my system is too heavy for my car..

id say the dont eat like a fatass diet will work

that and um....how bout less rotatinal mass? if you are going to ***** about accleration and braking lose the G-wheels some lightweight 17s with sticky ass 40 or 45 series rubber will work wonders on that car.

 
^ don't start another one of these cap threads guys. Everyone has their own opinions and don't clutter this guys thread up with worthless babble.
An alternator would for sure take care of the draw issue.
How would a larger arternator take care of the draw issue? The more current is demanded of the alt, the more it produces. The more it produces, the more draw it pulls down on the motor. The draw from a 100 amp alt to create 100 amps (for example) would be approximately the same as the draw from a 200 amp alt pulling 100 amps. So increasing the alternator size, while helping the charging system's voltage most likely, will not really change the draw on the engine at all. And chances are the vast majority of performance loss he's feeling (acceleration AND braking) is due to added weight, not draw from the alternator.

For weight, going to a single driver system is a good idea. Another idea would be spending the extra $ on birch plywood rahter than mdf for the enclosure, its quite a bit lighter.

Adding a cap was just a hillarious joke.... that was a joke right?

 
How would a larger arternator take care of the draw issue? The more current is demanded of the alt, the more it produces. The more it produces, the more draw it pulls down on the motor. The draw from a 100 amp alt to create 100 amps (for example) would be approximately the same as the draw from a 200 amp alt pulling 100 amps. So increasing the alternator size, while helping the charging system's voltage most likely, will not really change the draw on the engine at all. And chances are the vast majority of performance loss he's feeling (acceleration AND braking) is due to added weight, not draw from the alternator.
For weight, going to a single driver system is a good idea. Another idea would be spending the extra $ on birch plywood rahter than mdf for the enclosure, its quite a bit lighter.

Adding a cap was just a hillarious joke.... that was a joke right?
I was sugguesting an alternator from a voltage standpoint because that was the problem I thought he was asking about, not because of his engine's performance.

 
How would a larger arternator take care of the draw issue? The more current is demanded of the alt, the more it produces. The more it produces, the more draw it pulls down on the motor. The draw from a 100 amp alt to create 100 amps (for example) would be approximately the same as the draw from a 200 amp alt pulling 100 amps. So increasing the alternator size, while helping the charging system's voltage most likely, will not really change the draw on the engine at all. And chances are the vast majority of performance loss he's feeling (acceleration AND braking) is due to added weight, not draw from the alternator.
For weight, going to a single driver system is a good idea. Another idea would be spending the extra $ on birch plywood rahter than mdf for the enclosure, its quite a bit lighter.

Adding a cap was just a hillarious joke.... that was a joke right?
atleast I'm not the ONLY one talking sense.

 
single 15" L7 in a ~3cuft ported box sound good?? or should i go with the 12".... the 15" cant be that much heavier then the 12" could it? and yeah i still have to do the big 3.. its been too cold and ive been busy..

 
The enclosure requirements of the sub have to be considered when you are trying to save weight. Going from 2 subs to one sub might not help your weight issue much if you need a much larger enclosure for the single sub compared to the single.

As has been mentioned several times already, if you really care about the performance aspect of the car, lose the low performance wheels. Shaving rotational mass is much more important to acceleration and braking than shaving overall weight on the car. I used to know what the ratio was but it was very high as far the effects of shaving rotational mass compared to static mass.

HO alts don't address dynamic current draw, only long term current draw. If the problem is voltage dips with music transients, an alt isn't a fix. A cap doesn't hold enough charge to make much of a difference on its own. A second battery is a much better solution.

 
I agree with every1 on the the whole alternator idea etc etc, i come from a racing background I know as far as the brakes, your rims are a factor there, as well as the system. Bigger brake kit may be in order if not already done. And acceleration, i know this a lame idea but 1 none the less, the GTP is the supercharged version correct? maybe do a pulley swap and get a chip for the car. Should give your car a little more power. Just my .02 -Joe:D

 
buy an intake and an electric supercharger and get a kinetik battery and u will be fine...u can also get all new ground wires for ur whole engine if u want more power

 
HO alts don't address dynamic current draw, only long term current draw. If the problem is voltage dips with music transients, an alt isn't a fix. A cap doesn't hold enough charge to make much of a difference on its own. A second battery is a much better solution.
Why dont you think a HO alt would help stiffen system voltage? It certainly should, even for transient response. If after adding a HO you still have transient voltage dipping problems, you have too much resistance in your wiring/connections most likely.
 
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