Opinions needed: Kicker Cxa1200 vs JL RD1500/1

[Ezzy4Vibes]

Hey I'm new to the forums. A bit new to car audio but this is not my first system. My goal is overall sound quality but also deep, hard hitting bass.

Here is my current setup thus far but need to figure out the amp:

Kenwood Excelon head unit 709s
Kenwood Excelon speakers
(Dual) Kicker 44CVX124 750 RMS, 2 ohm wired
Dual 12" ported box
1.5 F power capacitor

So basically this is my question: since I'm running 2 750 RMS subs, will the JL 1500w amp give me much benefit over the Kicker 1200w?

It's only a difference of 300w but I'm also looking for the best quality of bass that hits the hardest. What are your opinions?

The sound shop I'm using says the kicker is plenty which I don't doubt but I also wonder if the JL would better suit the subs I have since I won't be underpowering them.

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[HardofWhoring]

No, the kicker is underpowered. In fact, personally, the JL is underpowered too. I'm running two kicker slims that are 600w RMS, and 1200w max. I first ran them at 600, then 700 and noticed an improvement. Then 800 and it got better. Now I'm up to 900 each, and I felt the difference each time. I'm good with where they are. If you're going to put less power in to em, then you decide that when it's setup and you're listening to it, not before you even buy equipment. Build it up so it can do what it's supposed to.. THEN if you decide to turn it down, you have that option.

Personally, I'd be shooting for closer to 900-1000W to em if you want everything out of em. 1500w -2000w RMS is what I would look for.
You then use this to dial em in to just what you want:


I like JL. I have and use JL, but with JL you are paying for a name. You are going to get really close to rated power, but will have a solid amp. If you go 1500 your stuck. If you find something 2000w you have a little bit more room.

 

[Ezzy4Vibes]

No, the kicker is underpowered. In fact, personally, the JL is underpowered too. I'm running two kicker slims that are 600w RMS, and 1200w max. I first ran them at 600, then 700 and noticed an improvement. Then 800 and it got better. Now I'm up to 900 each, and I felt the difference each time. I'm good with where they are. If you're going to put less power in to em, then you decide that when it's setup and you're listening to it, not before you even buy equipment. Build it up so it can do what it's supposed to.. THEN if you decide to turn it down, you have that option.

Personally, I'd be shooting for closer to 900-1000W to em if you want everything out of em. 1500w -2000w RMS is what I would look for.
You then use this to dial em in to just what you want:


I like JL. I have and use JL, but with JL you are paying for a name. You are going to get really close to rated power, but will have a solid amp. If you go 1500 your stuck. If you find something 2000w you have a little bit more room.

Gotcha, thank you so much for your input! I'll go ahead and look for 1500+, Kicker makes that 1800w that is cheaper than the JL. So I'll consider it.
My sound shop is reputable but they are stuck on that cxa 1200 and I thought it was a bit strange since my subs are rated above it's output.
But yes I do agree it's probably best to at least match RMS or have headroom above it then adjust settings as necessary.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

I don’t disagree with having more than rated power to subs but keep in mind about your electrical being up to the task. I have a JL RD400/4 and love the sound. I like how you can tune it with the clip light which makes it perfect for the less experienced. I would expect the 1500 to do about 20% more than rated (based on dyno’s of the RD series) which puts you around 1800 although you won’t hear a difference. If money is no concern, I’d pick JL all day over Kicker.

 

[HardofWhoring]

If money is no concern, I’d pick JL all day over Kicker.

Yeah, but I wouldn't buy either one. There's more than those two amps that will work.

 

[Ezzy4Vibes]

I don’t disagree with having more than rated power to subs but keep in mind about your electrical being up to the task. I have a JL RD400/4 and love the sound. I like how you can tune it with the clip light which makes it perfect for the less experienced. I would expect the 1500 to do about 20% more than rated (based on dyno’s of the RD series) which puts you around 1800 although you won’t hear a difference. If money is no concern, I’d pick JL all day over Kicker.

Understood. Hopefully my alternator can keep up, it is 130A I believe. I'll use appropriate wiring to the system and a power capacitor. Since I'm going this far money isn't really a limiting factor (which is dangerous when things cost a lot lol).

 

[Ezzy4Vibes]

Ok so I called the sound shop and they have a Diamond 1600 RMS at 1 ohm.

My subs are 4 ohm so I assume I could run them at 1 ohm if wired properly? Unfortunately they didn't seem to mention this so

 

[HardofWhoring]

Ok so I called the sound shop and they have a Diamond 1600 RMS at 1 ohm.

My subs are 4 ohm so I assume I could run them at 1 ohm if wired properly? Unfortunately they didn't seem to mention this so

You know, there is this thing called the internet.


What is another option, is to search for different amps that you might like. If you find something, anything semi-name brand will have a webpage. From there you can find authorized dealers and installers if that's something you need. Unless this is your uncle's stereo shop, there are plenty of em out there. (and IMO, they have already given you bad advice once to make sale).

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Stinger Audio MT-2000.1 2,000 Watt (RMS) Class D Monoblock Car Audio Amplifier

Shop 2000W Class D Monoblock Amplifiers for your car today! With a sleek and compact design, this amplifier can easily fit into any car audio setup.

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Buy it. You won't be disappointed

 

[Ezzy4Vibes]

You know, there is this thing called the internet.


What is another option, is to search for different amps that you might like. If you find something, anything semi-name brand will have a webpage. From there you can find authorized dealers and installers if that's something you need. Unless this is your uncle's stereo shop, there are plenty of em out there. (and IMO, they have already given you bad advice once to make sale).

Fair enough. They are being considerate, which they should for what we pay to do all this. Regardless I should research a bit more.
To answer my own question it seems that it's possible to wire 2 4 ohm dvc subs to 1 ohm final load, just connect all positive and all negatives together.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

Yes, 2 D4 subs will wire to 1 ohm. There are lots of options out there. Yes JL is pricey but you’re at least getting something different than a cookie cutter Korean or Chinese amp. I much prefer the sound of my RD400/4 compared to my Pioneer 8604 and Zapco ST.

Incriminator Audio amps are rock solid and take some abuse.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

As far as I am aware of... JL Audio does not make a 1 ohm mono stable amplifier. The only one close to a 1 ohm load that I can think of is the 1200.1 HD that is 1.5 ohm stable up to 4. Find a decent 1500.1-2k Class D 1ohm stable mono amplifier for the sub stage. Plenty of amps to choose from out there. Ive been enjoying one of my CT Sounds CT2ks a and the CT 150.4 for quite a while, Some to look at among others on the market.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

As far as I am aware of... JL Audio does not make a 1 ohm mono stable amplifier. The only one close to a 1 ohm load that I can think of is the 1200.1 HD that is 1.5 ohm stable up to 4. Find a decent 1500.1-2k Class D 1ohm stable mono amplifier for the sub stage. Plenty of amps to choose from out there. Ive been enjoying one of my CT Sounds CT2ks a and the CT 150.4 for quite a while, Some to look at among others on the market.

I stand corrected>>> The RD series is 1ohm stable. Ill be dammned

JL Audio RD1500/1

Mono subwoofer amplifier — 1,500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

www.crutchfield.com

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

As far as I am aware of... JL Audio does not make a 1 ohm mono stable amplifier. The only one close to a 1 ohm load that I can think of is the 1200.1 HD that is 1.5 ohm stable up to 4. Find a decent 1500.1-2k Class D 1ohm stable mono amplifier for the sub stage. Plenty of amps to choose from out there. Ive been enjoying one of my CT Sounds CT2ks a and the CT 150.4 for quite a while, Some to look at among others on the market.

JL RD1500.1 does rated power @1 or 2 ohms, Does 1800 to 1900 watts in tests I've seen..
Designed buy a guy who designed old school PPI and Xtant amps.. Good stuff.