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would the 7000W max be too much and blow a sub?
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There is no standard on max power ratings, you can safely ignore them. Because bass is typically mono (as in, if you have headphones on and are listening to a song, the bass line in the left ear of the headphones is the same as the right ear), you don't need a 2 channel. Mono amps (usually labeled class D) are more efficient than 2 channel amps and are what you would want for your subs.
Most vehicles can run 1200-1500w with minor electrical upgrades. Anything past that and you'll need to invest in an extra battery or alternator upgrade if you don't want to damage your equipment or your vehicle. I recommend getting a solid 1500w amp (will run you around 250-300) and looking up what the "big 3" upgrade is.
In other words: There is no standard on max power ratings, you SHOULD ignore them.

 
See above and no, I believe that amp isn't going to give you even 3.5kW. Set your gains conservatively and it should work nicely for you. Not sure if space is an issue for you, but it isn't small. Also, what kind of a box are you putting those subs in? Hoping it's custom built, that's what truly makes subs shine, with ample power, of course.

 
See above and no, I believe that amp isn't going to give you even 3.5kW. Set your gains conservatively and it should work nicely for you. Not sure if space is an issue for you, but it isn't small. Also, what kind of a box are you putting those subs in? Hoping it's custom built, that's what truly makes subs shine, with ample power, of course.
i am going to make a custom ported box and space isnt a huge issue

 
There are other things that contribute to how much power your subs actually see. In practice, it's usually less than what it states on paper. Additionally, those amps put out a bit (or more) less than what's stated as well. In a real world application, it's a good fit for you. If you can pull that synergy amp, go for it.

 
There are other things that contribute to how much power your subs actually see. In practice, it's usually less than what it states on paper. Additionally, those amps put out a bit (or more) less than what's stated as well. In a real world application, it's a good fit for you. If you can pull that synergy amp, go for it.
i think im going to go with the Precision Power PPI Precision Power Ba7000.1d Black Ice Series Class D Monoblock Amp (7,000w), will that be good with my subs and my electrical in my jeep?

 
i think im going to go with the Precision Power PPI Precision Power Ba7000.1d Black Ice Series Class D Monoblock Amp (7,000w), will that be good with my subs and my electrical in my jeep?
I believe so, though you will want to set the gains on the conservative side. As with all things, common sense goes a long way. If the subs start to bottom out, turn it down. With healthy headroom you'll be happy with the extra power.

 
i think im going to go with the Precision Power PPI Precision Power Ba7000.1d Black Ice Series Class D Monoblock Amp (7,000w), will that be good with my subs and my electrical in my jeep?
I believe so, though you will want to set the gains on the conservative side. As with all things, common sense goes a long way. If the subs start to bottom out, turn it down. With healthy headroom you'll be happy with the extra power.

 
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