New to mids and highs. Good 100wrms plus speaker options?

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

This was my old thread:

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/general-discussion/619334-new-upgrading-mids-highs-best-brands-%24-brick-mortar-dealers-sell.html

I've since made arrangements to just ship to a friend's house (duh, lol), so I don't need brick and mortar anymore. I'm probably going to get a ppi900.4 for the amp, but if anyone has objections to that I'm more than happy to listen to what you have to say. I also want some front/(and rear) speaker options. Current speakers are 6.5 in and I'm pretty sure the tweeters are 1 inch. My budget is, oh,, about $600 for amp and all 4 speakers (not including tweeters in front) but that number can change wildly and what I really want is "best bang for the buck" type gear. I want more than 100wrms per channel for the amp and at least 100wrms rated speakers unless they're well known to be under rated in which case I can go lower. My car came with front components so I'll probably get components in front and whatever y'all recommend for rears, whether that be coax, midbass driver, no speakers, etc.

I am leaning a little towards running rears as opposed to no rears because with my current stock system, when I fade the volume up to the front in my car it just doesn't sound as full. Granted, that could be due to the fact that I don't have my sub in the car yet and the rears are providing half of the small amount of bass I'm getting. The car came with a factory sub but I removed it and put it back in and hooked it back up and now it doesn't work.. Don't know what's up with that but if anyone has an idea lmk. It's not a huge deal tho as I'll be putting my SA-15 in the trunk once I receive my enclosure.

So...

If not ppi900.4, what then?

Good loud and clear 6.5 components?

Good speakers to put in deck?

And, how do your deck speakers hold up when you're running a large subwoofer with a lot of bass that pushes up on the deck speakers?

Should I just remove the deck speakers and bridge the ppi900.4 so it supplies 2x450wrms at 4 ohms? That is a very attractive option for me I have to say because I could get a high end component set and just run them off that high power.

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[tommymilan311]

I'm running 2 sets of Alpine Type-R components. I didn't get the coaxle for the back because sadly they did not fit //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif It still sound good however because I got plenty of tweet from my front speakers. You can actually get them pretty cheap on Amazon. I like them and think they sound good. You'll probably get some other good recommendations as well //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Good luck!

Alpine SPR-60C - $155/Pair

Alpine SPR-60 - $120/Pair

Looks like you'll be all good with the amp you like and these speaker, and they'll give you pretty good bang for your buck IMO.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

I'm looking for something really good and recommended by someone who has used several types/brands. (Sundown, CDT, Massive audio, or something. I've only heard subs from them so I want advice on components) Looking for something a whole lot better for the money wise than type R.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

***Most appealing option to me: remove the deck speakers and bridge the ppi900.4 so it supplies 2x450wrms at 4 ohms, and power a real nice 3 way 6.5 inch that is set up so 2 of each pair's speakers can go in my door and the 1 inch tweeter can go where my current factory tweeter is. Anyone know of a speaker like that? Should I use passive crossovers like the kind that come with components or should I get a digital sound processor (DSP)? I'm a total noob when it comes to the front stage.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

CDT Audio HD-61Pro CR2 I can put together a package very similar to this with HD 6.5" front components and 6.5" coaxials for the rear. It will handle the P900.4 great.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

***Most appealing option to me: remove the deck speakers and bridge the ppi900.4 so it supplies 2x450wrms at 4 ohms, and power a real nice 3 way 6.5 inch that is set up so 2 of each pair's speakers can go in my door and the 1 inch tweeter can go where my current factory tweeter is. Anyone know of a speaker like that? Should I use passive crossovers like the kind that come with components or should I get a digital sound processor (DSP)? I'm a total noob when it comes to the front stage.

You only feel like you need the rear fill since you do not have an adequate front stage. When you have a front stage done right, you wont ever miss the rears at all. Its supposed to feel like a whole concert is on your dash where you can distinguish each instrument with the vocalist dead center of the dash.

Needless to say, you will need time alignment for this to work.

Proper acoustical door treatments will give you the midbass your front lacks. Its very important if you want any decent performance out of any speaker there. The money you plan on spending on rear fills should go to this part of the install instead. A good install and tune is what makes you sound good. Poor staging choices like pouring money on rear fill is one of the common mistakes. Keep those rear fill stock and on head unit power while the front 2 or 3 way will get all the power.

If you want to go with a DSP, watch this video first and if you dont get lost then you are ready to tackle tuning a DSP



If its all mumble jumbo. You arent ready. OR you can get a JBL ms-8 where it does everything for you.

If you go with a DSP route, you can get extremely amazing stuff for a lot cheaper since you can run active instead of passive aka piecing together good drivers and tweeters rather than spending money on a set of lack luster mediocre components.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

You only feel like you need the rear fill since you do not have an adequate front stage. When you have a front stage done right, you wont ever miss the rears at all. Its supposed to feel like a whole concert is on your dash where you can distinguish each instrument with the vocalist dead center of the dash.
Needless to say, you will need time alignment for this to work.

Proper acoustical door treatments will give you the midbass your front lacks. Its very important if you want any decent performance out of any speaker there. The money you plan on spending on rear fills should go to this part of the install instead. A good install and tune is what makes you sound good. Poor staging choices like pouring money on rear fill is one of the common mistakes. Keep those rear fill stock and on head unit power while the front 2 or 3 way will get all the power.

If you want to go with a DSP, watch this video first and if you dont get lost then you are ready to tackle tuning a DSP

I'm pretty sure it only sounds better with rears now because I don't have my sub in the car yet and the rears are providing like half of the small amount of bass I'm getting. I'm definitely getting the ppi900.4, can't find one reason not to other than a feeling like it's too good to be true for the price... I will definitely be deadening the crap out of my doors when I get new speakers. I'm not that hands-on-automotive inclined though so idk how I'm gonna do it. I just deadened my trunk lid because it's the only metal I can directly get to. Probably just gonna deal with stock speakers and drowning is bass for a few months after I get my box for my sa-15. So would you say the best option would be to remove the deck speakers and bridge the ppi900.4 so it supplies 2x450wrms at 4 ohms and just power some beast components in the front? (Not going with active yet, but might somewhere down the road, [?:unless I can run active without tuning a DSP somehow?]). Or would going with some rear deck speakers as well be a better option?