My Fotoblog

[pwnt by pat 10+ year member]

GC, that's what I was thinking when you said you weren't going to vent the membrane to the outside of the car. I'm sure audiolife will chime in (//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif) but what's the efficiency difference between venting the membrane to the outside of the car vs venting into a small "sealed" enclosure vs venting in to no enclosure?

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

he better not seal off the rest of the kick lol all you have to do to make the speaker act ib is go beyond the vas of it reguardless if u membrane it or not use the membrane as your "box" or enclosure works pretty good .

 

[pwnt by pat 10+ year member]

SO, it doesn't matter where the membrane opens up to as long as it's not a sealed container?

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

right. basically theres an "inner" box (which is as small as possible) and an "outer" box (which is whatever size you want). The only way for air to pass from the "inner" enclosure to the "outer" enclosure should be through the membrane. The "inner" enclosure should otherwise be sealed. The "outer" enclosure can have a hole in it wherever, so long as it opens right into carpet.

I'm pretty sure.

 

[pwnt by pat 10+ year member]

That's definately good to know and I just may do that with the kodas. It would make life really easy.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

right. basically theres an "inner" box (which is as small as possible) and an "outer" box (which is whatever size you want). The only way for air to pass from the "inner" enclosure to the "outer" enclosure should be through the membrane. The "inner" enclosure should otherwise be sealed. The "outer" enclosure can have a hole in it wherever, so long as it opens right into carpet.
I'm pretty sure.

it can go anywhere just not the carpet it is just a cosmetic advantage to do so that way if someone feels around your kicks they are whole and not like a wall or an edge leading to the speaker.

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

allright guys here's a 50 pic update

here's req fastening my horn to the underside of my dash, which is also attached temporarily to the horn mold made previously (the horn and mold are being zip-tied)

driver side horn and mold attached

passenger side horn and mold attached

using an assortment of lengths of wooden dowels to attach the baffle and horn mold to the car mold

here i am trimming the car mold to an appropriate shape

here's the mold completely ready to go in the car

req is in the process of stretching fleece over the frame of the kick

finished!

wow check out that nice contour

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

here's the kick and horn installed for a couple pictures

a layer of fiberglass on each kick, horn in place just to make sure it fits when all is said and done. the contour is still there.

a little bit of sanding and here's a test fit for the passenger side

me blowing off my car, it got dusty with so much FG cutting and sanding

a little bit of bondo and sanding and this one is nearly finished! i used fiberglass reinforced body filler to match the shape of the kick to the underside of the dash.

a test fit of the mid and horn, sweet

here's a close up of that edge

a little further away from the passenger seat

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

both mids and horns and kicks in

initial listening. check the dust on the dash in the third pic

lights out. my double din matches now!

first, we listened to them sealed

then, we cut out a portion of the back of the kick and listened to them IB (ish)

then, we put in the aperiodic membrane and listened again.

each time, we tried to EQ them to the best of our ability. It was really difficult to EQ sealed and IB to where they sounded flat and good. However when we put the aperiodic membrane in, it was a cinch to EQ and it sounded amazing after only a little bit of tweaking.

here's the aperiodic membrane, made out of the same material as the insulation in the walls of your house

the RTA on the dash for easy readings

here's how we attached the mic to the ceiling

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

here's what we could get the RTA to read after a bit of practice with the 31-band RTA and 31-band graphic EQ

alternator to battery positive lead, fused with a 300A

my Iraggi alternator. the pulley was so much smaller I was within a half of an inch of having to get a new belt

another view of the alternator, with the 0awg big 3 upgrade installed

this is my old yellow top, on the positive terminal from left to right: 0awg to alternator, 0awg to trunk, 4awg to stock car positive; then on the negative terminal we have the 0awg to ground and then the stock ground bolted up top

while I was working under the hood, req was cutting some cardboard to make stencils for our amplifier rack

here is my grounding bolt near the bottom center, and then top center you can see the hole in the metal paneling between cabin and trunk that i fed all of my wires through.

heres a close up of the hole on the driver side. through this hole is: 0awg power wire, primary RCA's, a remote wire, both horns' speaker wires, and processor remote wire. i might have problems with the RCA's being there but if i do, the RCA's are about 10 feet too long so I can re-route them a different way.

all of my wires are fed through the holes and coiled neatly on my upside-down rear deck

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

the box is 5 cubes sealed with a vertical and baffle brace, has about 30 oz of poly fill in it, and i carpeted it and wrapped both subs with my primo rope caulk, dropped them in and that box is NICE. also in these pics you can see the trim pieces we made to isolate the baffle from the rest of the trunk, also carpeted.

the left front amp rack piece of wood. 1/2" mdf, cut to size

a little bit of carpet over this piece of wood

staple guns are sweet

both the left and right front amp rack pieces have been mounted. now on to the top pieces which are a bit odd shaped. by the way in this picture you can see some silicone caulk which i layed down to eliminate possible rattles between the two pieces of MDF.

here's req carpeting the awkward piece of wood

the finished piece. looks good

a test fit, looks sweet so far

all wood carpeted, here's a glimpse of what it will look like when we are finished

 

[~Magick_Man~ 10+ year member]

sharp metal + power wire FTL....

other than that it is looking very sexay.

~Magick_Man~

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

sharp metal + power wire FTL....

other than that it is looking very sexay.

~Magick_Man~

its not sharp at all... it would take a lot of effort to rip into the 0awg to ground because after it is installed there will be no problems with stressing it

i, think it will be fine //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

very nice... I hope your feet don't get clastraphobic ... anyways that's **** nice work...

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

*******.

nG