Tbh I don't think you have enough room with your current dimensions because you're gross volume before any port or sub displacements and before a double baffle is only 12.16 manufacture recomendation is between 5 and 8 cubes ported. With no displacements and single baffle all the way around I managed to get 9.37ft^3 at 33Hz with 14.41in^2 per cube more tweaking could get you more port area but at the cost of volume and tuning maybe I'm missing some big clue but I think that's close to as good as it gets let me know what you think.Just as much as u can get without it effecting tuning so much
Which of those dimensions is height width and depth and will there be room for your port to fire rearwards if I draw it up that way or does everything need to face upwards?For my Skar VVX-10D2 I built the recommended ported box that measures 19x15.5x13. Its 1.44 cu.ft. tuned to 33hz. The space that I have available in the hatch of my 2012 Scion XB is 16x16x20. This will take up roughly 1/2 the cargo area in the hatch. Lookin to get a bit more oomph out of this Skar vvx-10. Perhaps later on I'll sell the Kenwood KAC-7205 and go with a Hifonics ZRX1200.1D which on sale for $159.
Again, I'd appreciate any design input you could provide. THANKS!!!
I re-measured my hatch and it looks like the room I have available is 16" high, 19" wide and 19" deep. There is no room for the port to face rearwards as the box will be less than an inch away from the rear hatch interior panel. So I guess both woofer and port will have to go on the top. Just the way I have it now with the port up against the rear window and the woofer closer to the rear seat. I guess I could spare an inch off the depth (so its 18" deep) so that there is room for port resonance if the port were to face the rear. I don't know if under 2" between port face and hatch wall would work, or if it would just cause all kinds of port noise. The box I built (based off of Skar Audio's recommended design) has a port that is 11.5" high and 1.25" wide and at high volumes I get tons of port noise. Anyways, I appreciate the assistance and look forwards to any design. Thanks again!Which of those dimensions is height width and depth and will there be room for your port to fire rearwards if I draw it up that way or does everything need to face upwards?
I'm having conceptual problems or I'm just brain dead or something tonight so it hasn't been very productive I apologize hopefully I can make more progress tomorrow.
Tbh I don't think you have enough room with your current dimensions because you're gross volume before any port or sub displacements and before a double baffle is only 12.16 manufacture recomendation is between 5 and 8 cubes ported. With no displacements and single baffle all the way around I managed to get 9.37ft^3 at 33Hz with 14.41in^2 per cube more tweaking could get you more port area but at the cost of volume and tuning maybe I'm missing some big clue but I think that's close to as good as it gets let me know what you think.
Which of those dimensions is height width and depth and will there be room for your port to fire rearwards if I draw it up that way or does everything need to face upwards?
If you could go to aero ports you would have more volume than you know what to do with. But it would probably nearly double the price of the build to go with any of the flared style ive found.hmmm
how about
43w 25h 26d
I have yours finished after running the dimensions of your last box through torres your box was under a foot cubed after port and subwoofer displacements so that could easily explain your lack of output and port noise.I re-measured my hatch and it looks like the room I have available is 16" high, 19" wide and 19" deep. There is no room for the port to face rearwards as the box will be less than an inch away from the rear hatch interior panel. So I guess both woofer and port will have to go on the top. Just the way I have it now with the port up against the rear window and the woofer closer to the rear seat. I guess I could spare an inch off the depth (so its 18" deep) so that there is room for port resonance if the port were to face the rear. I don't know if under 2" between port face and hatch wall would work, or if it would just cause all kinds of port noise. The box I built (based off of Skar Audio's recommended design) has a port that is 11.5" high and 1.25" wide and at high volumes I get tons of port noise. Anyways, I appreciate the assistance and look forwards to any design. Thanks again!
I ran in to a problem when attempting to draw yours when doing a port on each side of the sub the ports would run into each other along the back wall I'd recommend a single slot port or possibly 2 aeros but I'm not positive that aeros would work since I didn't check.Sundown x-12 powered by saz-1500v3. (Sub cutout is 11.09" and about 10" deep maybe)Max dims: 32w 15.5h 15d tuned between 28-32hrz
Sub n slot port back with double baffle ( 1" sub mount thickness, 1/2" flush mount thickness)
Also would like symmetry so either one port on each side or a single port running along the top or bottom
If you could do that it would be awesome and thanks in advance
Alright so it's looking like 47w x 31h x 47d give or take an inch on each but it shouldn't take that much room for 2 15's I'll try and get yours done tomorrow since you've been waiting a while.http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y433/Camarillo1310/IMAG0770_zps0008aa7c.jpghttp://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y433/Camarillo1310/IMAG0776_zps40f28c16.jpg
http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y433/Camarillo1310/IMAG0773_zps2f475602.jpg.
http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y433/Camarillo1310/IMAG0775_zps2037acc9.jpg
what if instead of L ports on each side u did U ports labyrinth style so they dont run into each otherI ran in to a problem when attempting to draw yours when doing a port on each side of the sub the ports would run into each other along the back wall I'd recommend a single slot port or possibly 2 aeros but I'm not positive that aeros would work since I didn't check.