New High-end Car Stereo suggestions

[Techspert 10+ year member]

Hello,

I am new to this board. I am looking for suggestions on components for my 2003 Range Rover.

For the vocals and high seperate speakers: (top-shelf stuff) (

I'm looking for extreme accuracy and dynamics.

Nothing too harsh or bright sounding

For the sub speakers: (top-shelf stuff) (

I'm looking for extreme accuracy and dynamics.

Nothing with grill construction that weighs 200lbs and requires a humongous sized box.

I'm trying to stay away from anything too boomy.

I'd prefer a speaker that only requires a small to medium sized enclosure.

1 12-inch, 2 10-inch or 2 12-inches in an enclosure ???

For the amplification: (top-shelf stuff) ($800 - $2000)

Vocal amp - Extreme accuracy and dynamics

5,6 or 7-channel

As clean as possible but still packs a punch without

distorting.

True RMS ratings, not literature hype.

Competition proven

US made ONLY

Sub amp - Same as above ($800 - $1500)

Also, is it true Phoenix Golds amps are no longer made in the US? Is the McIntosh 6 channel MCC406M a good choice for my mids and highs? It is 50 x 4 and 100 x 2. I am not sure this is enough power.

Thanx in advance for your suggestions.

Click to read more...

 

[pavengmike6 10+ year member]

I would go with MB Quartz for you mids and highs. They have a wide range of speakers to fit almost any budget and application.

As for a sub, there are so many out there it is more a taste. I love my eclipse titanium 10's. Even though they like a vented enclosure they sound great in a sealed application. With what you are saying you want a clean sounding system that does not take away from you using your SUV like you should.

I like my orion, and concept amps. Great products.

HU. I would get an Eclipse HU, but again there are so many different models you will need to know what you are looking for to choose the right one. If you want MP3 playback, or AUX input. Things like that.

As you can tell I am an Eclipse fan. I like the Eclipse for a number of reasons. Unlike most HU the Eclipse has an Internal serial number that cannot be changed by anyone but the factory. The next thing is if any puck ass kids steals your HU it will not work without your security CD. ONLY authorized Eclipse dealers have the MASTER CD so unless a dealership is in on the stealing it will do no good for anyone to take your HU.

As for the question on the amp. I do not have that info. But 100 for each speaker is not bad. As long as it is a CLEAN signal 100 watts is damm loud.

Balance is the key, you can have way to much highs, or to much bass.

 

[nosaj070 10+ year member]

For amps check out Tru Technology, or Mcintosh, both some of the best amps around right now. For the subs maybe a W7, RE XXX, or wait a while for the new ED A. Eclipse is a good choice for HU's, so is Nakamachi. For components just make sure you have heard them before you go spending a ton of money on them.

 

[yayopwr 10+ year member]

i gotta say one thing .....the system the range comes with, the logic 7 or whatever it is is truly amazing, it may not get that loud but it sounds perfect i think ... my girl just got the mint green one and the truck is so refined its ridiculous good luck with it and i wish i had some more useful information to give you but i dont....sorry //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Shugarra 10+ year member]

RS-Audio pro set (rs-audio.de) for front speakers and Zapco makes some great American amps.

 

[Anarcy 10+ year member]

Why do you only want american amps? I heard that Audiobahn was made outside of the country. I purchased an amp, it has great response and makes the subs sound clean. It is flashy also. And way underrated.

 

[slick316 10+ year member]

i think diamond audio amps are made in the US (atleast thats what the box says in huge lettering).

the D7's are the top of the line, or as i like to call them, "the chili". all the D7's are class a/b, and are hand built i believe. they make power at reasonable voltage (my D7152 is rated at 150x2@4ohms but birthsheet showed 170x2@4ohms with 12.6 volts input).

if you got a D7152, you can use it to power a set of focal utopias or boston acoustics z6's. i recommend those two sets because they do sound great, and they fit your price range. i would say get the diamond audio hex's, but those are $500 speakers, and for $1000+, you have other, better choices.

for subs, i dont have much experience. i love my TDX, and 2 10" tdx's would sound great, and be loud also, but there will be plenty of people here who would suggest a W7. i've heard W7's before, i liked them, but i like my TDX a little more. you might also want to look at the W6v2, that sub may not be an spl sub, but it definately sounds great, and works well in small enclosures (i think its meant for small enclosures actually).

what about a HU? gonna get one or use the stock?

if it were me, i'd get a set of the focal utopias ($1200 retail), run it with a D7152 ($1200 retail), 2 12" TDX ($500-$600 a piece) and a D7402 ($2000 retail) or 2 12" W6v2 ($400 a piece i think) and a D7401 ($1500 retail).

 

[DBfan187 5,000+ posts]

I see lot's of solid choices in this thread!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Go with some of these and you will not regret it!

As long as it is a CLEAN signal 100 watts is damm loud.

I'm not really sure what your trying to imply here?

A watt is a watt!

 

[B_Master_Flash 10+ year member]

For speakers you should prolly look at:

ARC audio ACS 6.5 components $449

Rainbow PRO 6.5 components $589

a/d/s 236is 6.5 components $399

Image Dynamics CS1.82 MH HLCD components $574

DynAudio 240GT 6.5 components $517

Focal 165 w 6.5 components $549

MB Quart QSD 216 6.5 components $591

Subs:

Eclipse SW9122 12" $479

Stereo Integrity Magnum D2 12" $300

Image Dynamics IDMAX 12" $289

Diamond Audio TDX 12" $349

JL audio 12w7 12" $554

 

[Pete 10+ year member]

I have to second all of Flashes recommendations.

Dynaudio and CDT are my favorite for front speakers.

Subs: would be JL w7, IDMAX 12, and TDX.

For Amplification I would recommend Memphis, Tru, and Zapco. Also I have heard great things about US Amps with the tube front ends, but have never heard them in person.

 

[adam71 5,000+ posts]

I see lot's of solid choices in this thread!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Go with some of these and you will not regret it!

I'm not really sure what your trying to imply here?

A watt is a watt!

Actually, watts have nothing to do with the signal before its amplified. I think he was implying as long as the preamp signal to the amp is clean then 100 watts should be sufficient.

Adam

 

[adam71 5,000+ posts]

Amps - Brax, McIntosh, Tru-Technology, Zapco.

Subs - JL w7, Premier PRS (yellow ones), Image Dynamics ID Max.

components - Rainbow, Focal, Morel, Cliff Designs

Head Unit - Clarion DRZ-9255, Premier DEX-P9, Nakamichi CD-700, McIntosh MX406

To name a few. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/clap.gif.178cba2c538c68e720c727fcb024b19c.gif

P.S. Almost forgot to mention Eclipse's and Alpine's flagships. Very good units also.

 

[nweibley 10+ year member]

For front Mids/highs I would get CDT ES-643s, I wouldn't dare go with MB quartz if you didn't want it to sound too bright or harsh. Amp those with a TruTech amp... something around 150 watts up to 200 watts... you can’t pick a bad TruTech amp, but the more you spend, the better. Don't waste too much on rear fill. It is just fill. You don't want overpowering sound coming from behind you; it ruins your sound stage. Get a 4 channel amp for everything behind you, and if you must, maybe some CL-61s or a set of Diamond audio components? Coaxils would be fine though, especially in the way back.

Sub: one 12" should fit the bill. How about an adire Brahma in a sealed box? For American made amps, the TruTech hammers are unbelievable, but are also class AB. USAmps may fit your bill, but they can deliver some unbelievable wattage if you don't watch it. Perhaps if the Brahma doesn't suit you, a TDX or IDMAX may.

Just spreading my personal stank; most everything in this thread is good, if not great.

 

[WeDgE 10+ year member]

I'm not really sure what your trying to imply here?A watt is a watt!

Clipping is a factor and sounds like poo when you do hear it.