Opinions / Advice on Wiring Components

[takeahiketours]

Hi guys, 2006 Corvette Coup. Already ordered my equipment so really hoping for any install or wiring advice but here's my plan:

Hertz HCP 4D amp powring 2 front Hertz HSK-165.4 6.5" 250W max Component speakers.

Hertz HCP 1D amp powering 1 Hertz ESF 25.5 Energy 10" Slim 900W max Subwoofer in shallow box.

Kenwood DDX9903S head unit powering 2 rear Hertz DCX 130.3 5.25" 80W max coaxials.

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[garychoffmann 10+ year member]

What advice are you looking for? How to wire? What to get? Active/passive for the components?

 

[takeahiketours]

What advice are you looking for? How to wire? What to get? Active/passive for the components?

How to direct power to speakers - for example run the deck to the rears and keep them at low volume for fill and go with all power from the 4 channel amp to the HSK's or split the amps power to front and rear. I read that the HCP 4D is 290W x 2 Channels or 85 x 4 both at 4 ohms, is that correct? I thought it would just double if switching to 2 channels, where does the extra power come from? Thanks!

 

[takeahiketours]

The front speakers are 125W RMS and rears 40W RMS and sub 300W RMS so I want to make sure I'm doing the most efficient power distribution. Obviously I'll use the mono amp for the sub, but not sure about the best way to direct power from the deck and 4-channel amp.

 

[takeahiketours]

It would be nice if I could put 20% of the amp's power to the rears and 80% to the fronts but I don't of any way to do that, is it possible?

 

[honkyg 10+ year member]

ohh boy,.. front tweeters are 3.5's and door mids are 8 inch,.. you're going to need some downsizing baffles and the stock door drivers are extremely shallow, which may not allow the door cavity clearance needed for aftermarket drivers.

rear panels are an extreme pain in the 'a' to remove, and you need to find a very good support for the rear hatch that wont move or get kicked while you crawl around as you need to remove the shock support.

personally, i wouldnt even use the rears, but if you are adamant, i would power them off the rear head unit channels to have fader control, additionally, the bose system drivers for front and rear are wired in parallel with no fader capability, so you'd need to be careful integrating aftermarket with stock wiring if you do have the bose.

as for the 4 channel amp, i absolutely believe you will have a much better result with superior control wiring the front components active using the amplifier's on-board crossovers, meaning 2 rear channels on mid/bass with bandpass, two front channels on the tweeters with high pass,.. then blending the sub low pass crossover point with the lower bandpass point.

 

[takeahiketours]

ohh boy,.. front tweeters are 3.5's and door mids are 8 inch,.. you're going to need some downsizing baffles and the stock door drivers are extremely shallow, which may not allow the door cavity clearance needed for aftermarket drivers.
rear panels are an extreme pain in the 'a' to remove, and you need to find a very good support for the rear hatch that wont move or get kicked while you crawl around as you need to remove the shock support.

personally, i wouldnt even use the rears, but if you are adamant, i would power them off the rear head unit channels to have fader control, additionally, the bose system drivers for front and rear are wired in parallel with no fader capability, so you'd need to be careful integrating aftermarket with stock wiring if you do have the bose.

as for the 4 channel amp, i absolutely believe you will have a much better result with superior control wiring the front components active using the amplifier's on-board crossovers, meaning 2 rear channels on mid/bass with bandpass, two front channels on the tweeters with high pass,.. then blending the sub low pass crossover point with the lower bandpass point.

Thank you very much! I have the baffles from a guy on Corvette forum who custom makes them for the front doors.

I have the rear panels off - toughest part is the fastener pins, they all broke on the way out so then I found there's a tool. It comes with the multi fastener packs on Amazon I bought to replace the broken ones. It's like a v-shaped piece of metal at end of a 10" metal rod that gets them right out. Also there's one large fastener that busted the inside of the holder on the trim piece, but I was able to put it right back on with epoxy, no one will ever know. No damage occured to any visible parts.

To hold up the hatch, I used a piece of rope tied to the latch and tied to a pipe on the roof of the garage, no issues with that set up. It stayed just fine and only took a minute. If you don't have anything above to tie off to, I could see it being a big problem.

I have the base model so no Bose and no Bose issues.

Keeping my fingers crossed that there's clearance in the door for the drivers - that would be a bummer if there's not.

I'm going to try your advice on the wiring for front speakers with the amp's crossovers and head unit to the rears, will let you know how it sounds, thanks again!