wowI think the stock alt and alot of batteries might work. My buddy is running 4 RD HW D9 amps (5k@1ohm each) off a 130 amp alt he is running 18 batteries though. He idles right at 12.5 but it stays like that all day long doesnt even drop or move.
yes bff, //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifOMG!!!!!!!!
bff huh?
that is because you are a friggin idoit, you have changed your story i dont know how many times, you told mechman it is working, you tell me it only worked for 4 secs, and you told mike(vertex audio) it worked for a hour...yeah, not having any luck with installing mine either...
haha niceeethat is because you are a friggin idoit, you have changed your story i dont know how many times, you told mechman it is working, you tell me it only worked for 4 secs, and you told mike(vertex audio) it worked for a hour...
how about you take your alternator to a shop so someone that knows what the hell they are doing will put it on
Alright. First here's a video of the problems we were having.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIHNzTPgFpc
We tested all the logical wires such as the main charge wire and regulator wire. It turned out to be niether of those. We even bypassed the main charge wire thinking it was trash and it still did the same thing. I turns out it was a problem in the wire harness coming from the cars computer. we tried tracking a fuse thinking that was the problem but couldn't find no fuse to it. I called Robby from DC Power and he said to tap into the yellow wire and run a same size of wire from the battery to the yellow wire and what do you know it turned right on. The guy that even commented in the youtube video also had similar issues. Robbie told me it could've been caused by the engine getting to hot and possibly unsoldering a connection or it was just a bad wire. But needless to say, we bought just an entire new wiring harness from ford and slapped it in and it worked just fine.
Hope that helps.
but adding that yellow wire i should not need cuz it did work. and puting that wire on the batt means the alt never truns off untill u take it off. could drain your batts. its like my setup. toggle switch that turns on the alt with ext volt regAlright. First here's a video of the problems we were having.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIHNzTPgFpc
We tested all the logical wires such as the main charge wire and regulator wire. It turned out to be niether of those. We even bypassed the main charge wire thinking it was trash and it still did the same thing. I turns out it was a problem in the wire harness coming from the cars computer. we tried tracking a fuse thinking that was the problem but couldn't find no fuse to it. I called Robby from DC Power and he said to tap into the yellow wire and run a same size of wire from the battery to the yellow wire and what do you know it turned right on. The guy that even commented in the youtube video also had similar issues. Robbie told me it could've been caused by the engine getting to hot and possibly unsoldering a connection or it was just a bad wire. But needless to say, we bought just an entire new wiring harness from ford and slapped it in and it worked just fine.
Hope that helps.
FYI, just because you're an electrician doesn't mean you know anything about alts.We clamped it. the alt put out .5 amps. all my wiring for the system was .001 amps. the car itself was 18 amps. thats all we found. he said the alt is garbage.
edit btw the alt was geting hot off .5 amps. thats sad. Should not get oven hot trying to push out .5 amps. thats what my parents friend said. fyi he has his own eletric shop.