Old style XXX vs. New style XXX ???

wisconsin
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I had an older style 2003 or so RE XXX 15" smooth cone (no dust cap) dual 2ohm sub. I had it ported in 4 cubes tuned to 30hz. 1,500 watts rms powering it in a '98 oldsmobile bravada with 90 amp alternator. Lights dimmed somewhat when cranked, but voltage never dropped below 12.5.

How do the new XXX's compare? The new ones came out in 2007?? Any changes for 2008 to them? I am wondering if they sound as good, since they do not use the XBL^2 technology any more. I see that their Fs are very low i.e. 19hz or something like that.

For sound quality with some boom, I have been told to tune to 30hz if I listen to all types of music. The newer super subs will have plenty of output, so I am not worried about that. No comps for me. Only daily driving and impressing people with quality/output. I listen to a lot of rap, but appreciate all types of music.

I also have a dvd player in my truck, so deep movie bass is also appreciated. I was looking at the new HCCA's, but their f's are around 40hz or higher and I have heard that they don't have great sound quality. Soundstream XXX and Stroker Pro don't sound like they have great sound quality, either. I looked at Fi Q's, but they don't seem as impressive as my old XXX was.

I have a 2001 lincoln navigator. stock electrical system and I believe a 130 amp alternator. my current MA Audio HK2000D amp makes my lights dim a bit, but not too bad (1,500 rms @ 1 ohm), so I would like to stay in that neighborhood of power or a bit more if the electrical will handle it with some upgraded wiring. No extra batts or bigger alternators.

I can't really get to my alternator to upgrade that power wire as it is buried in the front of the motor behind stuff. I am mechanically competent, but I can't even see the stock power wire coming off of it. I believe that it actually runs under the block somewhere before coming back up to the battery. **** ford! If it were on top like a normal motor, I would have no problems upgrading wiring. I should be able to upgrade the other two wires of the BIG 3.

I have 4 gauge wiring and an 80 amp agu fuse. I have never blown it with this setup. I used to have a 2.4 farad digital cap and a 50x4 @ 4 ohm 4 channel amp hooked up as well, in the bravada, but my alpine IVA-W205 in dash dvd player is powering my 4 Infinity Kappa 6x8 coaxials with outboard crossovers (KAPPA682.9CF) in this truck. What do you think?

 
subs dont cause dimming lights...the amp does...

as for the fiQ...great subs for the price and can handle about 1250wms...great on 1000 but fi makes good stuff...

soundstream xxx arent made anymore i believe but are great subs nontheless...

orion hcca new models are junk and stroker pro's are alright.

the new re xxx are great

 
I had an older style 2003 or so RE XXX 15" smooth cone (no dust cap) dual 2ohm sub. I had it ported in 4 cubes tuned to 30hz. 1,500 watts rms powering it in a '98 oldsmobile bravada with 90 amp alternator. Lights dimmed somewhat when cranked, but voltage never dropped below 12.5.
How do the new XXX's compare? The new ones came out in 2007?? Any changes for 2008 to them? I am wondering if they sound as good, since they do not use the XBL^2 technology any more. I see that their Fs are very low i.e. 19hz or something like that.

For sound quality with some boom, I have been told to tune to 30hz for if I listen to all types of music. The newer super subs will have plenty of output, so I am not worried about that. No comps for me. Only daily driving and impressing people with quality/output. I listen to a lot of rap, but appreciate all types of music.

I also have a dvd player in my truck, so deep movie bass is also appreciated. I was looking at the new HCCA's, but their f's are around 40hz or higher and I have heard that they don't have great sound quality. Soundstream XXX and Stroker Pro don't sound like they have great sound quality, either. I looked at Fi Q's, but they don't seem as impressive as my old XXX was.

I have a 2001 lincoln navigator. stock electrical system and I believe a 130 amp alternator. my current MA Audio HK2000D amp makes my lights dim a bit, but not too bad (1,500 rms @ 1 ohm), so I would like to stay in that neighborhood of power or a bit more if the electrical will handle it with some upgraded wiring. No extra batts or bigger alternators.

I can't really get to my alternator to upgrade that power wire as it is buried in the front of the motor behind stuff. I am mechanically competent, but I can't even see the stock power wire coming off of it. I believe that it actually runs under the block somewhere before coming back up to the battery. **** ford! If it were on top like a normal motor, I would have no problems upgrading wiring. I should be able to upgrade the other two wires of the BIG 3.

I have 4 gauge wiring and an 80 amp agu fuse. I have never blown it with this setup. I used to have a 2.4 farad digital cap and a 50x4 @ 4 ohm 4 channel amp hooked up as well, in the bravada, but my alpine IVA-W205 in dash dvd player is powering my 4 Infinity Kappa 6x8 coaxials with outboard crossovers (KAPPA682.9CF) in this truck. What do you think?


Better? It is for me lol.

 
to the thread op

i feel the new xxx subs are impractical..based on there design...it has a very heavy moving mass and the basket is very long to accomidate the high peak to peak excursion...it sound nice dont get me wrong..i just think for the performance as far as sound and output...that can be had for less money and in a more practical automobile freindly frame...

based on wat u posted its obvious u like a sub that sounds good and can handle some power....well u have a list of subs that have those qualities

sundown nightshade

ia death penalty

audioque hdc3

fi q with bp option

or u can get 2 mag v3 subs

or 2 soundsplinter rlp subs

im sure theres more

80

 
I am mechanically competent, but not a paid mechanic. Trust me, this alternator isn't easy to get at. You can't even see one mounting bolt on the alternator when you stick your head down in between the radiator and engine. That to me surpasses the shade tree mechanic's spare time/money spent at dealership ratio. I am not paying for that.

Thanks for the paragraphs, but I am in a hurry, as I am working at the same time as writing. It seems as though this forum has some people on it that are not very interested in posting friendly, helpful comments. Thanks to those that gave useful advice.

Sorry if the post got long winded. I want to give a complete background so that people that are willing to suggest some suitable subs would know what else I am working with and where I am coming from.

I listened to a ported 12" XXX last night at a car audio place in their demo room off of 1,000 watts. It sounded pretty good to me, but there were air leaks around the basket that sounded like crap. I wish they would have fixed that. He then demoed a 13w7 right next to it (also ported). the 13w7 also sounded good (port noise from that enclosure), but the xxx 12 sounded deeper. Same song....maybe enclosure differences.

To Hrtbrk1 who said, "subs dont cause dimming lights...the amp does..." When did I say that subs caused dimming? I said that my last truck had a 90 amp alt. and this one has a 130. The amp is the same and obviously causes less dimming in the vehicle with a larger alt.

 
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