Optima: Yellow vs. Red

[99grandprixGT 5,000+ posts]

Kinetik makes a Side Post Adapter that adds side posts to their top post batts. MSRP is like $20.

hmm looks like i have a plan B if the optima fails.

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

hmm looks like i have a plan B if the optima fails.

Here is a LINK for $23.

 

[reclessantics 10+ year member]

How often does your front batt have to deep cycle?

I realize im new, but i didn't think any batteries every fully drained, i thought only stressed a little, but never fully drained.

btw should i just get a d3100 and h/o alt, and when i get more flow, get the second d3100 for the back? and just solve the whole problem of optima. (not that its a big issue) (id just rather wait a little longer, save more, and be happier in the end)

 

[reclessantics 10+ year member]

I Think im going to run my set up in stages.

first i want to upgrade my electrical. new alt (mechman 250a alt - built in adjustable voltage) and PM d3100

then first stage of subs = 1 hdc3 15 copper coil on an AQ2200 @ 1 ohm.

then get that second batt (another PM d3100 near amps)

and then get another hdc3 15 on an AQ2200.

Does that sound like it would be compatible?

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

a battery gets drained or used by the system its part of a cycle....a thin plate low capacity battery can get drained pretty quick especially if its not meant to be cycled. The smaller the battery the less lead the faster the lead can be depleted and ruin the battery. Most of the time its not a few minutes of play time but an accumilation of play time where the battery doesnt get fully charged and slowly drains until its low

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

It is easy to go beyond the 50% of full charge on a smaller battery when you are pulling thousands of watts of power. I am not 100% sure what voltage that would be on a Red top, but I would assume that it would be in the 10.5v range. Once you drain it past there, good luck bringing it back to 100%. Do that more than once, and it is most likely 100% shot.

The plates get corroded very quickly in a drained battery. If you are lucky enough to catch it and get a charge back on it, you might be OK with the first deep cycle. Just know that you probably lost a signifiant amount of your lead. It is now lying in the bottom of your battery in the form of lead sulfate. Once that lead sulfate builds up to the point where it covers your plates, you will have very diminished output. Not to mention that if you get to that point with a thin plate battery, you probably don't have much plates to cover anyways.

Good luck fitting a G31 under the hood of that car. You will need to modify the battery tray significantly to shoe horn that big boy in there. You are better off with a battery that fits and then the bigger one in the back. Or, like I said before, just isolate it and forget about it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[roarzorz 10+ year member]

Redtops will work fine for car audio use when used properly. There isn't any need to discharge a redtop even if it's used in the back primarily for car audio. If for some reason your battery is discharging then you need a bigger alternator to keep up with the current demand instead of putting too much load on your batteries.

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

Redtops will work fine for car audio use when used properly. There isn't any need to discharge a redtop even if it's used in the back primarily for car audio. If for some reason your battery is discharging then you need a bigger alternator to keep up with the current demand instead of putting too much load on your batteries.

You don't seem to get it. They are not designed for car audio use, why would you do it? It would be like using computer ribbon cables to connect your speakers. Would it work? Possibly, but why the hell would you do it? Why would you use a battery that is not designed to power car audio when there are so many others that are designed for audio? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[reclessantics 10+ year member]

lol yeah i know id like to try to fit one under the hood but yeah it looks a little doubtful. What smaller batt would i go with?

btw, would a 250amp alt keep up with something pretty decent under the hood, and a d3100 in the back?

jw, would it be best to get a powermaster for the front under hood? It would be closest to the d3100, just smaller.

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

lol yeah i know id like to try to fit one under the hood but yeah it looks a little doubtful. What smaller batt would i go with?
btw, would a 250amp alt keep up with something pretty decent under the hood, and a d3100 in the back?

jw, would it be best to get a powermaster for the front under hood? It would be closest to the d3100, just smaller.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/iagree.gif.15d6c075ee8d3913ba26866d06993068.gif

That would be much better than your current setup.

 

[reclessantics 10+ year member]

Which other PM should i put under there? I guess i want to put the biggest one that I can fit (reasonably) so that I don't have to upgrade under the hood batt later, ill just add more in the back by the amps

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

The S925 with the 527 mounting kit should be a direct fit. You could possibly fit up to a group 24 with mods to the tray.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

Redtops will work fine for car audio use when used properly. There isn't any need to discharge a redtop even if it's used in the back primarily for car audio. If for some reason your battery is discharging then you need a bigger alternator to keep up with the current demand instead of putting too much load on your batteries.

Funny thing is back in the day when we had parking lot gatherings of about 30-50 cars all who used to say the same thing, a few would have dead batteries by about 9:30 lol. If you have a large system 3-4k watts an alt that puts out 100-150 amps at idle isn't going to cut it..also most people i know who actually like how a system sounds like to hear it from time to time without hearing road noise or engine noise..A proper electrical system for a system should be put together for a variety of situations the user might need even if it is something he/she might not think they will need. Granted the person who only listens to their system while driving might need less it still should be up to par. Most of the time when someone nukes an amp its a power issue.

 

[reclessantics 10+ year member]

yeah id like to go as big as i can under the hood

 

[reclessantics 10+ year member]

btw is there like a ball park "range"

say "x" crankin amps per "x" watts?

and "x" amp H/O alt, to handle "x" batteries/batt cca?