Need Tower project ideas/help...

Any suggestions on 2-way vs. 3-way? I looked on HT guide but some of their projects were alil too expensive...Which is better for a flatter response? I know the crossover is more difficult/complicated but how much more expensive is it?

 
It isn't really which one has a flatter response, a 2-way will have good low end and mid range response, while a 3-way will have better low-end response. With a 2-way you are really doing 2 Cross-overs (High pass for tweeter and low pass for woofer) with a 3-way you are doing a 4 cross-overs. High pass for Tweeter, low pass and high pass for mid woofer, and low pass for low woofer....

 
so 4 x-over's per tower? Shit, that could get expensive couldnt it?

Both you and the PE tech guy said something about a "zobel network"...educate me, lol.

So for simplicity and moreover price, I think I'm leaning toward a pair of 2-way monitors....or just floor standing 2-ways...

 
so 4 x-over's per tower? Shit, that could get expensive couldnt it?
Both you and the PE tech guy said something about a "zobel network"...educate me, lol.

So for simplicity and moreover price, I think I'm leaning toward a pair of 2-way monitors....or just floor standing 2-ways...
Yea, you really end up doing a lot more work with a 3-way system.

Zobel Network:

It is an Inductance Compensator, the low freq driver will have some peaks in the impedence and this will lower and smooth out the peaks so you get a better smother responce. It is sometimes integrated into the cross-over but other people recommend put it after the cross-over.

Also, you can do a true bookshelf and then just build stands which would save wood. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Yea, you really end up doing a lot more work with a 3-way system.
Zobel Network:

It is an Inductance Compensator, the low freq driver will have some peaks in the impedence and this will lower and smooth out the peaks so you get a better smother responce. It is sometimes integrated into the cross-over but other people recommend put it after the cross-over.

Also, you can do a true bookshelf and then just build stands which would save wood. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
Cool...that makes a lot of sense now. So...nowinhere starts driver selection. PE guy told me to match impedance and look for sensitivities that were close w/i 1-2db. I'm set on using that TB tweeter since I only have to buy one, lol. I'll post up possible midranges and get an opinion and then I need x-over help //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Right, if you are going with a 2-way system match the impedance of the drivers....

If you find a mid-range driver that you really love and it's twice the impedence as the tweeter and is -3db as sensitive then you can do a 2-way but double up the low drivers and it will work perfect.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Questions?

 
nope. But the tweet is 8ohms so a 16ohm mid might be hard to find...or does it work with half the impedance? links in a few of the possible drivers...

 
Tweet: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=264-822&DID=7&raid=46&rak=264-822

Dayton 6:http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-362

Hi Vi 6:http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=297-440

Dayont 6 1/2:http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-305

Dayton 7:http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-364

Dayton 8:http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-366

Usher 8:http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=296-616

Hi Vi D8:http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=297-425

Hi Vi F8:http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=297-445

yea...those all fit the bill just need some final help on which woofer size is best and then more specifically which one the individual drivers...

 
Boooo Line Arrays..... (Going to get hate mail on that comment.)
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif...Consider this Hate mail...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/furious.gif.fc81ca146dbff91fede3ed290dbc4f4c.gif

 
Anything greater than a 6 but smaller than a 10 will prolly do good. Also, keep inmind where you want to cross over so that you have a good overlap so you aren't pushing the tweeter to go too low or the mid to go too high....

2.25k to 2.75k is usually a good place to start for crossover points. Especially with the tweeter you have. So, really your mid driver should go to atleast 2.75k or 3k without going out of it's range....

 
Edited....

So out of those I got 3 on the money. You picked out the 6" Dayton, why not the 7? Is there a defining reason? I re-read your earlier edited post and saw I can do 2 mid's in series with a tweet. What about 2 6.5's? You said before that they'd have a better low-end response so would I be loosing that higher end? And Would that be a 3-way setup or still a 2-way?

 
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