My new box in the making

Lookin' pretty good thus far. Round them corners for a pro look and then paint as you said.
Might I suggest T-Nuts, spiked ones so that you can mount the subs and then pull them out all day if you wanna.
Is it really worth the work to go with t-nuts? I'm not sure I'm convinced. Isn't it that when you install the sub they normally stay in?

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Is it really worth the work to go with t-nuts? I'm not sure I'm convinced. Isn't it that when you install the sub they normally stay in?

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You don't have to. For people who plan on swapping out subs often, then it's a good way to go. After screwing and unscrewing so many times it'll eventually get alittle loose and the sub might possibly come out while playing. This happened to me once with my first box I ever bought. Was a custom ported box that was passed around and I bought it for dirt cheap. I put my sub in and let it rip and all the screws just fell out! I was trippin' out but luckily it didnt break anything. Just rotated the sub alittle and screwed in new holes. You could also just use wood filler if worse comes to worse. It'll be like new again. It's up to you tho. I personally never had a problem using regular screws as I never had to swap out a sub that many times from a box.

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I get it but don't expect to switch subs and if I did , what are the odds that the hole pattern will match ?

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75e36f36eb7f0d621e17fe6a0de5a861.jpg


Rounded edges , all holes filled . Later it will be sanded, painted and done. I bought 2 JL grills for protection and all good.

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Done deal - should have painted the port but I needed to hear this thing. I won't know if I like the sound for till I watch some of my favorite flicks. Done for now though....

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Sound update : gets low for sure , feels like when going this low you compromise output. Any thoughts on this ?

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Your port may not tuned low enough. May be that your pressuring a larger area or could need to reposition the box i know my Velodyne sub is very sensitive to where it's positioned in the room. Some area's of the room sound like almost no output from the sub.

 
These are T-nuts for anyone interested:

t-nuts-stainless-steel.jpg


They have teeth that are supposed to bite into the wood. You stick those inside and mount the sub using machine screws (since you wouldn't be able to reach a normal nut). I've used them before in MDF and they'd often fall out, even after adding adhesive to them. I'd just use coarse drywall screws or something with a large thread. If the holes give out just rotate the sub a bit and drill new ones.

The box looks good. I actually thought HT subs were tuned higher, like 40Hz, but that's probably just on the prebuilt ones in the cheap surround sound packs I've heard - for easy, boomy output.

 
My 15's have those spiked t-nuts. And 1/4" allenhead bolts=makes it a b!tch for a theif to steal subs if it gets to that point.

That's not rounded corners. My current box has 3/8" roundover. I'm guessing you don't gotta router.

Nor a Jasperjig. Cutting mounting depth is so 90's.

 
My 15's have those spiked t-nuts. And 1/4" allenhead bolts=makes it a b!tch for a theif to steal subs if it gets to that point.
That's not rounded corners. My current box has 3/8" roundover. I'm guessing you don't gotta router.

Nor a Jasperjig. Cutting mounting depth is so 90's.
Yeah that's a small radius made by hand . If I find my self making more boxes I may buy a router. I just sold a sub , lol - guy offered me a good dollar so I'm actually gonna cut this box in half and sand and paint for a single or build a 2.0cft at 29hz - I feel the bigger boxes get a bit louder and lower.

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Port might be limiting output down low as it's far from ideal being that narrow/tall. Do you hear chuffing out of the port on low stuff?

I've done HT subs tuned in the 30's and in the teens, just depends upon if they will be for movies/music or strictly LFE in movies....

 
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