TheRealSpinner
Junior Member
Hi everybody. I’ve got an old 1967 Ford E-100 Econoline Pickup Truck that I use as my daily drier, and I’m getting a little tire of not having a decent stereo in it. I used to be in the Mobile Audio scene, but it’s been at least 10 years. Luckily I’m a pack-rat, and have been holding on to most of my equipment. Here’s where you all come into play. It’s time to start planning a new install, and I NEED some input.
These pictures show the exterior of the truck, as well as the interior where the speaker enclosure and amp-rack are going to go. Unfortunately, I don’t have measurements at the moment. There are currently no seats, and I still need to build a motor enclosure (aluminum) so this isn’t exactly the area, but as you can see, there is going to be plenty of room. The seats can be mounted directly to the top of everything, if necessary.
I’m looking for as much SQ as possible. My go-to music is mostly Alternatie from the late 90’s; Sublime, Cake, Marcy Playground. In addition, I also listen to the Pink Martini station on Pandora (lots of female vocals, and acoustic instruments). When I’m looking for party/energy music, I gravitate to Black Eyed Peas, Sir Mix-a-Lot, Blackalicious, Eminem, Ke$ha… you get the picture.
Ideally, I want a system that sounds great when I’m driving, but also works as a portable boombox that can provide music for the Beach BBQ. Here’s what I have to work with:
******HEAD UNIT****** (I'm actually leaning toward getting either a double-din head unit with android mirroring, or purchasing a tablet of some sort for audio controls and mirroring. Mostly, I want to use my phone's navigation controls, but see it on the dash, and have audio controls, as well as add a back-up cam):
Kenwood KDC-PS907; Pre-outs only, no internal amplifier
Sony CDX C-90; I don’t have the faceplate for this (stolen), but have been hoping one would pop up on ebay or something.
******EQUALIZATION******:
Precision Power DEQ-230; 30 Band Graphic Equalizer
Precision Power PAR650; 6 Band Dash-Mount Equalizer with fader, sub control, and multiple input control.
******AMPLIFICATION (outputs given in RMS watts)******:
Precision Power PPI PC4100 (I have 2 of these); 4x100 RMS @ 4 ohms, 4x200 RMS @ 2 ohms, 2x400 RMS @ 4 ohms. These amplifiers cannot be run at less than 4 ohms when bridged.
Precision Power PPI PC2100: 2x100 @ 4 ohms, 2x200 RMS @ 2 ohms, 1x400 RMS @ 4 ohms. This amplifier cannot be run at less than 4 ohms when bridged.
Punch 100x2 (I don’t plan on using this, but I have it, so I figured I’d throw it in the details); 2x50 @ 4 ohms.
******CAPACITOR******:
Lightning Audio Strike; 1 Farad
******DRIVERS******:
MB Quart QM 130.03 (I have 2 pairs of these); 5.25” coaxial, one pair of RKC 113 passive x-overs
Diamond Audio HEX DA 5.6; 5.25” woofers, no tweeters go with this pair of speakers
******SUBWOOFERS******:
I’ve got some woofers lying around, but none of them are really going to work with my set-up. In case anybody is local and interested, I do have a set of 3 10w0 in a JL Wedge Enclosure. Single 4 ohm load input, likes somewhere in the neighborhood of 400 watts RMS. I also have some old 15” Cerwin Vegas that I’m unsure of the model number, and I am not looking at them right now. All of these woofers are circa 1997.
As far as install, I was planning on building an entire front stage. Speakers will be below the dash, facing the rear. No Kick-panels, etc. I basically have a flat wall under the dash to work with. Originally, I planned to reuse my MB Quart coaxials and add in the Diamond Audio for extra mid-bass, but I am open to changes (based on how cheap speakers have gotten). And for subs, I’ve been looking at Image Dynamic IDQ 12” woofers to go behind the seats in a sealed enclosure. Shops around me keep suggesting using JL 12w3, but that’s also because that’s what they stock. I’d really like to hear the difference in person, in properly build boxes.
That’s where I’m at… speaker selection. I’m not interested in changing my amplifiers since I’ve been paying for storage for so long, and I know that I have some quality equipment. I figured I'd use the PC2100 (2x200 @2 ohms) to run the front 2 channels and run one of the PC4100 (400x2 @ 4 ohms) to run a pair of 12" woofers. Does anybody have suggestions for where to go from here?
I'm even looking for input for how to route my audio signal. Do I even need the 30 band EQ these days? Or is it better to rely on a head unit for this? How about the capacitor? I remember adding it to the system at a later date, and not necessarily hearing a difference...
These pictures show the exterior of the truck, as well as the interior where the speaker enclosure and amp-rack are going to go. Unfortunately, I don’t have measurements at the moment. There are currently no seats, and I still need to build a motor enclosure (aluminum) so this isn’t exactly the area, but as you can see, there is going to be plenty of room. The seats can be mounted directly to the top of everything, if necessary.
I’m looking for as much SQ as possible. My go-to music is mostly Alternatie from the late 90’s; Sublime, Cake, Marcy Playground. In addition, I also listen to the Pink Martini station on Pandora (lots of female vocals, and acoustic instruments). When I’m looking for party/energy music, I gravitate to Black Eyed Peas, Sir Mix-a-Lot, Blackalicious, Eminem, Ke$ha… you get the picture.
Ideally, I want a system that sounds great when I’m driving, but also works as a portable boombox that can provide music for the Beach BBQ. Here’s what I have to work with:
******HEAD UNIT****** (I'm actually leaning toward getting either a double-din head unit with android mirroring, or purchasing a tablet of some sort for audio controls and mirroring. Mostly, I want to use my phone's navigation controls, but see it on the dash, and have audio controls, as well as add a back-up cam):
Kenwood KDC-PS907; Pre-outs only, no internal amplifier
Sony CDX C-90; I don’t have the faceplate for this (stolen), but have been hoping one would pop up on ebay or something.
******EQUALIZATION******:
Precision Power DEQ-230; 30 Band Graphic Equalizer
Precision Power PAR650; 6 Band Dash-Mount Equalizer with fader, sub control, and multiple input control.
******AMPLIFICATION (outputs given in RMS watts)******:
Precision Power PPI PC4100 (I have 2 of these); 4x100 RMS @ 4 ohms, 4x200 RMS @ 2 ohms, 2x400 RMS @ 4 ohms. These amplifiers cannot be run at less than 4 ohms when bridged.
Precision Power PPI PC2100: 2x100 @ 4 ohms, 2x200 RMS @ 2 ohms, 1x400 RMS @ 4 ohms. This amplifier cannot be run at less than 4 ohms when bridged.
Punch 100x2 (I don’t plan on using this, but I have it, so I figured I’d throw it in the details); 2x50 @ 4 ohms.
******CAPACITOR******:
Lightning Audio Strike; 1 Farad
******DRIVERS******:
MB Quart QM 130.03 (I have 2 pairs of these); 5.25” coaxial, one pair of RKC 113 passive x-overs
Diamond Audio HEX DA 5.6; 5.25” woofers, no tweeters go with this pair of speakers
******SUBWOOFERS******:
I’ve got some woofers lying around, but none of them are really going to work with my set-up. In case anybody is local and interested, I do have a set of 3 10w0 in a JL Wedge Enclosure. Single 4 ohm load input, likes somewhere in the neighborhood of 400 watts RMS. I also have some old 15” Cerwin Vegas that I’m unsure of the model number, and I am not looking at them right now. All of these woofers are circa 1997.
As far as install, I was planning on building an entire front stage. Speakers will be below the dash, facing the rear. No Kick-panels, etc. I basically have a flat wall under the dash to work with. Originally, I planned to reuse my MB Quart coaxials and add in the Diamond Audio for extra mid-bass, but I am open to changes (based on how cheap speakers have gotten). And for subs, I’ve been looking at Image Dynamic IDQ 12” woofers to go behind the seats in a sealed enclosure. Shops around me keep suggesting using JL 12w3, but that’s also because that’s what they stock. I’d really like to hear the difference in person, in properly build boxes.
That’s where I’m at… speaker selection. I’m not interested in changing my amplifiers since I’ve been paying for storage for so long, and I know that I have some quality equipment. I figured I'd use the PC2100 (2x200 @2 ohms) to run the front 2 channels and run one of the PC4100 (400x2 @ 4 ohms) to run a pair of 12" woofers. Does anybody have suggestions for where to go from here?
I'm even looking for input for how to route my audio signal. Do I even need the 30 band EQ these days? Or is it better to rely on a head unit for this? How about the capacitor? I remember adding it to the system at a later date, and not necessarily hearing a difference...
