krisfnbz
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Veteran
I kind of ruled out going active on my setup but now I am not sure after your statement above.
Going active is not that difficult. I will give you the basic run down of it though, but PLEASE feel free to search "what is active" to learn more in depth about crossover slopes and in depth reasoning of the concept.what do i need to go active? 4way amp 2x mids 2x tweets? do i need an equilizer? active means you ditch the crossover box and control the xover with the amp? someone give me a basic setup. Im looking at those ID oem Mids on here for $90 from hess. and ill probably be going with 2 IDQ12v3's sealed here shortly. and i already have a jbl gto75.2 that does 90+watts to each channel.
Running active is powering your speakers(each mid and each tweeter) directly from the amplifier. You dont use a crossover to send the highs to the tweeter and the lows to the mids, your Head unit(Processing device) does that job. In which YOU as the user cotrol what "crossover points" you want your speakers to play.
When you use a passive setup(a setup with 2 crossovers) the amplification goes through them first BEFORE getting to your speakers and some power is lost there. Also you dont get to choose which crossover points your speakers are playing at, its already pre determined.(which sucks).
A head unit such as the Pioneer Premier DEH-P880prs, Alpine CDA-9887 will have build in crossover capabilities.(for your tweeters, mids AND sub) Thats why they call it a 3 way crossover built in.
You Must have a 4 channel amp JUST for your tweeters and mids to run an active setup in the front. each tweeter and each mid require a seperate channel to power.
Also running active in your frontstage will pretty much leave you without speakers in the rear of your car/truck. Their are some ways to get around it, but its usually not necessary. BECAUSE if your front stage is setup properly, there is no way in hell you could ever tell you didnt have rear speakers.
I did the test myself. Had 5 friends sit in my car in the front passenger seat and listen to it...afterwards asked them if they could tell I didnt have any rear speakers. They all said NOPE.
The equalizer is built into the Head unit of choice that has active capabilities. You dont use the crossovers on the amp, you use the crossovers on the Head unit.(You can also use the crossovers on the amp if your amp has them, BUT you wont have any control at any given moment if you want to change anything while sitting inside the car.)
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Okay since I just noticed you only have a 2 channel amp, your going to need to sell that and get a 4 channel amp. or buy another 2 channel amp. Id recommend getting a 4 channel amp. one that does something like 100x4 @4 ohm. or 80w will be fine. something like that can be had for like hmm... $100-150 or so.
You will then need mids and tweeters.
This is what I am currently running:
MIDS:http://parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=296-602
Tweets:http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1466
Those are per mid and per driver.
What are you looking to spend? If your on a budget, this 2 way combo has proven itself time and time again:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-product-reviews/13820-mach-5-mli-65-6-5-woofer-alpine-type-x-tweeter-budget-active-review.html
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Here is some information you should read on specific drivers:
http://zaphaudio.com/6.5test/
Here are tweeters:http://zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/
I have given you TONS of information. Please ask questions if you have ANY.
Im telling you, active is the way to go. You even live in MD, so do I. I will help you if your close.