Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread (((PICS)))

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/bowdown.gif.b85b23b82970bd22fb6b549c3392f016.gif ahhhhh... giant crimper //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/drool.gif.b5e863e893038027711d4402f340dad0.gif where do i get one?//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif
 
question. we don't have to replace the wires right? we can add to it right? cuz in my case, 2001 accord, the negative to chassis comes with stupid configuration that makes it difficult to replace the stock wire but i can add to it but this is okay right?

 
question. we don't have to replace the wires right? we can add to it right? cuz in my case, 2001 accord, the negative to chassis comes with stupid configuration that makes it difficult to replace the stock wire but i can add to it but this is okay right?

YES!

NEVER EVER EVER EVER cut your existing wires off unless you really, truly know what you are doing. adding to what you got is absolutly perfect!!!

bolt cutters for cutting the 0awg or larger wire. there are larger cutters, but 12" should be large enough. the larger, the eaiser they cut stuff.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41147

crimpers. they should do the jorb quite well //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91557

when im crimping my 0awg wires however, i just ply the ring terminals open a bit with some regular needle nose pliers (or whatever is handy) and put the wire in, and crimp it down with some nice big adjustable pliers. then set it on the pavement and have at it with a hammer. maybe a bit of solder on the end to give it that extra bit of rigidity //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

good writeup, but another tip,

to prevent rusting on the surfaces you sanded down, eaither battery terminal grease (found at pep boys and autozone for under a dollar) or some clear coat spray paint right after you bolt it down will completly prevent oxidization!!

good luck everyone //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I use a WizzWheel (also known as a cut-off tool) to cut my fat wires and a bench vice to crimp the big ends - works perfectly

a small sledge hammer is alse usefull to crimp the big wires when you cant bring them to the bench vise............

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question about the "positive alternator to positive battery"

my OE alt is rated 70amps. and im running 4ga power wire. so i ran 4ga for the big-3. however, i fused the 4ga wire inbetween the +alt and +batt but it blew within moments. not only the fuse of the connection, but the fuse of my main car battery fuse that sits in the fusebox under the hood! i used an ANL style fuse holder which was rated 60 or 70amps...i cant remember which.

ever since this incident, i was afriad to try again. but now i want to do it right and need someone to point me in the right direction.

 
just in curiosity, when disconnecting the negative wire for safety precautions, why putting the negative wire back to the battery, it causes a spark or little bit of smoke?

 
just in curiosity, when disconnecting the negative wire for safety precautions, why putting the negative wire back to the battery, it causes a spark or little bit of smoke?
Ya i read about peoples batteries exploding from their battery sparking after putting the wire back on the terminal. Its the luck of the draw i guess. Good luck! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
question about the "positive alternator to positive battery"my OE alt is rated 70amps. and im running 4ga power wire. so i ran 4ga for the big-3. however, i fused the 4ga wire inbetween the +alt and +batt but it blew within moments. not only the fuse of the connection, but the fuse of my main car battery fuse that sits in the fusebox under the hood! i used an ANL style fuse holder which was rated 60 or 70amps...i cant remember which.

ever since this incident, i was afriad to try again. but now i want to do it right and need someone to point me in the right direction.
Remember to recheck twice for shorts. And to also fuse for the capacity of the WIRE. For 4awg you should be at 150A.. not at 60A.

 
just in curiosity, when disconnecting the negative wire for safety precautions, why putting the negative wire back to the battery, it causes a spark or little bit of smoke?
I've always goobered up my terminals with anti-corrosion gel. Not only does it resist corrosion.. it's flame retardent. Hence no sparks.

 
question about the "positive alternator to positive battery"my OE alt is rated 70amps. and im running 4ga power wire. so i ran 4ga for the big-3. however, i fused the 4ga wire inbetween the +alt and +batt but it blew within moments. not only the fuse of the connection, but the fuse of my main car battery fuse that sits in the fusebox under the hood! i used an ANL style fuse holder which was rated 60 or 70amps...i cant remember which.

ever since this incident, i was afriad to try again. but now i want to do it right and need someone to point me in the right direction.
No fuse needed between ALT and BAT+POS,but if you feel you need one

get the largest you can find

 
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