Yes. 2 12 inch AQ SDC wired 1 ohm on 1500 rms.Are you running a sub as well?
Would you recomend me doing this? Was it hard?Well this was easy to figure out! look at the speakers they have an external x-over and the OP said after a minute the sound gets muffled? Well the external x-over has a protection circuit in it that kicks the tweeters out at about 50w in about 2 minutes then they come back when it's turned down for a minute and the circuit cools, I had this same issue a while back with my mbquart comps they would do this so I simply replaced the ceramic disc(I forget the technical name for it) with a solid piece of wire and even with no protection I have yet to blow a set.
Ok yes if you don't mind running the risk of no protection but it has yet to cause me any issue's So here goes open up the x-overs inside will be a small flat tan/yellowish disc with two wires coming out of it soldered to the board there will be only one and it's about 1/4"-5/16" in diameter, take and pull on this disc to straighten out the leads next clip them off as close to the disc as you can to save as much lead as possible on the board, now bend those two wires to where there touching and solder them together your done! now I also suggest taking the little tab/switch labeled attenuation and move it to -6db to minimize the amount of wattage your tweeters see now your free to crank them up! just be sensible I have to run my eq settings in the negative from 2.5khz and up to keep the tweeters from becoming harsh at high levels, but I also run double rms to my highs for plenty of headroom.Yes. 2 12 inch AQ SDC wired 1 ohm on 1500 rms.
---------- Post added at 05:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:29 PM ----------
Would you recomend me doing this? Was it hard?
NICE!!!! THIS SHOULD BE A STICKY!!!!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/santa.gif.e1ec9cf2e0a0dd232ad35aa594a126d0.gifOk yes if you don't mind running the risk of no protection but it has yet to cause me any issue's So here goes open up the x-overs inside will be a small flat tan/yellowish disc with two wires coming out of it soldered to the board there will be only one and it's about 1/4"-5/16" in diameter, take and pull on this disc to straighten out the leads next clip them off as close to the disc as you can to save as much lead as possible on the board, now bend those two wires to where there touching and solder them together your done! now I also suggest taking the little tab/switch labeled attenuation and move it to -6db to minimize the amount of wattage your tweeters see now your free to crank them up! just be sensible I have to run my eq settings in the negative from 2.5khz and up to keep the tweeters from becoming harsh at high levels, but I also run double rms to my highs for plenty of headroom.
Thanks, just took a little reverse engineering and a deep hatred for electronics telling me when it's loud enough!NICE!!!! THIS SHOULD BE A STICKY!!!!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/santa.gif.e1ec9cf2e0a0dd232ad35aa594a126d0.gif
No need to clip it. Most have enough wire that you can just twist it until the "legs" touch then give it another 1/2 rotation. That way if you don't like it or go to sell them you just untwist it. Plus it's a lot easier/quicker.Ok yes if you don't mind running the risk of no protection but it has yet to cause me any issue's So here goes open up the x-overs inside will be a small flat tan/yellowish disc with two wires coming out of it soldered to the board there will be only one and it's about 1/4"-5/16" in diameter, take and pull on this disc to straighten out the leads next clip them off as close to the disc as you can to save as much lead as possible on the board, now bend those two wires to where there touching and solder them together your done! now I also suggest taking the little tab/switch labeled attenuation and move it to -6db to minimize the amount of wattage your tweeters see now your free to crank them up! just be sensible I have to run my eq settings in the negative from 2.5khz and up to keep the tweeters from becoming harsh at high levels, but I also run double rms to my highs for plenty of headroom.
you could do that but the wire leads are not strands there solid so there not going to be the best connection that way, and I have no plans on going back or selling so I wanted it to be a permanent and trouble free as possible.No need to clip it. Most have enough wire that you can just twist it until the "legs" touch then give it another 1/2 rotation. That way if you don't like it or go to sell them you just untwist it. Plus it's a lot easier/quicker.
I will give that a try next time, sounds good and less time consuming.There will be plenty of contact between them. That's what I did to my Dynaudio xovers. Their stiffness plays into this for the good, not the bad.