New subwoofer stage install, whats missing?

impedance still a mystery. i agree JL only make a -d4 model. but the sticker on the terminal area..? and my 2ohm kicker box reads 1.3ohm on my meter (fluke 88) thats why i assumed the JL box was 2ohm as well. and.... the 750.1 amp is not 1ohm stable, so it would have shut down on me???

i absolutely love your idea about running a second amp and splitting the subs out!!! thanks

now, what do you think about doing that on a honda stock alternator (80A)?

this dealer is not refunding anything, luckily i paid nothing for the box, total was around what a simple pair of w6s cost. ill throw it away...

it was hard getting back into this stuff from such a long time out. wish i had found this forum a little sooner. I am amazed with all the good help i am getting...

 
impedance still a mystery. i agree JL only make a -d4 model. but the sticker on the terminal area..? and my 2ohm kicker box reads 1.3ohm on my meter (fluke 88) thats why i assumed the JL box was 2ohm as well. and.... the 750.1 amp is not 1ohm stable, so it would have shut down on me???
i absolutely love your idea about running a second amp and splitting the subs out!!! thanks

now, what do you think about doing that on a honda stock alternator (80A)?

this dealer is not refunding anything, luckily i paid nothing for the box, total was around what a simple pair of w6s cost. ill throw it away...

it was hard getting back into this stuff from such a long time out. wish i had found this forum a little sooner. I am amazed with all the good help i am getting...
Keep the subs then they aren't bad subs, some of the best sounding subs that can get decently loud in a proper box out there. they just need to breathe. Stock 80 amp alt will be pretty hard, might want to just use the single 750.1 with a custom ported box while you get some electrical upgrades in. You will need to do the Big 3 upgrade and a good AGM battery under the hood, however if you perform the big 3 upgrade the system is still not able to handle your single 750.1 right now(lights dim, low battery voltage), then you will need a high output alt or at least go to an alt shop so they can rebuild/beef up/upgrade your stock alt.

A D4 subwoofer wired parallel will be 2 ohms. Two D4 wired parallel will both be at 2 ohms each and when wired parallel with each other, the ohms will drop down to 1. Your kicker was a D2, wire that down to parallel will be at 1 ohm. If you had two kickers, it will be at .5 ohms when wired parallel.

 
jeffdachef

okay this is what i expected on the electrical. big 3 will happen very soon. just getting my direction sorted now with the rest of the goods....

and check out the box hone has linked, thats the exact box.... 2 ohm total ....

i am 100% with you on the math. the label on the terminals still has me leaning towards some kind of uniqueness.

been wanting to call JL all weekend long...

 
those are single driver though right?
mine are supposed to be two wired in parallel
Yes both are single drivers(in 2 different cars obviously haha)

They're both wired to 2 ohm though so if you were wired at 2 ohm that's about what you should be getting.

I believe the w6 coils actually read a little under 4 ohm each, like ~3.5 ohm or so

 
pretty sure they only make them in D4s you are currently wired parallel to 1 ohm, it will be slightly high because of resistances along the path of travel or your DMMs resistance.
Best thing to max out the potential of the subs is to get a custom ported box and put a 750.1 on each of them running at 2 ohms on each amp.

JL's premade boxes are usually junk. They glam it up and sell it for an arm and a leg when you can get better performance for much less. Those boxes are geared for cramming in tight spaces/space saving, not optimal sound quality.

Definitly see if you can get a refund on the box. Hell if you can refund the whole amount, you can get something close to SQ performance but can get much louder for a lot less. A LOT LESS

Another HD750/1 would be a good idea. But JL's boxes aren't junk. The W7 HO box gets loud and it sounds good at the same time. They aren't made for competition, they're made for everyday people that want good sound so of course an SPL person would bash it because it's not what they want. They're purpose specific boxes, and they're the only brand giving people the option to put bass in their vehicles without taking any space. They have a market and they dominate it pretty well especially considering they have a basic monopoly with their stealthboxes, which they sell a lot of even though they're expensive, and they're one of few SQ oriented brands. That's the thing is they can charge that much because they're the only ones doing what they do. Show me amps with R.I.P.S and not just a regulated power supply, damping factors over 500, advanced input and tone control/24db crossovers and show me stealthboxes and show me 13.5" 2.5" thick subs that take a true 600wrms from any other brand for less than what JL charges and I'll admit defeat.

And I beg to differ about refunding the whole thing. The subs maybe, but only because I've never been a fan of JL subs besides their shallow line, refund the amp only if he needs a bigger one, but this guy is into SQ so he should stick with the HD or slash series amps. To be honest, unless what you recommend him for an amp is a Hertz or Pioneer Stage 4 etc., it's going to be a downgrade in SQ because those are the only types of brands competing with JL's amps. I will swear by their amps until the day I die, I have heard nearly every brand out there and nothing comes close to the slash and HD series in SQ besides other SQ brands that cost even more than JL. JL is good ****, don't diss it just because it's not what you want. If somebody has the money to spend on it, let 'em do it.

 
Another HD750/1 would be a good idea. But JL's boxes aren't junk. The W7 HO box gets loud and it sounds good at the same time. They aren't made for competition, they're made for everyday people that want good sound so of course an SPL person would bash it because it's not what they want. They're purpose specific boxes, and they're the only brand giving people the option to put bass in their vehicles without taking any space. They have a market and they dominate it pretty well especially considering they have a basic monopoly with their stealthboxes, which they sell a lot of even though they're expensive, and they're one of few SQ oriented brands. That's the thing is they can charge that much because they're the only ones doing what they do. Show me amps with R.I.P.S and not just a regulated power supply, damping factors over 500, advanced input and tone control/24db crossovers and show me stealthboxes and show me 13.5" 2.5" thick subs that take a true 600wrms from any other brand for less than what JL charges and I'll admit defeat.
And I beg to differ about refunding the whole thing. The subs maybe, but only because I've never been a fan of JL subs besides their shallow line, refund the amp only if he needs a bigger one, but this guy is into SQ so he should stick with the HD or slash series amps. To be honest, unless what you recommend him for an amp is a Hertz or Pioneer Stage 4 etc., it's going to be a downgrade in SQ because those are the only types of brands competing with JL's amps. I will swear by their amps until the day I die, I have heard nearly every brand out there and nothing comes close to the slash and HD series in SQ besides other SQ brands that cost even more than JL. JL is good ****, don't diss it just because it's not what you want. If somebody has the money to spend on it, let 'em do it.
I'm not a JL hater man. Many JL installs sound waay better with a custom ported box. Their designed enclosures if you just model the specs out on a software, its not optimal at all for both sq and loudness, you can do much better than their prefab design. I'm not an all out spl guy, I dab in SQ too man, people with JL ported prefabs in sound quality comps usually score very low compared to ones in a proper tuned ported or T-line enclosure or even a bigger spec'd sealed enclosure.

Box design you have to choose between loudness, SQ, and size, you cannot have all 3, only two out of the 3.

Besides their boxes, I did not bash their products at all, You must of read stuff and misinterpret it wrong. If you refer to post #17 . I've used JL subs and amps before, its good **** no arguments there bro, hell if they made a JL 4k with constant power technology, I'd be all over that.

That JL box the OP has DESERVES bashing. This is not the first time someone has bought that EXACT same designed box and got pissed off at the sh*t sound quality/output. There was a thread not too long ago with the exact same complaint with this exact same setup in the 10w6 version and he paid extra for the box(it wasnt included like the op's deal). Needless to say, that dude was pissed after spending that much money. Then he got a custom made ported box and was 1000x happier.

Hell, even this guy had a JL prefab ported box and switched over to a spare tire enclosure http://www.caraudio.com/forums/general-discussion/616533-wow-just-wow.html#post8700224

@ OP, you can try to sell that JL box on craigslist or you can throw a pair of 12 inch pro audio midbass in it for a portable boom box project or something. Basically useless.

 
Huge difference between the JL HO enclosures and that weird lookin box pic on 1st page with those subs facing away from each other than a custom one.

JL made those spec boxes for the "average joe"vehicle. Guaranteed it's not gonna make your shirt fly off ya if you still go that route.

if the subs are to be kept, I'd say get a custom ported box built. Like already suggested.

 
I'm not a JL hater man. Many JL installs sound waay better with a custom ported box. Their designed enclosures if you just model the specs out on a software, its not optimal at all for both sq and loudness, you can do much better than their prefab design. I'm not an all out spl guy, I dab in SQ too man, people with JL ported prefabs in sound quality comps usually score very low compared to ones in a proper tuned ported or T-line enclosure or even a bigger spec'd sealed enclosure.
Box design you have to choose between loudness, SQ, and size, you cannot have all 3, only two out of the 3.

Besides their boxes, I did not bash their products at all, You must of read stuff and misinterpret it wrong. If you refer to post #17 . I've used JL subs and amps before, its good **** no arguments there bro, hell if they made a JL 4k with constant power technology, I'd be all over that.

That JL box the OP has DESERVES bashing. This is not the first time someone has bought that EXACT same designed box and got pissed off at the sh*t sound quality/output. There was a thread not too long ago with the exact same complaint with this exact same setup in the 10w6 version and he paid extra for the box(it wasnt included like the op's deal). Needless to say, that dude was pissed after spending that much money. Then he got a custom made ported box and was 1000x happier.

Hell, even this guy had a JL prefab ported box and switched over to a spare tire enclosure http://www.caraudio.com/forums/general-discussion/616533-wow-just-wow.html#post8700224

@ OP, you can try to sell that JL box on craigslist or you can throw a pair of 12 inch pro audio midbass in it for a portable boom box project or something. Basically useless.
I'm not an all out JL fanboy either, I just like what's good and I'll admit I don't like everything they make. I think their speakers are middle-of-the-road and I don't like their subs either, and I agree with you, I don't like the design of the OP's box at all either. I wouldn't say it's useless though... looks like it could be easily turned into an isobaric enclosure but other than that, yeah basically useless. I have no idea what they were thinking firing the woofers like that and I had to check the website just to make sure it wasn't isobaric because it sure looks isobaric. Makes no sense to design the box like that unless it's isobaric, totally agree the box is bad.

 
I know a little something about JL gear.

The boxes are for the masses, not for the audiophile

That amp is more than enough, wire at 4ohm will give you plenty of power. Go any bigger and your 80amp alternator will die.

Put each 12 in 2 cubes per ported tuned at 32hz with 60sq inches of port total. You don't need or have room for a 4th order.

You have some of the top SQ subs ever made.

 
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