Optima: Yellow vs. Red

car toys strikes again. tried to return my yellow top, but they refused claiming i voided the warranty.
why would they have a reverse terminal yt if its not for under the hood? Even the site says "automotive use" that includes audio...the red top has the stipulation of no audio use.

 
why would they have a reverse terminal yt if its not for under the hood? Even the site says "automotive use" that includes audio...the red top has the stipulation of no audio use.
i got it from car toys on special, and that's what they told me. i didn't buy it from optima directly.

 
would it just depend on the set up your running?

i want to run a powermaster d3100 in the back by the amps.

and ill have a mechman 250a h/o alt.

personally (with my lack of knowledge) i see the red top as a better battery.

Wouldn't reserve time be specifically for applications that won't constantly be charging.. like bumpin with the car off?

Reserve time shouldn't be an issue if im never going to play without the car being on.

 
OP, are you planning on isolating the front battery from the rears? If so, I would go for a Redtop. If you are not going to isolate, then go with a Yellowtop, or another Powermaster to match the D3100. The reason I asked about the isolation is that you never want to deep cycle that Redtop. If you do not isolate the Redtop and you deep cycle one time, you could end up with a dead Redtop and have no warranty. Optima specifically states that there are no warranties for a Redtop used for car audio. If it is not isolated, it is technically still powering car audio.

Forgive the kindergarten level photoshop drawings below. The little gray pods on the wires represent where you may need to fuse, depending on the length of the wires.

Sample 1 (with isolator + Red top)

sample1.jpg


Sample 2 (with PM D2400)

sample2.jpg


 
I know my local shop went from using yellow to red tops. They said the red tops are better. Hell, I even remember a guy buying 5 for a setup he had and it was nasty.
Just because someone has done it before, does not mean it is the best way to do it. I know plenty of people who run Boss, Pyle, Funky Pups, or whatever, but that does not mean I am going to buy them.

If you only knew how batteries were made, you would not reccomend a red for anything other than starting. One deep cycle and they are toast. Yellows are not much better. About 10 deep cycles and they are shot. You are much better off with a thicker plate design like the Kinetik/PM/NSB/Deka/etc.

 
I had a red top back in 97 at IASCA finals and it died. Only battery under in the car I went back to batteries plus and they looked at my car and said "oh hell no" to a warranty. Pissed me off as I feel it cost me a top 5 at finals that year as that is where I ALWAYS finished with that pack.

 
there was a sign in my mechanics office that was an optima sign, and said red for car and yellow for car audio/accesories. not sure why but thats what the optima poster said

 
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