Need help with Active Crossover Setup - Will this work? SEE DIAGRAM I DREW OUT......

[supermaxx123 10+ year member]

Higher frequencies are easier to locate which is why putting the highs in the back will not help sound stage also, it is easier to reproduce these frequencies hence the smaller drivers needed.

 

[txdog27 10+ year member]

without drawing it, here's what i would do for a 4-way front:
3Sixty.2 (1)

Front - 1" tweeters front

Rear - 4" midrange front

Sub - 6.5 midbass front

3.Sixty.2 (2)

gtFront - 6.5" midrange front

Rear - 4" midrange rear

Sub - 15" sub

it would be nice if the HU sub out was able to feed the 3.Sixty sub in. so you retain dash sub level control.

without drawing it, here's what i would do for a 3-way front:

3Sixty.2 (1) Fed from Front HU Output

Front - 1" tweeters front

Rear - 4" midrange front

Sub - 6.5 midbass front

3.Sixty.2 (2) Fed from Rear and Sub HU Out

Front - 4" midrange rear

Rear - N/A

Sub - 15" sub

it would be nice if the HU sub out was able to feed the 3.Sixty sub in. so you retain dash sub level control.

good tips on what to use - could you give me some advice on what would be the optimal mounting locations for each single driver on each application 3-way and 4- way

and I can literally mount them anywhere in any type shape or size of enclosure or pod as I am a fiberglass wizard lol

the vehicle is an 03' dodge ram quad cab and is 100% sound deadened and sealed

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I knew this image would get used:

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

dash midrange can work well, but airspace will determine how low they will play. some aim midrange toward the rear of the opposite window, some to the dome light, some behind the dome light. everyone has preferences and since every vehicle is different, the options are limitless.

being able to fiberglass pods is an awesome skill, but being willing to cut up the vehicle to make way for adequate airspace is a commitment.

i'm not sure where you want the crossover points to be in a 4-way system between each driver. 3-way is easy to figure out. but a 4-way would have to be tested and tuned by ear.

you already have locations figured out. a 4-way will likely have mid/tweet in the apillar area, the mid in the kick, and midbass in the door. a 3-way has more options, maybe mid/tweet in the apillar and midbass in the kick, or midbass in the door, or tweet in the apillar, midrange in the kick, and midbass in the door ( i'm doing that now and am very happy with the results). doors are a PITA to seal up considering you lose a seal when you roll the window down. kicks are great for midbass but difficult to get adequate airspace.

it may be more effective to run a larger midbass driver so you can go even lower with it. an 8" midbass makes more sense in a 4-way configuration.

the main issue with having a mid up in the dash is that your PLD is longer in the range of frequencies where ITD dominate localization. T/A can fix this, but then it's a one-seat truck. the advantage is that your stage height is easy to maintain.

the other concern with 4-way is that each crossover point has the potential for phase interference. since any crossover slope greater than 6dB/oct has phase shifting; so the more crossover points you introduce, the more issues you have to overcome.

even active crossovers have phase issues:

Active Filters

i don't know what the 3Sixty.2 is doing for phase correction.

usually, the simpler the installation, the easier it is to get good results. fewer drivers have fewer issues to overcome.

 

[txdog27 10+ year member]

dash midrange can work well, but airspace will determine how low they will play. some aim midrange toward the rear of the opposite window, some to the dome light, some behind the dome light. everyone has preferences and since every vehicle is different, the options are limitless.
being able to fiberglass pods is an awesome skill, but being willing to cut up the vehicle to make way for adequate airspace is a commitment.

i'm not sure where you want the crossover points to be in a 4-way system between each driver. 3-way is easy to figure out. but a 4-way would have to be tested and tuned by ear.

you already have locations figured out. a 4-way will likely have mid/tweet in the apillar area, the mid in the kick, and midbass in the door. a 3-way has more options, maybe mid/tweet in the apillar and midbass in the kick, or midbass in the door, or tweet in the apillar, midrange in the kick, and midbass in the door ( i'm doing that now and am very happy with the results). doors are a PITA to seal up considering you lose a seal when you roll the window down. kicks are great for midbass but difficult to get adequate airspace.

it may be more effective to run a larger midbass driver so you can go even lower with it. an 8" midbass makes more sense in a 4-way configuration.

the main issue with having a mid up in the dash is that your PLD is longer in the range of frequencies where ITD dominate localization. T/A can fix this, but then it's a one-seat truck. the advantage is that your stage height is easy to maintain.

the other concern with 4-way is that each crossover point has the potential for phase interference. since any crossover slope greater than 6dB/oct has phase shifting; so the more crossover points you introduce, the more issues you have to overcome.

even active crossovers have phase issues:

Active Filters

i don't know what the 3Sixty.2 is doing for phase correction.

usually, the simpler the installation, the easier it is to get good results. fewer drivers have fewer issues to overcome.

Thank you all that info has really helped me and kept me from making a few mistakes and poor decisions.........you seem very knowledgeable about this and i am grateful for you to have taken the time to assist me with your advice.

I am going to be taking my design apart and start over and try and simplify it.......i will post up a diagram after i figure it out and would appreciation any comment, corrections, or criticism once i do......

and from the amount of views of this post so fast and the lack of actual posters.....i am sure this thread is helping many others who are trying to take their sound to the next level.......

 

[txdog27 10+ year member]

Ok everyone I went back to the drawing board on this and searched around for some components to help me do this both the way i want it and correctly. My first diagram of the setup was a big mess and not very well thought out lol.

I took alot of you guys advice and cut back on alot of the speakers and changed the locations on where i am going to mount them. From what I can tell and from what I have been told this setup should yield me total active control over every speaker in the truck......hopefully.....

Will this setup work? Is there anything wrong with it or anything that could be better?

Advice and criticism please........about to go into stage 2 which is buying all of this once I know that it is correct and will actually work and produce good results.

Here is what I got now......

 

[vaiboy 10+ year member]

Better but you still don't have time alignment on the 4" mids, plus you are running one amp more than you really need.

My suggestion, lose the M1000.4, one Matrix, and the Kicker crossover, use that money to buy another 3sixty.2 that will get you T/A for everything.

Put the 4"mids on the M2000.4 with the tweeters, Just use a DMM to set the gains and limit the output and protect your speakers.

Like this.

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