Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread


BanginBishi

Junior Member
Jan 6, 2015
21
0
TN
pics? id go with b and leave the stock wire where its at, as long as there's no big differences in metal between point a and b. i.e. a panel with low contact, a weld, change in pieces of metal.
when you say clamp it in there use a ring terminal closest to the body metal as you can get and sand it down well. ive seen people strip their wire and just put it under a washer, use a terminal lol
Here's the two options: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

"A" as a note is across the engine bay, next to the battery. (My alt is located on the bottom left side of the engine, woohoo)

And yes, by "clamp" I did mean sticking the terminal between the plates. Everything is a mess under there now but I'm going to take a wire brush and a grinder once I get going at it. Only issue with doing B is going to be protecting the wire. I'm, uhh, missing 80% of my underside plastics. You know of any particularly weather/erosion proof heat shrink?

 

wew lad

wew lad inc
5,000+ posts
Mar 22, 2015
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Here's the two options: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
"A" as a note is across the engine bay, next to the battery. (My alt is located on the bottom left side of the engine, woohoo)

And yes, by "clamp" I did mean sticking the terminal between the plates. Everything is a mess under there now but I'm going to take a wire brush and a grinder once I get going at it. Only issue with doing B is going to be protecting the wire. I'm, uhh, missing 80% of my underside plastics. You know of any particularly weather/erosion proof heat shrink?
the ground close to the alternator will be much better imo

while you're in there clean up your factory grounds, its a necessary thing no one does

can you use that stud you're pointing to with 'alt' as your ground?

 

BanginBishi

Junior Member
Jan 6, 2015
21
0
TN
the ground close to the alternator will be much better imo
while you're in there clean up your factory grounds, its a necessary thing no one does

can you use that stud you're pointing to with 'alt' as your ground?
Yes. I was planning on using "Alt" as the first connection. And yeah, I was gonna scrub everything down. It's already been doused in battery cleaner a couple times and I was going to go ahead and pull off the stock connection and do a little sanding under it.

 

wew lad

wew lad inc
5,000+ posts
Mar 22, 2015
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Yes. I was planning on using "Alt" as the first connection. And yeah, I was gonna scrub everything down. It's already been doused in battery cleaner a couple times and I was going to go ahead and pull off the stock connection and do a little sanding under it.
you mentioned the wire missing its casing earlier, tbh i wouldnt even use that wiring unless you're referring to stock wiring. in that case i like felt tape, seems like it holds up well. you can tape it then wire loom it

 

BanginBishi

Junior Member
Jan 6, 2015
21
0
TN
you mentioned the wire missing its casing earlier, tbh i wouldnt even use that wiring unless you're referring to stock wiring. in that case i like felt tape, seems like it holds up well. you can tape it then wire loom it
Are you talking about when I said I was missing my plastics? By "plastics" I meant all of the underside plastic on the car that protects the engine bay from spray and whatnot. Due to the ****** alternator location and the lack of plastics it's going to be really exposed to the elements. I was asking if anyone knew of some really durable heat shrink.

 

wew lad

wew lad inc
5,000+ posts
Mar 22, 2015
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Are you talking about when I said I was missing my plastics? By "plastics" I meant all of the underside plastic on the car that protects the engine bay from spray and whatnot. Due to the ****** alternator location and the lack of plastics it's going to be really exposed to the elements. I was asking if anyone knew of some really durable heat shrink.
oh i see what you're saying, regular heatshrink is fine just tape it up as well. i wouldnt run cheap cca wire under the hood at all, ofc is fine it usually has a good casing and corrosion resistance

 

BanginBishi

Junior Member
Jan 6, 2015
21
0
TN
oh i see what you're saying, regular heatshrink is fine just tape it up as well. i wouldnt run cheap cca wire under the hood at all, ofc is fine it usually has a good casing and corrosion resistance
It's 2/0 Flex-a-Prene welding cable. It has a pretty sturdy casing on it, I'm just a bit paranoid. With a run that short I should be able to get enough tape on it to ease my mind.

Those Raptor terminals I bought off of you look nice by the way. You wouldn't happen to have a box of fuse holders laying around too, would ya?

 

wew lad

wew lad inc
5,000+ posts
Mar 22, 2015
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It's 2/0 Flex-a-Prene welding cable. It has a pretty sturdy casing on it, I'm just a bit paranoid. With a run that short I should be able to get enough tape on it to ease my mind.
Those Raptor terminals I bought off of you look nice by the way. You wouldn't happen to have a box of fuse holders laying around too, would ya?
something like that you're usually better off getting on amazon. i like this type, they're usually less than $10:http://www.amazon.com/DS18-FHSANL200A-Square-Fuse-Holder/dp/B00N809Q9K/ref=pd_sim_422_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=412yYQmyxtL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1EBJC07DMFNSH7B6XMR5

 

BanginBishi

Junior Member
Jan 6, 2015
21
0
TN
something like that you're usually better off getting on amazon. i like this type, they're usually less than $10:Robot Check
Yeah, I was joking around a bit. I've got a couple of DB link holders sitting in my amazon cart right now. One vanished on me and I also miscounted a by a fuse doing my write up. I always forget something along the way. Thanks for your help man.

 

StephenS

Junior Member
Apr 11, 2011
11
0
Nashvile, TN
Would the big 3 mess with my batteries distribution block? Like could i diconnect the factory wire and slap the 0/1 on there with a terminal ring etc. and be fine? Not fry anything.. never dealt with this before..

--I read through a few of these looking for what I'm dealing with, I've got what looks to be a distribution block coming off my pos(+) battery post with about 4 or 5 different maxi fuses for each source.  Can provide pics if it helps.

2015 Nissan Titan SV,  w/ RF system

Thanks,

  Stephen

 
Last edited by a moderator:

skeptikal

Hold the wheel and drive
Premium Member
10+ year member
Jul 19, 2004
4,194
5
Indiana, US
Adding a 1/0 wire to your battery should not mess with any of your electrical @StephenS. However you should ALWAYS disconnect the battery first before trying to add anything new.

 

uluz2a6

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 8, 2019
1
0
Just curious why some installers do not remove factor wire from alternator to starter (and eventually battery) and some do.  I am preparing to do a full install on my 2013 GMC Terrain and the factory wire (fusible link) is very small.  It feeds nothing other than the starter on its path to the battery. I am planning on upgrading the alternator to a higher output and am pretty sure it will exceed the limits of the link. But if I wasn't upgrading the alternator, what are the benefits to wiring over existing harnesses?  Seems logical to upgrade and discard old harness.

 

Mike0114

CarAudio.com Newbie
Nov 6, 2019
3
0
37421
I've got a 2003 GMC Denali do I have to have the GMC interface in order for the factory amp and all the speakers to work?
 

Popwarhomie

CarAudio.com Elite VIP
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10+ year member
Jan 22, 2010
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Holy 13 year old thread revive with a post that has nothing to do with it...



Yes you do.
 
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MDH69

CarAudio.com Newbie
Dec 21, 2020
11
1
Kansas
Ive heard of some choosing to use an inline fuse from the new alternator to the battery...Is this neccessary and if so, do you choose a fuse that equals your alternators amp rating? or smaller?
 

MDH69

CarAudio.com Newbie
Dec 21, 2020
11
1
Kansas
Ive heard of some choosing to use an inline fuse from the new alternator wire direct to the battery...Is this neccessary? and if so, do you choose a fuse that equals your alternators amp rating or smaller?
 

Popwarhomie

CarAudio.com Elite VIP
5,000+ posts
10+ year member
Jan 22, 2010
9,322
1,791
FL
Ive heard of some choosing to use an inline fuse from the new alternator wire direct to the battery...Is this neccessary? and if so, do you choose a fuse that equals your alternators amp rating or smaller?
Yes. As long as your wire is rated for that amperage or higher.
 

MDH69

CarAudio.com Newbie
Dec 21, 2020
11
1
Kansas
Thank you for the response

4g ofc copper..its only a 95amp alternator...400rms for complete system..amp is fused at 50amps..radio maybe 10 15amp?..amp wire (4g ofc) ran under 10ft so its good for 120amps at its limit.
 
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Rrosario

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jan 1, 2021
12
0
Home
I’m stuck I wanna know what yah think .. excuse my spelling ..so my set up is what I have listed above 2 (12s ndy ) and three tweeters prv in a Brazilian box. I got the PRV SQ9000X 1 Ohm . Which I was told is over kill for just two speakers so I have the choice now of making another Chuchero box with the same set up or buying 4 horns and making a driver box . For a loud clean set up would you just stick to another set up like I have now 2 12s ndy or get the “Drivers” . And if you say drivers which ones . As you know if I get the drivers ima need another amp I was told help me out I have for bass 2 kicker l7 12s.... and I gonna drown out the bass also would be another question of mine
 

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