my my a/b US amps vs. buying a class d US amp?

[loud-n-low 10+ year member]

not trying to start a class a/b vs class D war but...i have an ax1000 us amp and was wondering if it would be worth going to a md2d(1500x1)for a little more power. a review i read claims the md2d started to cut off just below 40hz? will i lose low end(20-40hz) moving to this amp? i have always ran class a/b and dont want to be dissapointed going to a class D. anyone that runs a class d us amp please chime in

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[loud-n-low 10+ year member]

not trying to start a class a/b vs class D war but...i have an ax1000 us amp and was wondering if it would be worth going to a md2d(1500x1)for a little more power. a review i read claims the md2d started to cut off just below 40hz? will i lose low end(20-40hz) moving to this amp? i have always ran class a/b and dont want to be dissapointed going to a class D. anyone that runs a class d us amp please chime in

 

[loud-n-low 10+ year member]

double post mod please delete this

 

[Grinder1989 5,000+ posts]

Class D is better for subs. More efficient, they run cooler, and are easy to get parts for and fix if you blow one up.

 

[loud-n-low 10+ year member]

Class D is better for subs. More efficient, they run cooler, and are easy to get parts for and fix if you blow one up.

im more concerned about the sound than repairability

 

[Grinder1989 5,000+ posts]

I'd love to do a blind test and see if you could tell the difference.

 

[schrummy 10+ year member]

i run a class a/b us amps usa-2000x there is no audible difference then the rd 1750 that i had at the listening levels that i had with it.

go class d. as stated before, they are easier to fix if something goes wrong.

 

[cleansoundzz 10+ year member]

If you get the class D which is more efficient just don't run it at 1 ohm because you will loss some sound quality.

 

[gunz4me 10+ year member]

i read claims the md2d started to cut off just below 40hz? will i lose low end(20-40hz) moving to this amp?

Isn't that one of the general problems with Class D amplifiers? The lower you go (ETA in frequency) the harder it is to get rated output from certain Class D amps? They are not all this way BUT that is something to consider!

 

[RowJoe 10+ year member]

How many subs?

 

[Mass Car Audio 10+ year member]

If you get the class D which is more efficient just don't run it at 1 ohm because you will loss some sound quality.

NO that is not true at all.

 

[Mass Car Audio 10+ year member]

Isn't that one of the general problems with Class D amplifiers? The lower you go (ETA in frequency) the harder it is to get rated output from certain Class D amps? They are not all this way BUT that is something to consider!

Class a/b amps are also like this.

 

[Grinder1989 5,000+ posts]

If you get the class D which is more efficient just don't run it at 1 ohm because you will loss some sound quality.

Uh yea if your clipping it. Most Class D amps perform their best @ 1 ohm.

 

[gunz4me 10+ year member]

Uh yea if your clipping it. Most Class D amps perform their best @ 1 ohm.

I have a Crossfire BMF1000d that heats up faster at 4 ohms than it does at 1. It is also a current hog and draws just as much juice at 1 ohm as my 25 to Life Punch 150 does at 4!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif

 

[Grinder1989 5,000+ posts]

I have a Crossfire BMF1000d that heats up faster at 4 ohms than it does at 1. It is also a current hog and draws just as much juice at 1 ohm as my 25 to Life Punch 150 does at 4!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif

I run a Mmats D200HC. Heat and current are not an issue.