Need help, amp problem!

OC*SS
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I lost output on my Orion XTR Prp 2400 yesterday. It was playing normal, then the bass started to fade out (on and off), then went completely out. The amp light is still on, and I tested the output with a volt meter and is still putting out 12 volts.

I also pulled the subs and checked all connections, everything looks good.

I sensed something wrong with this amp from the beginning. It didn't impress me at all pushing 2 15" H2's, and I'm a newb at car audio. It definitely didn't seem anywhere close to 2400 watts (sounded good inside, but barely audible outside the car), even with the trunk open. Wired at 2 ohms, and sealed box. Is my amp fried?

 
ttt someone help, please! I need my bass and don't know where to start //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif .

 
Yes, I mentioned in my post that all connections are tight and I am getting 12V from the power and ground terminals on the amp...

 
So I picked up my amp from repair yesterday, hooked it up, and nothing...no sound still!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif All the outputs and rca input is where it should be (voltage), the amp seems fine, so now what? I don't think the subs are blown, they still have full suspension when I press on the cones, so even if they were blown, they would still put out some kind of sound right?

 
Is your remote lead from the deck still providing 12V to the amp? Do you have a fuse or breaker under the hood you could reset or replace? Distro block fuses? I have had fuses that look good but have become detached at the base where it is not visible to the eye.

Make sure you have +12V at the remote lead and the incoming power lead.

Recheck your ground wire connection and make sure it is tight and the metal is bare around it so you get a good ground.

Get a multi-meter and make sure that the subwoofer is not reading open (no resistance).

See if that helps.

 
I have a breaker under the hood that I reset. To tell you the truth I didn't even check the distro block fuses, but the amp wouldn't even power up if it were any of the fuses before the amp, right?

Same with the remote lead? Because the amp is getting power, I'm reading 12.4V at the power input and the speaker outputs are also putting out voltage.

I guess the next thing would be to check resistance on the voice coils?

 
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OC*SS

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