frequency band centered around 200 hz or so. You could do this on all surfaces of you car or on the areas you can afford. More is not better, smarter application on the areas most needed is better, IME.
VBP is a decoupled barrier composite that will get you -16 dB at 200 hz. Add a damping layer underneath it and you might get to -20 dB. Thing to remember that damping is temperature dependent more than anything, and blocking is frequency dependent more than anything. In other words, no product is truly universal/broad-band...no matter who's trying to sell you what.

Full disclosure: Vertex products are no longer for sale. I'm just an amateur dumbass trying to make my car quieter just like anyone else. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[mackin 10+ year member]

lol this conversation got over my head. I'm not really making a huge goal to end road noise, i just assumed i would have a little left over and thought maybe it would help if i threw some down on the rear doors. sounds like i'd be better off with an absolutely full covering or doubling up. valuable information though if i decide later on to eliminate road noise altogether

thanks guys

 

[bigbangtheory 5,000+ posts]

lol this conversation got over my head. I'm not really making a huge goal to end road noise, i just assumed i would have a little left over and thought maybe it would help if i threw some down on the rear doors. sounds like i'd be better off with an absolutely full covering or doubling up. valuable information though if i decide later on to eliminate road noise altogether
thanks guys

Yeah, those guys know what they are talking about though. Full of info, but don't really need to do all of that.

I say if you have some extra laying around, then yeah, do the rear doors. I need to get doing my doors too. Just make sure you lay some serious time aside to do them.

Took me days to do my trunk. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[jer_stud56 10+ year member]

Well i went ahead and ordered 80 sq ft of damplifier today so i can get that done before i order my actual equipment.
I'm not sure how much i'll need for the trunk and the front doors. If i have extra, should i just do the back doors for fun? will that help with road noise etc?

edit: the title is supposed to say ORDERED my damplifier lol. its 12:30am give me a break..

You can change your title name by going to edit/advanced and changing the title then saving.

Thanks for all the info in here guys it will definitely help me out with my next car. Bookmarked.

 

[Anthony Collova 10+ year member]

so did you order the Damplifier?

whatcha think?

ANT