Need advice for headunit install for 13 Dodge durango

[Donwuan]

Little rusty with radio installation.

Trying to install one of the Android head units atoto a6. Got the wiring harness setup but need help with a few wires.

I plan on attaching the grounds to bare metal behind the radio.

Since the Dodge harness has no 12v cable I planned on tapping into the cigarette lighter. Any easier wire to tap into. Seems the DC port is behind the bezel without easy access. Any tips here?

I have acc/key+ (red) tied with the steering wheel controller red wire? Is this correct?

Only wire on the Dodge harness that's not connected is the power antenna. No need correct?

Any help is appreciated. Figure I would try to save some money with the quotes I got. I know I'm making it more complicated than it is.

Connectors are temporary and will be replaced.

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[hispls 5,000+ posts]

NO NO NO!

DO NOT piggyback onto the cigarette lighter to power anything. Some vehicles have fuses for accessories that aren't used by anything factory or you should grab your switched power from the ignition bundle (which is actually a chunky wire with adequate fusing) or ideally run a dedicated wire back from the battery.

Check a Dodge forum and see if there's a good place to grab +12V. I know my brother's F250 had no ACC to the factory head unit but it did have a few wires from the factory connected to nothing that could be used for accessories. I think the idea is truck manufacturers expect you to install CB radio, offroad lights, etc. and leave you a few wires to do so.... perhaps Dodge has something similar? Anyway, Google is your friend. Absolutely anything is better than using the lighter IMO..

"power antenna" is rarely needed in modern vehicles but often is synonymous with a remote turn on for your amp(s).

 

[Donwuan]

NO NO NO!
DO NOT piggyback onto the cigarette lighter to power anything. Some vehicles have fuses for accessories that aren't used by anything factory or you should grab your switched power from the ignition bundle (which is actually a chunky wire with adequate fusing) or ideally run a dedicated wire back from the battery.

Check a Dodge forum and see if there's a good place to grab +12V. I know my brother's F250 had no ACC to the factory head unit but it did have a few wires from the factory connected to nothing that could be used for accessories. I think the idea is truck manufacturers expect you to install CB radio, offroad lights, etc. and leave you a few wires to do so.... perhaps Dodge has something similar? Anyway, Google is your friend. Absolutely anything is better than using the lighter IMO..

"power antenna" is rarely needed in modern vehicles but often is synonymous with a remote turn on for your amp(s).

Thank you for the reply.
I spent my whole day off yesterday researching and for some reason therebis very little information out about gen 3 Dodge Durango. 1 video on YouTube with a Durango and 1 with a Dodge avenger.

I plan on working on this tonight and tomorrow.

Should the key+, acc and steering wheel controller all share the same power source?

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[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Thank you for the reply.
I spent my whole day off yesterday researching and for some reason therebis very little information out about gen 3 Dodge Durango. 1 video on YouTube with a Durango and 1 with a Dodge avenger.

I plan on working on this tonight and tomorrow.

Should the key+, acc and steering wheel controller all share the same power source?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Some vehicles have multiple accessory wires on the ignition bundle. Sometimes 2 are redundant (just the second wire to handle all the current). I believe all ACC power should go down when your key is in the "start/crank" position and all should stay on in "run" position.

That would be my go-to. The big worry is that the fuse and wire for the lighter is probably barely adequate for the current the lighter actually draws. If you can't google up where people jack in for a radio swap, see what guys are doing for backup cameras, trail lights, or other similar accessories. Lighter should of course function in theory, but I've always been a bit nervous of messing with that. Good luck and if you find anything interesting post it here so the next guy that google's the topic can see what works and does not work.

 

[Donwuan]

Some vehicles have multiple accessory wires on the ignition bundle. Sometimes 2 are redundant (just the second wire to handle all the current). I believe all ACC power should go down when your key is in the "start/crank" position and all should stay on in "run" position.
That would be my go-to. The big worry is that the fuse and wire for the lighter is probably barely adequate for the current the lighter actually draws. If you can't google up where people jack in for a radio swap, see what guys are doing for backup cameras, trail lights, or other similar accessories. Lighter should of course function in theory, but I've always been a bit nervous of messing with that. Good luck and if you find anything interesting post it here so the next guy that google's the topic can see what works and does not work.

Luckily someone on Facebook pointed me in the right direction. There is a pac harness that actually includes 12v acc unlike the metra kits.
It's a lot more expensive though. Assuming that's why most just hook there's up to cig lighter and such.

I was ready to route wire through firewall and tap into fuse box. Going to buy the pac harness for easy install.

Thx again

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RadioPRO4 Interface for Chrysler Vehicles with CAN bus

This is the harness needed.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Luckily someone on Facebook pointed me in the right direction. There is a pac harness that actually includes 12v acc unlike the metra kits.
It's a lot more expensive though. Assuming that's why most just hook there's up to cig lighter and such.

I was ready to route wire through firewall and tap into fuse box. Going to buy the pac harness for easy install.

Thx again

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

RadioPRO4 Interface for Chrysler Vehicles with CAN bus

This is the harness needed.

Probably worth the money. WAY easier, cleaner, and more reliable than having to tap ANYTHING.

Good find.