Need some Advice please

[Blang]

Hello guys first post since joining please be gentle

So let me start by saying I have a 10" skar audio vvx10v2 on a Hifonics Zeus ZRX1500.1D and I had some headlight dimming and was recommended a cap since I'm only pushing 700 watts so I got one and installed it... it helped but it's still dimming a little bit but I just ordered a second 10 and I will be upgrading to a CAB 1600.1 for its 2ohm power since I didn't think ahead. I ordered dual 2 so currently running 1 ohm but with the second it's either .5 or 2ohm so 2 it is and the cab 1600.1 pushes 1300-1600 at 2 ohms but now I need to toss the cap and order a Kinetik bat, do the big 3 and run 1/0 instead of 4awg. I have an issue tho stock alt. I drive a 2011 Nissan Versa sedan with the 1.8 and can't seem to find an alt that fits that pushes more than 80amp

So I need advice do you think the stock alt at 80 amps and handle 2 batteries (maybe 3) to supply an amp that pulls 100 amps at full tilt at 2 ohms?

also, i know mounting to the box is bad but have you seen a versa? lol there is nothing to actually mount too

also, already revised my grounding was a bad idea to run a ground from amp to cap then cap to ground so now both have separate grounds

Click to read more...

 

[jar1zx 10+ year member]

Could try a northstar battery, but in all honesty your going to be pulling more amps than alt puts out.

Depends on your listening demands.

If your wanting to play full tilt a lot your alts in trouble.....but if your going to be riding around at normal volume and just burp it for a few mins at a time your alt should do fine with an extra battery.

If you go with an agm battery make sure the starting battery is the same type.

 

[Blang]

ok, that is news to me thanks, I had no idea I needed to go AGM front and back I was just going to strap 1 in the back and stock bat in front, I also just found a Bosch, and a Duralast gold alt that is 100a for my car do you think that would work? I run the single full tilt a lot 2 will prolly do the same but if its will hurt the car to much i guess ill have to tone it down a bit

 

[kcr357 10+ year member]

Get a voltmeter, once you get below 12 turn it down. If you are bassing for long periods, extra batteries wont do anything but delay the voltage drop. Plus once the batterir s are depleted theyll be using current to recharge along side your amp.

 

[Blang]

Thanks for the information guys helps a lot to receive solid feedback instead of flame and I did forget to mention I do have a voltmeter in the car lowest I have seen was 13.2v but jumps right back to 14-14.4

 

[kcr357 10+ year member]

Seems like the alt is keeping up then. Are all the grounds and connections on par?

That amp really isnt that big...

 

[jar1zx 10+ year member]

op said he wants to go bigger on amp, and extra sub.

So his alt will not keep up if he plays full tilt a lot.

Mechman, Dc Power, Singer, Stinger, Gp, Ohio generator, and many others make great high output alts.

I would say grab a 270-320 high output and call it a day. Will cost you but next time you want to upgrade the power will be paid for and waiting on you.

Mechman and gp audio did have these on sale. I got a 320 mechman for $499 and a gp 370 for $575

Now if you do the h.o alt, get a run of 1/0 ofc (copper not cca) and send to your amp.....below 2000rms I wouldn't worrie about double runs of 1/0. You can always add runs later if you need. General rule of thumb is 1/0 for 300 amps of current flow.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

yeah alt that small with cab u need to do big 3 wires under hood 1st if u haven't.. i wouldn't run that cab below 1 ohm, peeps have done it but idk how long they'll last at that load.. u need to email whoever and see if u can return the d2 (maybe even cancel the order if u can sell other skar and get 1 good sub 12 or 15 ported to run on that cab) i understand no having room but if u had no other place for amp that box u shouldn't have ordered a cab.. coulda got orion xtr 1000 for about $229 does over 1350rms others for tad more., stuff on sale now u can get cab or skar anytime.. if u can return what u bought u be better off and then let peeps here recommend stuff..

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

You can go to my information and take a look and see what was done or installed in my 98 CRV that had an 80 amp alt, and I generally slammed all day long at 2 ohms mono.hit hard enough that it was all could do to keep my roof from creasing due to not spending any extra time or funds deadening the roof,knowing I wasnt going to keep the vehicle forever or any longer

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I took airbox out and placed a short Cold air intake on, placed a bracket upfront and put a group 78/34 AGM battery under the hood with the Big3 in 2 ga and ran 2 ga supply and placed another group 78/34 AGM in tire well,and grounded that to the rear end and placed a solid Distro block for grounding..Did the ELD Bypass and had plenty of power for over two years,and it slammed on the daily.You could have sworn I was running in a 1 ohm load..and at lower volumes it sounded very nice and clean with exception of all the plastics in the vehicle that vibrated all the time. I had my wipers in the front that would move approx 1-2"off the glass.I think I only deadened the front doors and floor board. Rest I left alone.looking at a 2 dr. 02 Tahoe to do a small system in this next go around..I may even look at a Yukon 4dr.same year model.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

So I think if you get that Big 3 done and get the largest AGM you can under the hood and the same in line/ for the rear..for that Cab 1600, @2ohms, on that 80 amp alt, I think you will be just fine man.I was at 1750 rms and did fine at full tilt driving down the highway never had any voltage issues.