Need some help sorting out this whole audio system.. (LONG!)

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smurph98gt
10+ year member

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Ugh, what a mess.

I bought this car about a year ago, and have switched it on and off daily driver duty with my other car since then. It had a sub box and a 4-channel Kenwood amp installed in the car when I bought it. The sound was pretty good, could've been better, but still decent.

Lately though, I've been hearing more small things that just don't sound so good, so I decided to go through the car and see what all is there. I started by using the cars fader and balance to see how things sound. I found out that the right side of the car only played out of the sub box, the left side of the car seemed fine.

I went and checked the speakers individually then, and found that the right door speaker was gone, the right dash speaker and right rear speaker didn't work. The rear speakers were upgraded to 6x9 Pioneers.. the dash speakers were factory. I haven't actually looked at the door speaker in the right door, but it appears to be factory. Also, the way the Ford set this up from the factory, is the dash speakers are spliced into the door speaker wires, and then the door speaker wires run to the amp. I bought a set of Infinity 3.5s for the dash, and some 6.5 Pioneers for the doors to replace them.

Now comes the mess. The right rear speaker was hooked up properly, yet still doesn't work. The sub box has 2 tweeters, and 2 mids as well. The left side works, the right side doesn't. I popped the subwoofers off and found this mess which I've attempted to illustrate here.

subbox.jpg


For whatever reason, the positive line for the mids aren't hooked up, on either the left or right side. The wiring coming out of the box and into the amp is screwy also. The negative line is hooked into the positive hookup on the amp, and the positive from the box, goes into the negative on the amp. Again, both sides though.

Now comes the mess with the amp wiring. The amp has an A and B set of hook ups. The subwoofers are hooked up to B. The rest of the speakers are hooked into the A channel of the amp. They just doubled up the connectors and then clamped them down. Here's another awesome, highly technical wiring diagram.

carspeakers.jpg


I should note.. the wiring from the speakers into the amp are assumptions. I don't know for sure if they have the wires out of polarity, or if they're even hooked up in the right order. I'm just assuming they are.

So, there we have it. I have right speakers that work, but a right subwoofer that doesn't. Left speakers that don't work, and a left sub that does. I have wires coming from the sub box plugged into the amp that don't appear to be right. I also have a set of mids in a sub box that aren't hooked up for some reason. Amongst all this though, the wiring is all done very professionally looking. Go figure.

Sorry for the long post (and terrible drawings).. but thanks for the help guys.

 
Looks like some serious ghetto wiring mixed with some blown speakers.

If I came across somthing like that in a car i just bought, I would rewire and replace most of the system.

What they did with your amp is parrelel all the speakers off the front channels and then use the back channels to power the subs (in stereo //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif ).

I would bridge the amps rear channels into a single subwoofer for bass.

Then I would ditch the shitty pioneer 6x9s and replace the front factory speakers with somthing of much better quality and power them with the amp front channels.

So what we have left is all the mid high speakers upfront and then the a single sub in the back taking care of the bass, no 6x9's or half assed reversed polarity components.

 
So basically pull the rear speakers out completely, don't even use them.

Use the front channels to power the door (and dash speakers since they're inline), and then just hook up the one subwoofer? What about the tweeter, and mids in that box? Should I just unplug those as well?

Thanks man.

 
Yep ditch em, in fact throw the old box out and get a smaller box just for the single sub. Saves weight and space.

Im really curious to see some pictures of this stuff, if you or a buddy of yours has a digital camera you could take some pics upload them to your CP then host them at Imageshack http://imageshack.us/ and just post up a thumbnail for us to look at.

What model of Kenwood amp is it? (wanna know how powerful it is)

What brand model are the subs?(wanna know if they are a good match for the amp)

What kind of components are mounted in the box (curious)

 
I'll snag some pics tonight... I got a few with my camera phone, but they were really more of the wiring inside the box. My lame drawing did a better job of illustrating that. When I had it apart I looked for part numbers and stuff, but didnt see anything on either those mids or tweeters.

Oh yea, there is a capacitor or fuse wired into the positive line coming off of the sub.. thats to block highs, right? Seems like it would be a bit stupid though to have that if you have a tweeter in the box as well, cause if its inline with the subwoofers positive, then wouldnt it also be blocking them from reaching the tweeter?

The amp is a Kenwood KAC-744 ftp://docs.kenwoodusa.com/manuals/kac744.pdf

 
Amp power ratings

front channels stereo= 40 watts RMS x2 @4ohms (55 at 2ohms)

Rear channels bridged= 110 watts rms x1 @4ohms(not 2ohm mono stable).

A single entry level sub in the back and a pair of coaxials up front would work well with that amp.

That cap should actually be to block the lows out of the speakers, you need coils for low pass.

Can't wait for the pics.

 
I took a few pics of the speakers inside the subbox.. no real markings that say who makes them or whatever. Just a generic made in taiwan or whatever.

http://smurphdesigns.com/images/subbox/

I'm just putting up a link to the high res pictures because they're big and I dont wanna f' up the tables here. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Thats a cheap ass hatchback box you pick up at flea markets and such.

Throw it out, keep the working woofer and just throw the whole dam thing out.

Go buy or make your self a decent enclosure and use it for the remaining sub after that subs blows go and buy one from a decent manufacturer that will work with 110 watts RMS.

Hatchback boxes are evil, like this one here-

plhb106ab.jpg


very evil...

Gives me shivers just looking at it, they are soo evil.

pyramidpmb17xhl2kq.jpg


 
bandpass would be worse.

the subs are junk, the horns are junk, and the ports (round holes in the corners) are junk.

all together, its all junk.

 
bandpass would be worse.
the subs are junk, the horns are junk, and the ports (round holes in the corners) are junk.

all together, its all junk.
lol, there aren't even ports.. its all speakers in that box. I'll look for, or maybe make my own enclosure, and drop the one working sub in it for now, and pick up a better sub sometime in the future. Any recommendations? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

I'll get all my new stuff installed tomorrow and hopefully working.. we'll see how ****ed this wiring really is then.

Thanks guys.

 
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smurph98gt

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