New Active setup, not liking it.

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Original paper drivers were shredded, this is in my 2000 Corvette. And no, not yet, the car isn't even totally back together (door panels still off, etc). I haven't touched EQ or TA. Still messing with xovers and slopes. I will use this for a while and then decide on doing speakers in the rear quarter panel spot or doing a small sealed sub. I originally went 2 way active with a small 4 channel to keep the budget down.
For now though Ill accept the fact im not going to get sub bass out of my mids and raise the xover to 80 or 100hz with a 12db slope and go from there.

Most people that want real "full range" use 7 or 8" woofer + tweeter and really even those won't do so much below 60hz. If you want to just throw different drivers at it search around some home audio forums for "full range" or 2 way monitor type projects and see what's popular and more importantly see what people say about low extension of such drivers.

It's a real sticky wicket in that by the time you have a woofer that plays low, the very qualities that'll make it play low well make it junk for up high and vice versa. Home audio gets away with it by having a proper cabinet (typically ported) and using larger format tweeters than may be practical in a car. Supposedly there are some that do both reasonably well, but they never hold a lot of power (think 30W) and mostly you see 7 or 8" for true "full range" drivers.

Also you can simply use the fader to see if it is a phase issue with your low frequency, as has been mentioned just the acoustics of the car could be creating a null. If each side on its own is just as loud or louder than the two together, reversing phase on one may help. Running one or both tweeters out of phase is another popular trick if you have any wierd peaks, nulls or issues around crossover point.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I don't doubt that, there is plenty of room. This is built, massive cam, straight piped weekend car, I really just wanted some simple setup with a moderate budget (spent $100 on my 900.4 versus running two amps or a 5 channel) and obviously the RS180s and tweeters via ebay were cheap. Just debating if I want to dive in and do a full setup for a car that sees probably 2k miles a year.

How about two 15s infinite baffle? Wont take up much trunk space at all and should provide decent output. You dont even need a powerful amp to drive them either. Any cheap 2 channel will do.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/MCM-AUDIO-SELECT-55-3234-/55-3234

 

[dvrmstrng 5,000+ posts]

So I came home, bumped the the high pass on the mids to 63hz/12db and cranked some Dave Matthews Band (usually its rap, dubstep etc that I am playing) and the setup actually sounds fantastic. The kick drum is literally so impactful you can feel it in your chest. I think with some more tweaking I will enjoy the setup for now and think about a sub in the future.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So I came home, bumped the the high pass on the mids to 63hz/12db and cranked some Dave Matthews Band (usually its rap, dubstep etc that I am playing) and the setup actually sounds fantastic. The kick drum is literally so impactful you can feel it in your chest. I think with some more tweaking I will enjoy the setup for now and think about a sub in the future.

tried the EQ settings i PM'd you about yet?

 

[dvrmstrng 5,000+ posts]

tried the EQ settings i PM'd you about yet?

Didn't have time yet. That was just with some different genre of music.

 

[dvrmstrng 5,000+ posts]

So I drove around like this (weekend car so not too much) and just put up with the fact my 7" mids had absolutely no bass. Although I've been in the car audio world for a while I conceded and thought maybe I had set expectations too high.

Today I finally went outside and messed around some more and sure enough it was an issue with my 900.4 I don't know what I messed with (I already had the xovers set to full) but something changed. I now have great output from my Daytons.

Out of curiosity, how long could these things hold up being cross at 40hz/12db slope? Down that low at moderate volume, 25-30 on my 80PRS, they are now making enough bass/midbass for me to not even consider needing a woofer. At 80hz there is just a litttttttle left to be desired. What do you guys think?

 

[The Camry]

So I drove around like this (weekend car so not too much) and just put up with the fact my 7" mids had absolutely no bass. Although I've been in the car audio world for a while I conceded and thought maybe I had set expectations too high.
Today I finally went outside and messed around some more and sure enough it was an issue with my 900.4 I don't know what I messed with (I already had the xovers set to full) but something changed. I now have great output from my Daytons.

Out of curiosity, how long could these things hold up being cross at 40hz/12db slope? Down that low at moderate volume, 25-30 on my 80PRS, they are now making enough bass/midbass for me to not even consider needing a woofer. At 80hz there is just a litttttttle left to be desired. What do you guys think?

If your playing them and there isnt any clicking from the voice coil hitting the backplate from over excursion then you'll be fine. You most likely lowered the hpf on the mids which gave u your midbass freq back.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

Pending on power could be forever to few more secs. Your asking for sub freq from a mid freq driver.

 

[iLL Ridge 10+ year member]

With good sealing in the doors and cabin gain-- you'd be surprised at the bass output you can get out of your doors.

My optima has completely sealed doors from the factory.

The bass from the stock door pods is outstanding. Very solid.

I tested a pair of audiobahn amdh60's in my front doors.

They played like subs. At low volume I couldn't tell if my sub was playing or not.

You should definitely get some impactful bass out of those daytons.

Play with the x/over and amp tuning--- a LOT

 

[dvrmstrng 5,000+ posts]

With good sealing in the doors and cabin gain-- you'd be surprised at the bass output you can get out of your doors.My optima has completely sealed doors from the factory.

The bass from the stock door pods is outstanding. Very solid.

I tested a pair of audiobahn amdh60's in my front doors.

They played like subs. At low volume I couldn't tell if my sub was playing or not.

You should definitely get some impactful bass out of those daytons.

Play with the x/over and amp tuning--- a LOT

Will do. Doors are completely deadened and entirely sealed, spent several hours on each door. I know the sound of VC slapping, I once way over powered a set of rainbow mids. I will keep an eye (ear) on things. This setup now sounds amazing.

 

[shauncox26]

I had a pair of silver flute 6.5 mids that had incredible bass but they were paper cone. Lots of deadening, sealing and tuning got them there though it wasn't a plug and play deal. Keep tuning that's the beauty of DSP equipped headunits as you can tune tune tune tell you like it. My ex wife would hate the tuning sessions as I might spend hours outside playing music adjusting and re-adjusting. Could be why we got a divorce.

 

[nauc 10+ year member]

first, set your gain right...

JL Audio » header » Support » Tutorials » Tutorial: Input Sensitivity (Gain) Setting

heres the test tones...

Realm of Excursion

next, run the mid wide open on the low end (low pass them only)

crank it up a little to see what they do/how they sound. listen for anything funky. i use Bass Mekanik for testing, but be careful. BM is NO joke. you can fry/rip ***** easy

if all sounds good, raise the xover point for the high pass to like 200hz, turn up your stereo as loud as you plan to listen to it or until the mids sounds like azz, then start dropping the hp. somewhere around 80hz should be about right

its all about balance. you might have to raise the xover point if you like to run them real loud, or you might be able to use a lower xover point if you dont crank real loud

use the eq to fine tune

im using Oz Elite 6.5"s off a 75x2 amp. suckers make my pant legs flap

also, if your doors are sealed up tight, you might have to unseal it a tiny bit (one little spot maybe), to let it breath. that could help or hurt. just got to experiment