New setup idea

Hi guys my names Dean, Ive been thinking about getting either two Re audio se-x v1s or two Obsidian audio OA-12 v2s. I want to get the dual 2 ohm voice coil models running on either a Hifonics Brutus 1200 watt or 1700 watt amp. I've heard good about the Brutus series but I don't know whether to get the 1200 or 1700 because I really don't want to have to upgrade my alternator, if it would need to be done. Right now I have a dual 12 box with 1cu ft for each sub sealed that I built. I want to buy 1 sub now and run it on my MBQuart formula 600.1 until after Christmas When i will build a 4cu ft box tuned to 33Hz with one of the Brutus amps(or another recommended amp) and buy the second subwoofer. Tell me what you guys think, I'm really not experienced in whats what so I'm open to all advice and criticism. I'm 17 and still in high school so I do have have a budget which is why i was looking at this combination.

P.S. I drive a 4 door wagon

 
At 2Ω neither of those amps should tax your electrical system too bad but... "a four door wagon" could be an old school Buick Le Sabre wagon with a factory 140 amp alternator or a Subaru base model wagon with an 80 amp alternator.

The more information you share, the more accurate information you can get. ;-)

 
Thank you for the response, when I said wagon i was thinking about airspace lol didn't even think alternators even though it's what I was asking about. Anyways I drive a 2002 volvo xc70 with a gas 2.4l turbo which I believe has a 140 amp alternator but I'd have to find the parts number during the day

 
Personally, I'd run 1/0 to either of those amps and call it a day. As for the subs... pick one (or two) you like and make sure the box is designed around it to the extent that it will fit your available space and handle the power you're planning to run.

I'd also run the largest possible battery that will fit.

 
Thanks for the advice man, one of the things about my car is the battery is in the back so running 0 to the amps is too easy. Plus I can get 0 from where I work for a good price, glad to know I don't need to go crazy with the electrical system.

 
Thanks for the advice man, one of the things about my car is the battery is in the back so running 0 to the amps is too easy. Plus I can get 0 from where I work for a good price, glad to know I don't need to go crazy with the electrical system.
remember that your only wiring options for 2 dual 2 ohm subs is 2 or .5 ohms. Be sure not to wire down to a half ohm if the amp you chose is not stable under that load. You may want to look into different coil configurations if those amps do their rated power at 1 ohm, and thats the amount you require

 
Ok the OA-12 d4s say sold out so'm not really sure what that means, but what do you guys think about my subs picks, I'm open to all sugestions but I'd like to stay in the 140 dollar range.

 
I'm in central Florida about 2 hours from Orlando and every other city, and I guess I'll wait for the v3's they seem like a really solid speaker haven't seen anything bad about em.

 
Thanks for the advice man, one of the things about my car is the battery is in the back so running 0 to the amps is too easy. Plus I can get 0 from where I work for a good price, glad to know I don't need to go crazy with the electrical system.
Well, so you're okay with the amp wiring but you'll still need to do the big three at some point so no... there are no free rides in car audio.

And I would consider "crazy with electrical" to be running a high powered amplifier setup without those things. ;-)

 
Ok I'll probably go ahead and do the big 3 with the money I have right now since I'm waiting for the v3's to come out. As far as the battery goes what do you guys suggest.

 
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