new door idea PLUS need input on low wattage components

[RoudyruffKK 10+ year member]

ok as most of you know i'm pretty unsatisfied with my current midbass. it's not really that i'm unsatisfied i feel that it's lacking. check my sig for my equipment but i feel like the HD mids although sound amazing just aren't cutting it in the lower spectrum say sub 120hz and i'm currently running an active setup

i've thought about changing out the midbasses or adding a dedicated midbass, but IMO i think that it's going to cost way too much to fiberglass an 8" + another amp (which i don't have room for). RIGHT NOW I"M LOOKING FOR A HIGH EFFICIENCY COMPONENT SET. tell me if this would work well..... get a set of components that will be efficiently powered by 100rms/side (channels 1/2) then get a set of 6.5" dedicated midbasses (something along the lines of 100rms @ 4ohm or 200rms @ 2ohm, that's what my amp puts out in channels 3/4). i don't think it would be too hard to fabricate 6.5" in the door. i'm looking for sql mostly sq with the ability to get loud if i want it to.

now would my amp be sufficient in that setup/will this work? recommend me speakers that would work best in this setup, with the given power i have to work with. right now i'm thinking:

COMPONENTS - alpine SPX-177R: i've heard people say 60-70rms is perfect for it but i'm not sure if they meant perside or per driver (60rms for mid, 60rms for tweeter or is it just 60rms for the whole side). also their site also states that the crossover is "3-Way/Dual Midbass Ready" and "Bi-Amp/Bi-Wire Capable" i won't be biamping them because i only have 2 channels to work with, and i won't need the 3way option because each midbass will have it's own dedicated channel so in a way i'm "biamping" because basically i have on driver from 60hz-250hz(mid) and another "driver"(components) that go from 250hz-20khz. IS THAT HOW IT WOULD GO? I"M UNSURE IF IT WOULD WORK THAT WAY

MIDBASS- re xxx 6.5": lots of midbass (it's what i'm looking for)

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[bikejunkie223 10+ year member]

Have you tried sound deadening the doors where your 6.5's are? I had some Polk db 6500 components that were really lacking in midbass and was going tobuy a new amp, but on a dealers suggestion, we sound deadened the doors with Cascade, sealed them up well, and in made an absurd difference. I would try that first, I was floored at the results in my car.

 

[RoudyruffKK 10+ year member]

Have you tried sound deadening the doors where your 6.5's are? I had some Polk db 6500 components that were really lacking in midbass and was going tobuy a new amp, but on a dealers suggestion, we sound deadened the doors with Cascade, sealed them up well, and in made an absurd difference. I would try that first, I was floored at the results in my car.

the door's are deadened both sides with dynamat extreme, still doesn't have the authority in the kicks as i would like, i'm going to check the speaker wire to the amp to see if they are out of phase. i don't think that's the problem because without my sub the midbass is there just that when i put the sub back in it almost feels nonexistant because the sub hits so hard the midbass isn't keeping up

 

[SSS 18734 5,000+ posts]

the door's are deadened both sides with dynamat extreme, still doesn't have the authority in the kicks as i would like, i'm going to check the speaker wire to the amp to see if they are out of phase. i don't think that's the problem because without my sub the midbass is there just that when i put the sub back in it almost feels nonexistant because the sub hits so hard the midbass isn't keeping up

turn the sub down a bit?

also, ur sig says you have 48sq ft of dynamat installed everywhere in your car except the roof and floor... that doesn't leave much room for deadening the doors. From what i've heard you should aim for about 20 sq.ft. per door and you should seal up the holes in order to really get good results.

 

[bikejunkie223 10+ year member]

turn the sub down a bit?
also, ur sig says you have 48sq ft of dynamat installed everywhere in your car except the roof and floor... that doesn't leave much room for deadening the doors. From what i've heard you should aim for about 20 sq.ft. per door and you should seal up the holes in order to really get good results.

That's what I'm sayin' The only holes in my door skin is the one the speaker goes in. Just don't fill up your door with packing material like some dumbass did in a Ford Escape that was traded in last week. The friggin' windows wouldn't roll down. Idiot=whoever did that.