No sound from AUX input- Eclipse 8051?

steveswell

Junior Member
Hi guys, newbie here...

Just installed the 8051 with Diamond Audio s500s up front, Eclipse Point Source 6x9s in rear and a Pioneer 10" sub powered by US Acoustics USX 2080, Alphasonik 2050 and US Acoustics USB 2100, respectively.

It's a pretty good setup, but I get no sound from the AUX input. I bought a generic ECL-to-mini-jack cable on ebay, but no signal. Have one from Eclipse with RCAs on the way. Is there a trick to enabling the AUX? Also looking for a manual (long shot, I know!)

Don't want to have to go inside the unit for mods to the input terminals, but I will if I have to. Love the sound and feel of the unit.

Any thought would be appreciated.

Steve

 
Yah, it's a great unit. Tell me if you figure out how to set that setting so the screen tilts up at you all the time. What's an ECL-to-mini-jack cable, and what are you using for your Aux unit? The 8051 unit doesn't use any of the plugs on the back of the unit to input the Aux, it has a cable which looks like the antenna cable coming out of the back. It needs a cable that looks like a 3.5mm headphone jack on each end. Take a picture of the back of your unit and I'll tell you what I mean, otherwise I might take a pic of mine tomorrow.

In other words, it's not one of those multi-pin connectors.

 
actually...i think i have a CD8051 manual at home. 10$ and it's yours. The tilt up all the time setting is modified by holding down the eject button... if i recall correctly (i've gone through a cd8454 to my current cd7k since i had my 8051 in, so i might be confused)

 
Man oh, man, thanks for the quick replies- I was flipping out over this! The install on the '95 Cadi Eldo was intense- took me almost a month (80+ hours) of research, planning the layout and purchasing- then the actual labor. First major effort since my '67 Camaro with a Pioneer Supertuner under-dash 8-track(KP500, was it)?, JBL 8" woofers in back and Radio Shack supertweeters forward-firing on rear deck thru a Craig amplifier. Ahead of the curve back in '75.

I took lots of pics, was thinking about doing a tutorial somewhere, somehow...

Sarthos, thanks, I just tread the post. I'll go out and check it now. I saw the wire connector with a rubber cover on it, but it I thought it was for a DSP or something. That MUST be it! I'm using a Creative Zen Micro with standard Mini headphone jack.

Oh, the ECL to mini is what I was reading about that hooks up to the round 13-pin CD changer input on Eclipse units. It provides AUX input thru the CD changer/controller input, I suppose. I was SOOO confused! http://www.caraudio.com/forum/images/smilies/crying.gif

Before I do that, doggone if my sub amp didn't blow both fuses last night! It's the US Acoustics USB2100. I'm running 6 gauge main power wire to a four-out distibution block, then 8 gauge to the three amps. They are rated at 160 + 100 + (300 for sub amp, bridged) for a total (rated at average 12.7 volts) of about 600 watts RMS, more or less. I have the gain on the USB just barely up from minimum, and the bass boost at about 70%. Gain on the 8150 is way up about 76-78 at maximum listening level. Do I need a 4 gauge power wire or can I just turn the amp down all the way? It's really nicely balanced with great flexibility overall as it is, so....

Sorry for the long post!

Headless, I'll take it. PM me and we'll work it out.

 
Also, Sarthos, do you know what the small metal box attached to a 2ft wire coming out of the back of the 8051 is? Just curious..

Thanks again for all the replies, awesome!

 
Turn off bass boost, up gain until you get a reasonable volume. Bass boost is the devil in disguise; trust me, it'll sound better without bass boost + gain set correctly.

I'll PM you when i get home in a couple of hours...gotta make sure it's the cd8051 manual and not my 8454 manual //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

6ga should be OK for that though personally i'd want 4ga for anything over 500w rms - at least from the front of car to rear (distributor block from there)

He's right about the aux-in, it looks like a little miniplug socket and comes with a cap; no ecl converer is needed. There is also optical inputs if i recall correctly (might only be on cd8454..), so be careful about plugging things in willy nilly //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
you're a lucky fellow, it turns out i do have a cd8051 manual

sending pm

i was wrong about the 'tilt adjust' feature, you have to hold down the open button, not the eject button, for more than 2 seconds for it to change the tilt. Just keep holding it down until it reaches the desired tilt...then let go. it locks in position.

Oh, about that little box. I never could get a straight answer about what the **** is inside it. My friends and I used to joke that it was the 'magic box'. Eclipse does some crazy **** to isolate noise sensitive components sometimes. I remember my first deck ever was an eclipse CD1001 - i can't even find any info about it on the net anymore, but i remember it was a touch screen activated single din unit without even a cd player in it - just the ****ing tuner itself. It didn't have a clock. Of course, the shop my friend bought it from was like 'dude eclipse won't even put clocks or cd players inside the tuner because of possible interference'...lol oookay

It hooked up using the eclipse bus dealio to an 8cd changer and a dsp unit and supported 5.1 w/ a center channel, rear channels processed for 'live reverb' or whatever the ****. It had the same **** box at the end of a 2 foot wire.. ****ed if i know what it does.

 
Sum*****! I went out to replace the two 20 amp fuses in the USB2100 and heard a pop as I put the first in. Pulled it back out, it was still good, but I didn't like the sound of that. Disconnected main power at battery and put them both in, no problem. Connected main power again and when I got to the trunk I saw wisps of smoke coming from the amp and smelled that awful smell of burning electronics. Unhooked power, pulled fuses, both still good. Checked all connections (power in, remote, ground, speakers) all good and secure, no shorts visible.

I've been running this system for at least 15 hours with nothing more than very minor tweaking of the crossovers and gain controls. I WAS listening to Dark Side of the Moon at high volume with bass boost up on amp last nite. It looks brand new and came in original box with instructions from reputable ebayer. What the **** could I have done to it? Why would I get a "fried" smell and smoke while the fuses don't blow? How can I check it outboard of the system?

Thanks all, need some help.

 
The box I believe is supposed to be some kind of a transformer that they put outside the unit in order to prevent interference. I think it has something to do with the power for the Pre-amp outputs, not entirely sure. Just don't let it cross your RCAs.

What amp is melting fuses, what's it going to, what resistance is it at? And if there's smoke coming from the amp it has a bad power supply. See if they have a warranty.

 
Thanks for the reply, Sarthos. It's the subwoofer amp, USB2100, bridged to a 4 ohm Pioneer 350 watt RMS sub enclosed. Does that mean it's running at 2 ohms? I believe it's stable at that resistance. I can't help but think that the several hours I pumped the volume at 75 percent amp gain did her in finally. Lucky the others managed to survive!

I was able to return the amp and have it repaired at no charge. Waiting for it to be shipped back, but since bought an Alpine V12 with slightly less power, but nice enough. I'll keep the bass boost down and watch the gain from now on. By the way, the AUX input works perfectly, that was a million dollar tip, thanks again! : very happy :

The only complaint I have now is the wide-ranging discrepancies between source material- so many cds are simply junk and other inherent flaws in many recordings (upload quality, compression, digital harshness, etc.) tend to be magnified with an upgraded system, but the good stuff sounds that much better.

I'm also hoping that the Diamond Audio s500s (silk tweeters) smooth out after break-in. Shrillness fading but still loud even after switching to -12db on the crossover.

 
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