New amp MORE power, car sluggish to start.

XORstatus
10+ year member

CAR audio IDIOT :P
Hello guys,

I have recently gotten a different amp, previously I had two kickers one 750.1 and a 600.1.

I used those simultaneously without any problems to my recollection, although I did not use the pair in tandem for long.

I recently got an audiopipe 1500 D to push my memphis Mojo 15, the lights dim considerably when he bass hits hard and after a decently long trip in which I have been slamming for a vast portion of time the car is at time sluggish to start back up.

I am worried that my car will cease to start at all one day.

I do not have the problem if I have been listening to the bass at low volumes.

I have completed 2 parts of the BIG 3, Battery negative to the body of the car, and body of the car ground to the engine block.

I have not done the alt to the positive bat terminal, I am getting some money together to accomplish this last task.

I drive a volvo which the battery is in the trunk and I need about 25+ feet of 0 gauge to complete this.

On the advice of others here I am waiting to get a getter quality of wire.

What do you guys think?

 
What alternator do u have...if stock how many amp

What sort of battery do u have..

How high do u hae the gains and bass boost

On thing people need to realize is the big 3 doesn't magically fix dimming and al electrical issues....

 
What alternator do u have...if stock how many ampWhat sort of battery do u have..

How high do u hae the gains and bass boost

On thing people need to realize is the big 3 doesn't magically fix dimming and al electrical issues....
too many errors (grammar and spelling) to fix here...

 
Sorry Ive been away for a while.

I have a stock VOLVO S60 alt which supposedly puts out 120 amps, ITS NOT AC DELCO crap, its made by BOSCH, which isnt a golden name but a better brand than usual AC DELCO.

I have a standard DIE HARD battery.

The gain on my AUDIOPIPE 1500D:

Comparing the gain control to a clock face, The gain minimum would be 8 o'clock and the maximum would be 4 o'clock

I have the gain set to 9 o'clock, just a smidgen above minimum.

I keep it low because my sub is rated at 1k RMS, I wanted an amp that would produce that power easily WITHOUT clipping, so I wouldn't have to overdrive the amp.

Ive clamped it and im running about 1.1-1.25K ish through it.

I do however have the bass control knob which usually sits around 1/3 maybe 500-600 continuous, MAYBE.

The problem doe not become REALLY apparent until I crank it about 1/2 to 2/3 on the bass control knob.

I have done the following SINSE:

Installed a 5 farad Power Acoustik CAP, this helped a lot actually, its a temporary solution until my 0 gauge arrives.

I have ordered 50 feet of 0 gauge, I plant to make DUAL runs from my alt to my battery.

Its CCA, I know this is not as good as OFC but again doing what I can now until I can fully upgrade.

The wire is 3985 strands @ .12 MM, decent stuff. AGAIN i know its not excellent so please don't FLAME ME FOR IT.

I know you guys are gonna destroy me for saying this but the CAP actually does a DECENT job of keeping my VOLTAGE from dropping. Im somewhat impressed, also I bought a USED PA cap which only cost me 26 shipped so, again temporary solution.

 
if on long drives with the system cranked, you are experiencing starting troubles, sounds like the alternator isn't able to charge the battery properly when the system is continuously cranked.

 
I dont believe that the problems arrises necessarily on long trips, I think the key aspect is the power which i feed to the sub, The louder it is, the more power drain, which makes since, just want to know how to solve it.

I understand the symptoms, I don't know the solution.

 
yes, the louder it is, the more drain, and especially on long run, your battery will continue to drain to the point where it will have trouble starting your car. if your battery and alternator have been tested to be okay, then likely you may need a larger alternator. your current one, with your listening habits apparentlyis not keeping up. make sure your other stuff is in good working condition first, though. not sure how old your battery is, but if its old, and/or has been drained down pretty good, then you may want to replace it first.

 
It sure wouldnt hurt to replace the battery with something meant to discharge power faster. Starting batteries aren't meant for that. Even adding a 2nd batt wouldn't hurt. You can get a group 24 deep cycle marine battery from costco for $68. Can't beat that deal anywhere else. Marine deep cycles usually perform pretty well because they have to power trolling motors and survive in a rough environment.

 
stop listening to it so loud til ya upgrade... DUH?....
and I love the lame crack on AC Delco alts... best alts on the planet btw.... 90% of all HO alts are just rewound cs130 and AD240/244 ac delco alts moron...

oh ans btw ur POS european car? the brake system is all AC Delco idiot //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Delco VI to be exact...

look in the mirror good sir....

t is no reason to be rude to the guy. honestly. this forum is doing good but slowly the ignorant remarks are finding a way to re-appear

 
stop listening to it so loud til ya upgrade... DUH?....
and I love the lame crack on AC Delco alts... best alts on the planet btw.... 90% of all HO alts are just rewound cs130 and AD240/244 ac delco alts moron...

oh ans btw ur POS european car? the brake system is all AC Delco idiot //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Delco VI to be exact...
I find it interesting that you make this unwarranted claim. After speaking with a volvo parts specialist, we came to the conclusion that AC DELCO has no contract for any OEM volvo part which an 01' volvo S60 uses.

FURTHER he told me to ask you to PROVE this claim. Although Delco may manufacture aftermarket parts for volvo, they are NOT original OEM components.

Also, I CAN PROVE the fact the ORIGINAL ac Delco utilizes INFERIOR products and lower cost additives when producing their products, not just alts.

I can also further prove that AC DELCO alts have a greater FAIL rate than almost ALL other ALT brands.

I applaud you appreciation of RE-WOUND AC DELCO parts, but the truth is re-wound delco alts are NOT REAL/TRUE Delco products, produced in the same manner and with the inputs in which their OEM line is made.

LAST THOUGHT, tell me ONE domestic Manufacturer that has greater longevity than volvo, not necessarily one instance, again that would be construed as an outlier, but overall a brand which SUPPORTED BY FACTUAL STATISTICS have the tendency to function for greater periods of time, weather that be in raw years or in mileage.

AGAIN, not attacking american cars I own them too.

DON'T RESPOND if you cannot speak to the exact criteria which I have challenged you, mentioned above.

Here is an iteration:

1)Prove AC DELCO parts are OEM to volvo S60 model year 01.

2)Prove that OEM AC DELCO, not re-wound, uses superior inputs in their production of alts.

3)Prove that OEM AC DELCO, not re-wound, has a LOWER fail rate.

4)PROVE ONE DOMESTIC MANUFACTURER has longer lasting cars than volvo, STATISTICALLY, the numbers are available, just gotta look.

BUT IGNORANCE IS PROBABLY BLISS TO YOU!!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Op. you're just going to waste your 0 gauge by doing 2 runs. Trust me, one run of zero can handle the measly 120 amps your alt is putting out. There's no reason at all you need to runs for 120 amps, even at 20 feet.

 
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