on stock electrical

tee
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Will running 800W (600W on L5, 200W on comps) on stock electrical be okay? I have a 97 Honda Accord. I think the alternator is ~80 amps, not sure.

If the 800W is too much for stock electrical, would 600W (400W on ID12v3, 200W on comps) be okay?

Thx.

 
I'm just wondering would I be able to get away without changing anything if I had one of those setup above.

Also, i don't know if this matters or not, but it's just more info. I already have an Alpine F450 (4ch) bridged that's giving my comps 100W each. I'm planning to get another amp (zx750.1) to either power an ID12v3 (400W) or a Kicker L5 (600W).

 
I just got a brand new battery. Not one of the good kinds like you guys use though, just a normal one from Advanced Auto Parts.

 
It is all car specific. Some cars you will get bad dimming with as little as 500 watts (my car).

Others won't get dimming with 1200. It just depends. My alt went out anyway - so I got a HO and did the big 3...and now I have no voltage problems whatsoever without any other batts.

 
Before I start with the installation, I want to get everything strait. I would run a long 4 awg wire from the battery to a distribution block right next to the amps, with a 150A fuse (50A for the Alpine F450, 80A for the Kicker zx750.1) withing a foot of the battery. Then I would run a 4 awg wire from the distribution block into zx750.1 power, and a 8 awg wire from the same distribution into the f450 power.

After the power, could I just ground the two amps separately, but onto the same grounding point? Or would I have to ground both onto a grounding blocking, then use a 4 awg wire and ground it to the chassis?

For the remote wire, I would just run 1 normally into an amp, then from that wire, just splice it and run it to the other amp right?

 
I prefere 0 awg. The bigger wire means less voltage drop in your trunk (mine stays within .09), which means less chance of noise and better power output at the amps, which can help prevent dimming.

You can find a kicker 0 awg 2 amp kit online for around $80. It'll come with everything you need to hook up both amps. I then bought a firewall grommet from partsexpress.com to create a clean hole from my engine.

 
After the power, could I just ground the two amps separately, but onto the same grounding point? Or would I have to ground both onto a grounding blocking, then use a 4 awg wire and ground it to the chassis?

For the remote wire, I would just run 1 normally into an amp, then from that wire, just splice it and run it to the other amp right?
You can ground either way. I personally do the dist block to a 0 awg ground which then connects to a streetwire grounding block.

You can run the remote wire into one amp and place another wire in the same hole to your other amp. No need to splice.

 
One more question about the fuse. Right now, I have a MAXI 50A fuse near my battery for my Alpine F450. Since I am adding the zx750.1, which has 2 x 40A = 80A, and my current Alpine has 2 x 25A = 50A, I wound need ~130A MAXI fuse now instead right? I am going to run a single 4 awg wire from the battery into a dist block.

I think the highest MAXI fuse I saw was 100A. Would 100A be enough, even I need ~130A instead? Should I just get another kind of fuse holder instead and get a ~130A fuse?

 
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