Need help making my upgrade decisions

[Eddie_24 10+ year member]

I already posted a thread about my plan to upgrade my system... It's still an intact plan.

I have no sub-woofer amp at this point due to having to send my BRZ1700.1D back to sonic due to it being defective. So my first priority is buying a new amplifier. I'm going to have about 260 to use on sonic for my next purchase, and I'm going to toss about 350 from my next paycheck into my search for an amplifier. After taking peoples advice on here, I've decided to take that 260 store credit and use it on other means: 0 AWG to do the Big 3, and maybe put a 2nd XS battery in my trunk.

So I'll have about 350 to spend on a amplifier... I was looking at the Soundstream Rubicon 2500RMS from OCS (Online Car Stereo). I like the RMS power it does at 1 OHM, gives me room for advancement in my subs. Is the Rubicon a good choice? It has a sweet signal to noise ratio of 105, I definently dig that.

I won't have the subs upgraded for a few weeks after I buy the amp (due to bills)... I plan to buy 2 DC Level 3s or maybe 2s (depends on my money situation) and wire them to 1 OHM to whatever amp I buy. A custom box will be built for these subs to go into the trunk of my Chrysler Cirrus, I'll give each sub around 2 cubes a piece if I can. What should I have the box tuned to? To optimize my SPL and still have good sound quality? Because I mean I want it to be meter friendly but it's still going to be my every day street beater as well. I'm not looking to break any records or anything, just be really impressive.

-Off topic... If I hooked my 2 Kicker CVRs (wired to 2 OHMs) to the Rubicon(or whatever I buy) and kept the gains low while I wait to buy my new subs and box would that be okay? I mean sure I'm buying new/better subs but I don't want to see these Kickers get burnt up, I'm just having withdraws from not having a booming system in my car lol. They would be in a sealed box for the time being.

-I just seen that the rubicon isnt a class D, it's just a mono amp. Should that affect my choice?

Click to read more...

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

Classes have nothing to do with the amout of channels they have.

For just a simple street beater I would get 2 audiopipe apsm-1500's, wire each to 1 ohm, and you will have tons of power and fall under your budget.

Just get your subs in a dual 2 configuration and run 1 to each amp.

Simple, cheap, small footprint.....

 

[Eddie_24 10+ year member]

I know classes have nothing to do with the amount of channels they have lol

I''ve just always been under the impression a class d mono amp is better than just a plain mono amp

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

I know classes have nothing to do with the amount of channels they have lol I''ve just always been under the impression a class d mono amp is better than just a plain mono amp

Most are a combination with emphasis on the Class D part. The apsm is prone to vibration failures, Which I have heard about the SS RUBI as well, just not as often. You get what you pay for in both cases. You want the cheapest 1500 watt amp, buy it. just don't be disappointed when it breaks down.

Class D = Digital True A/B =Analog/Bi-Polar

WoofersEtc.com - SAX-1200D - Sundown Audio 1200W 1-Channel Monoblock Amplifier

I would suggest with your budget, checking with DC or DD and see what prices they have on their Amps in the 1500 watt area....you might get a deal.

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

Dont spend too much on battery try to find a place that rebuilds them in your area, where i am i bought a battery for $26, they also advise me the big 3 is not necessary, im running brz1700.1d and a rockford pbr 300x4.

you want at least the calss d, these amp runs better and does not **** up too much battery power

the audiopipe apsm 1500 i will also recommend $125 per amp and you can strap them for 2ohms, just dont hook it up to the box

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

Dont spend too much on battery try to find a place that rebuilds them in your area, where i am i bought a battery for $26, they also advise me the big 3 is not necessary, im running brz1700.1d and a rockford pbr 300x4.
you want at least the calss d, these amp runs better and does not **** up too much battery power

the audiopipe apsm 1500 i will also recommend $125 per amp and you can strap them for 2ohms, just dont hook it up to the box

Please stop talking......

 

[4OZGLOVES 10+ year member]

Dont spend too much on battery try to find a place that rebuilds them in your area, where i am i bought a battery for $26, they also advise me the big 3 is not necessary, im running brz1700.1d and a rockford pbr 300x4.
you want at least the calss d, these amp runs better and does not **** up too much battery power

the audiopipe apsm 1500 i will also recommend $125 per amp and you can strap them for 2ohms, just dont hook it up to the box

Go to bed son and let people who know what there talking about help this guy.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

the rubi's are ok at best if you wanna spend your cash a a good amp then the sundown recommended or a ab phantom,if you like the ab amp hit me up for a price.

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='mylows10']the rubi's are ok at best if you wanna spend your cash a a good amp then the sundown recommended or a ab phantom,if you like the ab amp hit me up for a price.[/QUOTE]

you have very good prices too.

if you need anything let @mylows10 help you out. he has great CS. and wont BS. if you need a box for a build hit me up for a design.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='CAT MAN']you have very good prices too.

if you need anything let @mylows10 help you out. he has great CS. and wont BS. if you need a box for a build hit me up for a design.[/QUOTE]
thanks tony

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

Go to bed son and let people who know what there talking about help this guy.

my lights does not dim my battery stays charge and i dont have the big 3 is this what your b i tching about?

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

Please stop talking......

very rude, why dont you stop talking with your dual amps that will be too powerful when he was just getting the BRZ 1700, I would suggest to keep the brz 1700 no big 3 and get a 2nd battery from a place that rebuilds them.

I am just trying to save you money, another option is go higher on the brz like the 2100, the 1700 is not strapable

 

[4OZGLOVES 10+ year member]

my lights does not dim my battery stays charge and i dont have the big 3 is this what your b i tching about?

The big 3 should always be your first upgrade in electrical. It costs 10-30 bucks. Ive also never been a fan of hifonics after the takeover. Why not buy used off the forum. I just sold an old school bd1500 to a member for 215 that would shit all over that brz.

 

[Eddie_24 10+ year member]

First... I will never buy another Hifonics product, massive pieces of **** since their takeover as someone else already stated. I had the BRZ 1700.1D and it couldnt push my 2 Kicker CVRs to my expectations, what makes you think its going to push 2 DC Level 3s? lmao It's a very non-efficient amp, you get what you pay for I guess.

I will definently be hitting you up for a box design, I've never built one and I don't want to waste money on the materials and end up creating a hunk of ****.

Just trying to make smart investments for my stereo system with my money available. I know DC Subs speak for themselves, so they're the company I plan to buy my subs from.

The amp situation is still up in the air. I like the Sundown amp that was recommended.

 

[imp4pdabest 10+ year member]

Dont spend too much on battery try to find a place that rebuilds them in your area, where i am i bought a battery for $26, they also advise me the big 3 is not necessary, im running brz1700.1d and a rockford pbr 300x4.
you want at least the calss d, these amp runs better and does not **** up too much battery power

the audiopipe apsm 1500 i will also recommend $125 per amp and you can strap them for 2ohms, just dont hook it up to the box

Full of failure.