Need help tuning IDMax 12D4V3

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

You don't "need" a subsonic filter to run ported. Please don't run a Rockville amp with an ID Max. I'd rather PayPal you money to buy a better amp than see that.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

yeah rockville not great like i said bigblank had some amps for sale.. no u don't have to have ss filter to use ported box but if he has a box tuned at 43hz he should use one..

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

that infinity is a great amp.. also ppi p1000 like mine would do well on that sub., maybe u could find one used..

 

[youdoofus]

this isnt a bad choice for that sub IMO

https://soundqubed.com/product/q1-1200/

btw, everyone telling you that sub is a bad mammajamma is correct. The IDMAX's are stout little beasts

 

[Jcsaudio]

First off. Everyone has been a big help and thank you all very much! Its turning out this is much gonna be a much more costly upgrade then I had hoped. I'll be ordering the suggested wiring kit per Jcsaudio's suggestion (greatly appreciated). There's a person "near" me selling a Power Precision PC 2600.2 for 180. This looks like a pretty decent amp and although I was hoping to cap out at 100 bucks for the amp upgrade it doesn't look like anything at that price range would be suggested.
List of changes

Wiring - NVX 4 gauge OFC amp kit

Amp - ???

Enclosure - (still not sure if I should be going with a sealed or ported. Since I value SQ or SPL maybe a 2.0 cubic sealed?)

Sidenote - Currently my door speakers are running off my factory headunit and they sound great. There was a 15+ page thread over on mbworld forums for my car were a lot of input narrow down selections specifically my car given that the factory headunit puts out decent power comparable to an aftermarket radio and the chosen speakers were high efficiency ones that closely matched the factory speakers. If I wanted to amp them in the process of the upgrade the PPI 2600.2 would be able to power them okay right?

Also if anyone could link me to some detailed sources where I could read up on some nuances of car audio that would be great. I looked through some of the stickies here on the forum but there wasn't much there. I would love to educated myself first and reduce the amount of dumb questions I post.

Infinity Kappa K1000

I have this amplifier and it’s an awesome amp for the shear fact that it’s very efficient and so doesn’t tax my stock alternator.
Some good information from AudioFrog to read. https://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/. Look into Crutchfield’s tech tips too for the basic stuff.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I don't understand why someone would get a high end 1000rms sub and only feed it 100 watts. And then says he doesn't want it too loud.. In that case, should have went with a lower wattage sub and give that ID sub to someone who will give it the proper watts it deserves.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

I was thinking the exact same thing. Might be better off selling the Max and getting an ID10.

 

[Bdozers]

I don't understand why someone would get a high end 1000rms sub and only feed it 100 watts. And then says he doesn't want it too loud.. In that case, should have went with a lower wattage sub and give that ID sub to someone who will give it the proper watts it deserves.

What...? When did I ever say I wanted to drive it at 100 watts..? I don't want to be rude.. actually yes I do. First, you gave some BS rating about how 8 gauge can only power 200 watts and now you're just putting words in my mouth. I hate being the guy that gets hostile when asking for help but you haven't helped one bit. The fact is --- I have the sub and it is what it is. I purchased it on the pretext that it is a sub geared towards SQ and from my limited understanding feeding it more power just helps it play louder which is not what I'm looking for. Hence my original plan to run it with 500 watts RMS or less. That has since changed and I'll be planning to feed it as much power as it needs even if I don't plan on turning it up. Given all this-- Please if you don't have any constructive input to help me with the build please just move on... There's absolutely no point in shitting on my parade.

Back to the point

****************

During my lunch I found a local buyer that had a set of JL 12W3V3 in a sealed box with a Kenwood 9104D. Looking online, the amp looks decent and is certified for the wattages it claims (900 watt RMS @ 2ohms) and has a subsonic filter that some of the other options I looked at didn't. The person didn't want to separate the lot so I offered 270 for everything and they agreed. I'm thinking this would allow me to actually try out the W3 (initially something I was interested in but had multiple local sellers flake) and if I liked it more I could sell the IDMax's and just run this setup. Otherwise, I'll just sell the W3's so that I end up with a cheap reliable amp that can properly and safely drive my sub. Any thoughts on this approach?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I exageratted a bit...too bad you missed it. But still, my statement still stands. 200 watts for the 8 gauge was approximation...not actual....not sure how that's a BS rating. 200-500 is all I would use for 8 gauge. Anything more and I'd step it up to 4 gauge. You seem to get butthurt easily. I state facts/help people out here. But...if your gonna get your feelings hurt easy, then my suggestion is don't come to this place anymore.

 

[Bdozers]

I exageratted a bit...too bad you missed it. But still, my statement still stands. 200 watts for the 8 gauge was approximation...not actual....not sure how that's a BS rating. 200-500 is all I would use for 8 gauge. Anything more and I'd step it up to 4 gauge. You seem to get butthurt easily. I state facts/help people out here. But...if your gonna get your feelings hurt easy, then my suggestion is don't come to this place anymore.

Or to just not talk to you. The mini signature in your avatar is literally "Hurtin' feelings errrday." Everyone else that has responded so far have greatly helped with my decision to pick out parts. And you're right -- I still don't see the exaggeration at all. Just looks like you either didn't read everything I previously said or just like to talk ****. Either way... I don't want to spend any more time on you. Lets just drop it.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

I'm not familiar with that amp but ran a Kenwood kac x1r or something like that about 10 years ago and it was good not great. It was overrated and got hot faster than my other amps but never had an issue. I'm guessing as long as the amp isn't damaged it will suit you fine. I doubt it'll put out rated but it shouldn't be too far off.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

What...? When did I ever say I wanted to drive it at 100 watts..? I don't want to be rude.. actually yes I do. First, you gave some BS rating about how 8 gauge can only power 200 watts and now you're just putting words in my mouth. I hate being the guy that gets hostile when asking for help but you haven't helped one bit. The fact is --- I have the sub and it is what it is. I purchased it on the pretext that it is a sub geared towards SQ and from my limited understanding feeding it more power just helps it play louder which is not what I'm looking for. Hence my original plan to run it with 500 watts RMS or less. That has since changed and I'll be planning to feed it as much power as it needs even if I don't plan on turning it up. Given all this-- Please if you don't have any constructive input to help me with the build please just move on... There's absolutely no point in shitting on my parade.
Back to the point

****************

During my lunch I found a local buyer that had a set of JL 12W3V3 in a sealed box with a Kenwood 9104D. Looking online, the amp looks decent and is certified for the wattages it claims (900 watt RMS @ 2ohms) and has a subsonic filter that some of the other options I looked at didn't. The person didn't want to separate the lot so I offered 270 for everything and they agreed. I'm thinking this would allow me to actually try out the W3 (initially something I was interested in but had multiple local sellers flake) and if I liked it more I could sell the IDMax's and just run this setup. Otherwise, I'll just sell the W3's so that I end up with a cheap reliable amp that can properly and safely drive my sub. Any thoughts on this approach?

if amp only 2 ohm stable just make sure subs are single 4 ohm or dual 2 ohm so u can wire it to a 2 ohm final load and they'll be ok.. if not loud enough for you just get bigger amp later or get sealed box for now and get decent ported one later for them.. all this said sales everywhere right now, u can get fu 300 subs for $59 each and a pioneer or some amp for $130-$150 new (think i recd the sq 850 $149 just get 2 fu 300 d2's) u would have 2 new subs and new amp for $270., just need box..

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

if amp only 2 ohm stable just make sure subs are single 4 ohm or dual 2 ohm so u can wire it to a 2 ohm final load and they'll be ok.. if not loud enough for you just get bigger amp later or get sealed box for now and get decent ported one later for them.. all this said sales everywhere right now, u can get fu 300 subs for $59 each and a pioneer or some amp for $130-$150 new (think i recd the sq 850 $149 just get 2 fu 300 d2's) u would have 2 new subs and new amp for $270., just need box..

He has 1 sub gramps.....did you read? And he also stated he doesn't want it that loud....and yet again your suggesting things he may not want for more loudness.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Alright let's start all over. OP, do you have a budget in mind for an amp? Or I missed it someplace if you mentioned it.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

He has 1 sub gramps.....did you read? And he also stated he doesn't want it that loud....and yet again your suggesting things he may not want for more loudness.

as usual u so ready to insult me U ARE WRONG!! maybe u should read..... where he said SET of w3..