Need help tuning IDMax 12D4V3

[kcr357 10+ year member]

Its a dual 4 ohm voice coil. Your options are 2 ohms or 8 ohms. You arent running just one coil are you?

The unit is a 4 ohm unit. Any reason why it would be running at 2? I haven't measured the box but will do so tomorrow when I can find my **** measuring tape. As far as the amp goes its just something I borrowed from my friend to make sure the sub works. I don't plan on running on it anything crazy though as my car was initially ran by a shop with 8gauge since my powered unit was very weak and was sufficient. I don't have plans to run new wiring to support a better amp. I don't think I should with my stock alternator anyways (I believe its rated at 150A ---- 2011 C300)

 

[Bdozers]

Do not get the Install Bay 4 gauge wiring kit for $20 on Amazon. Its made out of **** CCA (copper clad aluminum), which is garbage. The wire in this kit will not handle the same amount of electrical load as a 4 AWG OFC cable. Get a good quality real OFC 4 gauge (oxygen-free copper) or larger wire such as those offered by Chrutchfield or NVX. https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45061_NVX-XAPK4.html https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK4/Crutchfield-CK4.html?tp=2919&awkw=216571719385&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=111687890305&awdv=c&awug=1018092&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsZCyzYqZ2wIVRL7ACh23XQXJEAQYASABEgKZUPD_BwE
Do not use this https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Complete-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B01N1SS2ZA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526983451&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=Install+Bay+4+gauge+wire+amplifier&psc=1

Thank you. I was about to order it this morning but I had to dip to a meeting. Good thing I checked back here first.

I'm assuming this would be okay and no different from the two you reference?

https://www.amazon.com/DB-Link-Maxkore-Copper-Speaker/dp/B01CIU26TM/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1527018691&sr=8-19&keywords=4+gauge+ofc+amp+kit

Its a dual 4 ohm voice coil. Your options are 2 ohms or 8 ohms. You aren't running just one coil are you?

um..... ah ha ha ..... is that why there's two positive/negative terminals on the sub? I thought that was for daisy-chaining a pair together... I'm just gonna disconnect this thing until I'm sure I know what the hell I'm doing.

 

[Jcsaudio]

You get what you pay for and there is no way around that. I cannot verify that name brand and I haven’t heard of them so I do not recommend them. You are better off purchasing from the name brands or going to a reputable shop nearby and purchasing it by the foot. Some here use welding wire but I’m not sure that has the same strand count and flexibility. Sometimes Sonic Electronix runs specials or if you sign up on their mailer you get coupons of as much as 20% off. I only recommended those two kits because I’ve purchased them both and they are of great qaulity with NVX having the better designed fuse block. Power wiring is definitely not the area you want to cheap out on especially for the amplifier required for that subwoofer.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

From everything I read 8 gauge should support up to 500watts no problem. Is this not the case?

if u have to run wire always use 4ga min., in case u upgrade amp or add a 2nd.. also u posted the sub is a d4 THAT MEANS DUAL 4 OHM sub can pretty much only be ran at 2 or 8 ohm., u need to figure that out before doing anything else.. u will need at 2ohm mono amp an on a idmax i would do a 1k rms amp or close to it, 850 at least..

 

[Bdozers]

First off. Everyone has been a big help and thank you all very much! Its turning out this is much gonna be a much more costly upgrade then I had hoped. I'll be ordering the suggested wiring kit per Jcsaudio's suggestion (greatly appreciated). There's a person "near" me selling a Power Precision PC 2600.2 for 180. This looks like a pretty decent amp and although I was hoping to cap out at 100 bucks for the amp upgrade it doesn't look like anything at that price range would be suggested.

List of changes

Wiring - NVX 4 gauge OFC amp kit

Amp - ???

Enclosure - (still not sure if I should be going with a sealed or ported. Since I value SQ or SPL maybe a 2.0 cubic sealed?)

Sidenote - Currently my door speakers are running off my factory headunit and they sound great. There was a 15+ page thread over on mbworld forums for my car were a lot of input narrow down selections specifically my car given that the factory headunit puts out decent power comparable to an aftermarket radio and the chosen speakers were high efficiency ones that closely matched the factory speakers. If I wanted to amp them in the process of the upgrade the PPI 2600.2 would be able to power them okay right?

Also if anyone could link me to some detailed sources where I could read up on some nuances of car audio that would be great. I looked through some of the stickies here on the forum but there wasn't much there. I would love to educated myself first and reduce the amount of dumb questions I post.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

First off. Everyone has been a big help and thank you all very much! Its turning out this is much gonna be a much more costly upgrade then I had hoped. I'll be ordering the suggested wiring kit per Jcsaudio's suggestion (greatly appreciated). There's a person "near" me selling a Power Precision PC 2600.2 for 180. This looks like a pretty decent amp and although I was hoping to cap out at 100 bucks for the amp upgrade it doesn't look like anything at that price range would be suggested.
List of changes

Wiring - NVX 4 gauge OFC amp kit

Amp - ???

Enclosure - (still not sure if I should be going with a sealed or ported. Since I value SQ or SPL maybe a 2.0 cubic sealed?)

Sidenote - Currently my door speakers are running off my factory headunit and they sound great. There was a 15+ page thread over on mbworld forums for my car were a lot of input narrow down selections specifically my car given that the factory headunit puts out decent power comparable to an aftermarket radio and the chosen speakers were high efficiency ones that closely matched the factory speakers. If I wanted to amp them in the process of the upgrade the PPI 2600.2 would be able to power them okay right?

Also if anyone could link me to some detailed sources where I could read up on some nuances of car audio that would be great. I looked through some of the stickies here on the forum but there wasn't much there. I would love to educated myself first and reduce the amount of dumb questions I post.

that amp does 150x2 so be great for for front with gain low but u can get a 4 channel pioneer new like tested very well for like $125 or so walmart etc but just get most any ok 2 channel $90 (or used kenwood etc $30-$80) for fronts run rear off hu.. back to sub amp., look for amp that does 800 or more at 2 ohm just a mono block class d is what u need not 2 channel.. rockville has some, also kicker, jbl, infinity are some of the monos that do max power at 2 ohm

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

For the ID Max, look into the JBL Gtr-1001 for $180 at Crutchfield. That will power that ID Max perfectly and is very efficient (less draw on electrical).

It doesn't have a subsonic filter but it kinda sounds like you want a sealed setup anyways.

 

[evilmonstertruk Premium Member]

For the ID Max, look into the JBL Gtr-1001 for $180 at Crutchfield. That will power that ID Max perfectly and is very efficient (less draw on electrical).

That's a great price for a underrated sweet amp.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

That's a great price for a underrated sweet amp.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I just purchased a scratch and dent one from Crutchfield for $145 to power 2 IDQ 10's. Pretty excited to get the box built.

 

[Bdozers]

that amp does 150x2 so be great for for front with gain low but u can get a 4 channel pioneer new like tested very well for like $125 or so walmart etc but just get most any ok 2 channel $90 (or used kenwood etc $30-$80) for fronts run rear off hu.. back to sub amp., look for amp that does 800 or more at 2 ohm just a mono block class d is what u need not 2 channel.. rockville has some, also kicker, jbl, infinity are some of the monos that do max power at 2 ohm

I see. I was reading that you could run a sub and front set of speakers off a 2 channel so I thought that would work. I did see the rockville one you were talking about. It fit the bill on paper and then I saw it was only running a 60A fuse when its rating itself at 1000W RMS. Doesn't help that I don't really see anyone running them on the forums either.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

I see. I was reading that you could run a sub and front set of speakers off a 2 channel so I thought that would work. I did see the rockville one you were talking about. It fit the bill on paper and then I saw it was only running a 60A fuse when its rating itself at 1000W RMS. Doesn't help that I don't really see anyone running them on the forums either.

Definitely get a mono for the sub. You have a kicka$$ sub so please treat it right with the power it needs. You can also get the Pioneer 9601 for $160ish (800 at 2 ohms). If I were you, I'd go sealed because it's a lot easier to do without screwing up tuning and you can always change later if you desire it.

 

[Bdozers]

Definitely get a mono for the sub. You have a kicka$$ sub so please treat it right with the power it needs. You can also get the Pioneer 9601 for $160ish (800 at 2 ohms). If I were you, I'd go sealed because it's a lot easier to do without screwing up tuning and you can always change later if you desire it.

I'm actually leaning towards the JBL you posted earlier but I noticed its lacking an input for a remote controller.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

I'm actually leaning towards the JBL you posted earlier but I noticed its lacking an input for a remote controller.

I don't use bass knobs so it doesn't bother me but I know some people that have to have them. I have never used one so I'm pretty used to it. Honestly, I wouldn't let that deter you from that amp. The Infinity k1000 (which is the same as this amp besides heatsink, subsonic filter, and db meter) was dyno'd by bigblank69 and put out over 1200 certified with mid 80's efficiency. Mines coming in Thursday so if you want to wait I can give you my honest impression

 

[Bdozers]

I don't use bass knobs so it doesn't bother me but I know some people that have to have them. I have never used one so I'm pretty used to it. Honestly, I wouldn't let that deter you from that amp. The Infinity k1000 (which is the same as this amp besides heatsink, subsonic filter, and db meter) was dyno'd by bigblank69 and put out over 1200 certified with mid 80's efficiency. Mines coming in Thursday so if you want to wait I can give you my honest impression

That's true. I guess once I actually do a proper tune I shouldn't need to ever mess with it. I can definitely wait for your impressions.

Current list of choices

Pioneer GM-D8601

Pioneer GM-D9601

Kenwood KAC - 9106

JBL GTR 1001

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='Bdozers']I'm actually leaning towards the JBL you posted earlier but I noticed its lacking an input for a remote controller.[/QUOTE]
listen u can't bridge 2 channels to a d4 sub this is y we are telling u to get a mono amp.. the jbl1000 is a good amp but it doesn't have ss filter which u need if running a ported box especially high tuned prefab., strongly suggest u get amp with ss filter.. also rockville have tons of amps they list ratings to compare to amps like hifonics look for the cea rating u would need db 13 or db14.. other amps are better like kicker infinity i highly recommend that, it tested 1214rms by bigblank on here this is his channel (amp is $216 i think on amazon) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IswlrxMYcdM maybe @bigblank69 has 2ohm amp he can sell u..