Need advice and tutelage: connecting 4 amps to hu, and question about processor/EQ

[Exiled 10+ year member]

Ok first question:

I am about to begin the installation I have been slowly building up for the past couple years.

I have an Eclipse AVN52D hu (will list spec reference at end of post), how do I hook up my four(4) amps from preouts on the back of the HU? Specifically RCAs and remote wire...Would I daisy chain them all or would they each get their own rm or what?

Amps: one Exile x300.2, one Exile sm400.4, two Exile x1200.1

The sm400.4 will be powering a component set of 5.25" w/ crossover and tweets as well as a set of 6.5" coaxial speakers. **I would also like to keep the stock tweeters active as well as they still sound nice and are in a great location. ie it would look awkward if the were removed.

The x300.2 will be for a set o coaxial 6x9" speakers

The two x1200.1 amps will EACH be powering a single Exile XP12 woofer. (two subs, two amps)

Secondly, any Hyundai Tiburon owners have any suggestions as to amp placement of the 300/400?

They are all in excellent mechanical and cosmetic condition so I would like to show the off if possible....but I have no idea where they could go (preferably NOT in the trunk).

And lastly, with this Eclipse HU would I benefit at all from adding an extra signal processor and or an additional Equalizer?

Thank you in advance.

Eclipse AVN info in question:

Digital Signal Processor: The unit's DSP offers three sound adjustments for total audio control:

* Soundfield Control: The DSP's Soundfield Control features 5 distinctive acoustic environments to match your listening tastes: Concert, Live, Cathedral, Club, and Theater.

* 7-Band Parametric EQ: Using the touch screen controls, you can adjust the following EQ bands +/-10dB in 2dB steps: Band 1: (63Hz, 80Hz, or 100Hz), Band 2: (125Hz, 160Hz, or 200Hz), Band 3: (250Hz, 315Hz, 400Hz, or 500Hz), Band 4: (630Hz, 800Hz, 1kHz, or 1.25kHz), Band 5: (1.6kHz, 2kHz, 2.5kHz, or 3.15kHz), Band 6: (4kHz, 5kHz, 6.3kHz, or 8kHz), and Band 7: (10kHz, 12.5kHz, or 16kHz). You can select the Q Factor from Q1 (Wide), Q2 (Normal) or Q3 (Narrow). In addition, the unit's EQ has five memory presets for easy recall. You can also set the EQ to Flat.

* Listening Position: The digitally time-aligned listening position settings approximate the ideal position of being equidistant from the speakers. You can select one of four listening positions: front left, front right, all front, or all rear. You can also set the balance and fade volume controls using the touch controls.

Circle Surround II: The AVN5510's offers SRS Circle Surround II (CS II), an advanced surround sound decoder that enables multi-channel surround sound output using surround encoded, stereo, or mono material. CS II features two patented SRS post processing technologies; Dialog Clarity for clearer vocal intelligibility and TruBass for improved low frequency response. CS II works well in the car environment because it is extremely forgiving regarding speaker placement and listener location.

TruBass: SRS TruBass is a signal processing technology for bass enhancement. It uses psychoacoustics and speaker driver physics to increase the perception of bass while decreasing demands on the driver.

Harmonizer: When playing MP3 or WMA files, the Harmonizer helps recreate the depth lost when the files were compressed. Setting options are high, low, and off.

5-Volt, Low-Impedance Preamp Outputs: To assure a clean, strong signal to connected amplifiers, the AVN6600 has 3 pairs of 5-volt preamp outputs with an impedance of 55Ω. High-voltage, low-impedance outputs give you a very high signal-to-noise ratio and a wide dynamic range.

Click to read more...

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

hmph too many speakers to worry bout time alignment. i say ditch the 6x9s and the 6.5s. if u can fit a set of 6.5 components in the front without to much modification id go with the one set on the 4004 active and time-aligned

ditch the factory tweets and put your new tweets in there location shouldnt be to hard a dremel makes quick work of plastic panels.

the rear 6x9s are hard to run time aligned and with the proper setup of the front doors you wont need them. sound-deadener and sealing up the doors will make a huge difference for the mid-bass response as well as making your car more sound-proofed against out side sound.

for a amp location to show the amps off well all i can think of is the back deck but that just screams steal me

 

[Exiled 10+ year member]

hmph too many speakers to worry bout time alignment. i say ditch the 6x9s and the 6.5s. if u can fit a set of 6.5 components in the front without to much modification id go with the one set on the 4004 active and time-aligned
ditch the factory tweets and put your new tweets in there location shouldnt be to hard a dremel makes quick work of plastic panels.

the rear 6x9s are hard to run time aligned and with the proper setup of the front doors you wont need them. sound-deadener and sealing up the doors will make a huge difference for the mid-bass response as well as making your car more sound-proofed against out side sound.

for a amp location to show the amps off well all i can think of is the back deck but that just screams steal me

I guess I forgot to mention a few vital pieces of information.

I have a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon stock speakers are tweeters in the A pillars, 6.5" in doors, 6x9" in rear.

also, it is a hatch - meaning no rear deck.

My trunk area, back seat, and doors are completely covered in fatmat - sound dampening is covered.

The idea for placement of these new speakers are same locations as stock, and 5.25 in the kick panels.

I have had a set of MTX 6.5 and 6x9 speakers in the car along with the Eclipse deck for over a year and the time alignment has never been an issue, I guess I don't see how it would be one now?

I will not be ditching any of my speakers, especially the two main sets. I appreciate your reply, but I do not feel it would work in my situation.

does anyone else have any ideas for me, or suggestions?

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

unless your going to run the 6.5's and the 5.25s and tweets in a 3 way setup the i wouldnt run the 5.25's i also would forget about the rear fill and rip out the factory tweets.

if done right you will actually get better sound with just the 6.5's and tweets than you will with just having multiple speakers all over the place.

with the way your talking about setting things up your going to run into a bunch of cancellation and staging issues.

 

[Exiled 10+ year member]

I will replace the factory tweeter with the new ones as both of you have suggested. I am new to this and because I am new I am having difficulties understanding where the problem is? In my mind, all I am doing is upgrading the speakers that are already there along with giving them more power (amps vs deck), and adding one new set of speakers to what isalready there. The reason for this is I am under the understanding that different cone surfaces and speaker sizes have sertain frequency responses that are either more responsive or are easier for the partiular speaker to produce.

Am I wrong, or am I mislead in thought that I'll have a broader frequency range?

Also, am I wrong in believing that with having the rear speakers I am getting more depth in the music? Kinda like surround sound, even though I am missing the center channel.

How would I run those in a three way setup? Is there anything out of the ordinary required for the wiring?

Sorry, I am trying to learn. :-(

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

your right to an extent on the cone area and frequency response, but that only comes into play if you cross the speakers over to play correctly and not have massive overlap, which is what youll likely run into with your plan.

having rear fill will give you "surround sound" effect, but when it comes to actual sq your sound should be coming from the front glass as if you were sitting in front of an orchestra. anything that draws you into the rear of the car (or pulls the sound stage to the rear) is a negative effect.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

you are correct in that certain speaker sizes generally reproduce certain frequency ranges better than others. but like phoniex said unless this is a three way set up in which u would need to either actively run off of an amp or get a good set of passive x-overs. personally if you go three-way id pick up a 4 inch speaker instead of a 5.25 would fill the gap better. not that there is even a need for a mid in this set-up anyway. generally mid are used when 8inch midbass speakers can only play up to 400 hz then the mid would take over 400-3k and tweet 3k on up. and like i stated before if your doors are not sealed and deadened dont expect great midbass

rear speakers can add that depth which you are talking about but in most cases leaving the factory in will give you what you want without hurting your pocket book. and amping them is generally a waste due to the fact that you would have to turn the amp way down to achieve proper staging.

old sq competitor phrase "keep it stupid simple" less components mean less to go wrong and more time u can spend making the key components work better for you

 

[Exiled 10+ year member]

Ok, that does make sense, I never thought about the overlap and I can see where that could get in the way.

As I think about it now, generally I have the fade set to either +2 or +3 to the front. I like the majority of the sound coming from the front, but I have heard a couple setups that were lacking the rear fill and it just sounded like it was missing something... Idk, just wish there was a way to test it all before installing. That way I can get a better understanding of how the speakers affect each other and the acoustics, as well as how it sounds as a whole.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Ok, that does make sense, I never thought about the overlap and I can see where that could get in the way.
As I think about it now, generally I have the fade set to either +2 or +3 to the front. I like the majority of the sound coming from the front, but I have heard a couple setups that were lacking the rear fill and it just sounded like it was missing something... Idk, just wish there was a way to test it all before installing. That way I can get a better understanding of how the speakers affect each other and the acoustics, as well as how it sounds as a whole.

you'd be pretty amazed at what a real sq car sounds like. for instance normally a competitor only has

5 to 6 speakers: 2 tweets, 2mids, 1 or 2 subs or

7 or 8 speakers: 2 tweets,2 mids,2 midbass, 1 or2 subs

in which the only sound source behind them is the subs which should sound like they are in front of you and some actually are.

but all and all true sq normally isnt fun to listen to most people raise the bass above normal levels others turn the tweets up to ear piercing levels, i for one like my mid bass to be elevated as i like the double kick bass of a rock song to be really strong and present in my vehicle.

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

it is hard to figure things out for the first time. so take it from guys that have either done it themselves at some point or have heard a few people do it (or both)

generally just tossing in speakers doesnt end very well.

a nice 6.5'' comp set for the front and if you want to a set of 6x9's in the back a dedicated mids/midbass will likely be your best option.

 

[Exiled 10+ year member]

Thank you guys, I guess it's back to the drawing board //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Thank you guys, I guess it's back to the drawing board //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif

just remember asking questions even to something u are mostly sure on is an easy way to keep yourself from spending unnecessary money and even if u get picked at doing something the right way is definitely worth it.

and id say u might just want to tweek your design not scrap it