New system melted fuse. will big 3 help?

Cshread
10+ year member

Junior Member
Ok i just installed a 1000/1 and 2 12" JL W6v2's, got a brand new optima red top, and a new 100a fuse and fuse holder. It bumped great for about 24hours then they cut out all of asudden, i check under the hood and the actual plastic case surround my fuse melted, so not the fuse holder, its not from heat produced by my car, the plastic on the fuse melted. I havent done the BIG 3 update, and im wondering id this is a cause for my problem?? I think im trying to draw too much on my stock electrical system so this update seems like it would be a fix, anyone have any input on this or why else my fuse would have gotten so hot it melted??

 
bad connections where though? ive checked them all they all look perfect to me. The fuse isnt cheap i got it at a car audio store, the brand is IXOS and its a 100a fuse

 
bad connections where though? ive checked them all they all look perfect to me. The fuse isnt cheap i got it at a car audio store, the brand is IXOS and its a 100a fuse
dayuuumm IXOS AND retail //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

If you just happened to have it installed at a car audio shop, take pics and march right back in there and demand repairs AND a refund. Heat buildup at the fuse holder would be due to a bad connection resulting in an arc causing heat.

 
sounds like 9-11v FTL //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

My car blew out the front main fuse(100a) back a long time ago(before electrical upgrades) when i was having severe voltage drops...remember the amp can only get as much juice as the Gauge wire allows it to. You can have w/e upgraded battery up front wont make a difference with some 4 gauge over that distance.( i was running about 4-5 when i blew my shit out too). Yes your only running 1000w but still man

Look online for the appropriate wire gauge (http://www.realmofexcursion.com/images/other/gaugechart.gif) It says 4 but obviously its not working for you. They fail to mention that running the correct sized wire for your setup requires backing electrical as well.

 
Ok, well i took a look at my ground, it was connected to an already existing bolt on the wheel well in my trunk, it was mounted right on top of the primer and shit SO. I unhooked it, sanded down a brand new spot in my trunk, and bolted the ground back in, so far so good, although im being really cautious about how loud im playing it. I didnt have the car audio store install cause they make you buy their wiring kit and then charge 300 for labor and that shit sucks. So so far the new ground seems to work on low volume "bumping" if you wanna call it that, and there doesn't seem to be any heat build up as i am checking it whenever i pull in somewhere. I turned my amps gains down as well to help not over drive my electrical system, if anyone has any other suggestions please provide them. Oh and i understand your saying use a larger wire, but the 1000/1 doesnt accept a larger wire, the ports to install the ground and power only fit a 4 gauge, so that cant be the problem. If any wiring is causing an issue it has to be the ones connecting my negative on my battery to my chassis, or the one connected to my alternator, but well see for now i suppose.

 
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Cshread

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