Need mono sub amp for 2.5Ω load MCM 55-2421's

[rebar]

I have two 4Ω MCM 55-2421 8" woofers 120W/240W RMS/peak, In two folded horn Truck Tuba cabinets which add another 1Ω. Billfitzmaurice efficient designs really thump.

In parallel, I have a 2.5Ω load.

I'm looking for a mono amp designed to be a sub amp. It needs to have a high quality X over and remote volume knob. It also needs to have preamp outputs to send signal to my PPI 4200AM mids/highs amp powering two sets of german MB quart components.

I need a little more than 480 watts at 2.5 ohm load. But I'm unsure how that translates to today's top shelf amps and my eyes are bleeding.. I need a solid sub amp that will still be regarded as decent 10 years from now. Maybe even sought after..

Any suggestions please?

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[Jepalan]

What is your budget?

And to confirm, you need 240 RMS/ 480 Peak - Yes?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I have two 4Ω MCM 55-2421 8" woofers 120W/240W RMS/peak, In two folded horn Truck Tuba cabinets which add another 1Ω. Billfitzmaurice efficient designs really thump.
In parallel, I have a 2.5Ω load.

I'm looking for a mono amp designed to be a sub amp. It needs to have a high quality X over and remote volume knob. It also needs to have preamp outputs to send signal to my PPI 4200AM mids/highs amp powering two sets of german MB quart components.

I need a little more than 480 watts at 2.5 ohm load. But I'm unsure how that translates to today's top shelf amps and my eyes are bleeding.. I need a solid sub amp that will still be regarded as decent 10 years from now. Maybe even sought after..

Any suggestions please?

incriminator audio IA 10.1, one of the best out there. Dont worry about it having a lot of power, you can control how much power your subwoofer actually sees via gain settings. Has everything you need along with being over built like a tank on steroids. It can even be wired down to 0.5 ohms nominally with proper electrical upgrades.

Also two 4 ohm single voice coil subwoofers are wired down to 2 ohms not 2.5.

 

[rebar]

What is your budget?

I don't mind paying for quality. Convince me

And to confirm, you need 240 RMS/ 480 Peak - Yes?

Yes I assume since a single is 120W/240W

incriminator audio IA 10.1, one of the best out there. Dont worry about it having a lot of power, you can control how much your subwoofer actually sees via gain settings.

Wait.. There's no preamp out.

How do I know when I need to upgrade alternator's batteries cap's?

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

There's a arc audio kar 1000t2 for cheap

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I don't mind paying for quality. Convince me
I like that.. Thanks! But How do I know when I need to upgrade alternator's batteries cap's?

Just get everything installed and playing. Then put a digital multi-meter on your batteries, play some heavy bass songs for a few minutes and see how low your voltages are dropping. normal range is 13.8 to 14.4 volts, the electrical upgrades you should start with is Big 3, decent agm battery under the hood and if you plan on going crazy with power like over 2000 watts, then a high output alternator. With 1000 watts or less, you only need the big 3 upgrade, google it up. Capacitors are garbage useless so dont even bother.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

However, if you want a solid amp that works for a good budget at 2 ohm loads look at an alpine mrp 500 or a this amp that is on sale for christmas Q1-1200D Amplifier Its a solid amp too.

Reason why its better to have more power on tap is so you dont have to push the amp hard to push your subs and your subs will receive proper power after accounting in voltage drops, impedance rise and efficiency.

Plus, subs will be designed to be more power hungry the farther we advance in the future. A lot modern day subs have heavy motors and big voice coils and thick suspension compared to the efficient and light designs of the 80s and 90s.

 

[rebar]

I found a JL audio 12W6 sub and Alpine MRP-M450 local for 400 asking.

The arc audio kar 1000t2 is sold I believe.

Should I use a external active Xover?

Im not seeing preamp outs, as I envisioned this amp would be first, then signal to my second amp

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I found a JL audio 12W6 sub and Alpine MRP-M450 local for 400 asking.
The arc audio kar 1000t2 is sold I believe.

Should I use a external active Xover?

Im not seeing preamp outs, as I envisioned this amp would be first, then signal to my second amp

I wouldn't pay more than 280 for that

 

[rebar]

I wouldn't pay more than 280 for that

That's what I was thinking.

My audiocontrol active Xover still works, but it still would be nice to have a Xover and outputs in the sub amp I'm seeking, to send preamp signal to my mid/high amp. Please correct me if I'm wrong with that assumption.

I found a DB DRIVE SPA1250.1 local. 1250 watts RMS @ 1 ohms.

Its has rca inputs, and outputs.. I assume these outputs are pass through? Or are they the sub signal for another sub amp?

And the DB DRIVE SPA1250.1 is a class A/B. Is that a disadvantage other than making me upgrade my alternator because of lower efficiency?

Then again , my ppi 4200am is class A/B also..

Thanks

 

[rebar]

Any opinions on the DB DRIVE SPA1250.1 available on my local craigslist?

I'm tempted to offer maybe $50 as she seems motivated.

 

[basswiigee]

Any opinions on the DB DRIVE SPA1250.1 available on my local craigslist?
I'm tempted to offer maybe $50 as she seems motivated.

that db wont do rated.... and you say you need pre amp out to go to another amp?

 

[rebar]

and you say you need pre amp out to go to another amp?

It would be nice..

 

[basswiigee]

Like they said you need 2 ohm for the 4 ohm speakers, but almost any amp made will run 2/4 or ur 2.5 requested, almost all decent amps have amp out rcas... So the choices are a longgggggg list...

 

[basswiigee]

I like the prior stated audioque/soundqubed q 1200 awesome amp for the money running on now... And you don't need the pre amp out if you got a good head unit...