My 04 Solara full car deadening project - Lots of pictures

calebkhill
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
I already made this thread at another forum, figured Id share it here at CA.com

Im not going to to alot of discussion, so Ill just post pics. Any questions feel free to ask.

Final Conclusions

When first reading and reasearching the process of sound deadening, many times I came across the fact that road noise causes problems for your music. I took this into consideration and listened in my car with volume down, and I saw that the statement had to be true. Road noise is loud.... Next time you get in your car, put your volume at your regular listening level, and ride for 5 minutes. After getting used to your music, mute the volume and listen. I can guarantee you that you will notice that there is alot of noise coming from your car and the road, and that its loud.

So I was thinking today and had a few thoughts.

For example, rear fill, what does it do? It interferes with your front stage. Causes phase issues and distraction. Overall it can change the way your music sounds. The same applies to road noise. Road noise interferes with your music. And the fact that it is continuous and loud, it changes the way it sounds and it's timbre. I promise.

Another example. Have you ever been tuning your system, listening to tweeters only? Notice how when tweeters are the only speakers playing they arent that loud? Also, they sound like a raspy, wispy, high pitched, white noiseish version of your music. But have you ever listened to your system with your tweeters off? Do it. Listen, then turn your tweeters on. They make a huge difference to the way your music sounds. With that being said, since your tweeters are relatively low in volume and theyre sounds are very sensitive and detailed, the same loud road noise interferes with them, if not drowining out much of their detail.

Same applies to dedicated midbass drivers. When played by themselves, they are a low, muddy sounding version of your music. And the constant roar of the road interferes with the way they sound, it changes their timbre.

And have you ever listened to your music in the driveway, parked? Notice how there is some mysterious difference in the way it sounds while moving? Its road noise.......

With these losses in detail caused by road noise, you cant hear your music with full quality.

So with all that being said:

Results

75%-90% decrease in road noise - I can't tell in between these percentages what the decrease is, but from my own perspective, the noise from the road has decreased more than 50%. I would say 90%, but to be safe 75%. Ill put it this way, im like "wow, omg". To a point that the only thing I can hear is the wind whiping around my car.

Better high frequency responce - With that amount of road noise gone, high frequencies are amazing. Before, I had a good install with good equipment and on point tuning. But now, my music is much more clearer and detailed. I can hear even more in my music that I couldn't hear before.

Better midbass responce - Everything just sounds warm at the low end. Full sounding. Its impressive.

My concerns during install and suggestions

The firewall - This was a concearn of mine. Considering right behind it is the engine, I wanted to take care of it. So I ran MLV as far up as I could.

The rear deck - God aweful rattling. Besides the deck itself, rattling in the trunk comes through there. I suggest cld and ccf over this area. Also, add weight using MLV if your deck panel vibrates.

Rear wells - Probably the thing that worried me the most. After removing the panels, I could hear water puddles, dirst specs, and roaring wind, LOUD, coming from there. I suggest you give 100% coverage AND effort to this area. Seal it up, thick and tight. Its nasty at how much RACKET comes through there.

Back seat floor - The area under the backseat was loud. Water puddles and the road roaring come from here. 100 percent coverage no doubt here. ccf, mlv, and cld if you can, as much as possible.

Doors - We all know about deadening doors. But road noise comes in here as well. CLD to stop the metal from vibrating and stop noise. I suggest 100% coverage on the door with CLD or MLV to get the best results.

Trunk - Yea, the trunk rattles on the outside of your car and it sounds stupid. But that rattling comes into your car also. 100% coverage on the trunk lid. Also, ROAD NOISE comes from back there too. Back seats im sure block most of it, but if you can, 100% coverage of the trunk floor with watever material you can.

I can say all that with confidence, because after deadening each area of my car, I could tell the audible difference. These are not assumptions or things Ive read, im telling you the differences I heard during my install.

If you plan on doing a deadening project also TAKE YOUR TIME. Dont think "O im ready to do all this so I can hear it". If you slack, you may end up dissappointed. When it comes to deadening, its a project, not a task. Whether it be the truck, doors, or full car deadening project, take your time. divide your project into sections, and give 100% attention to what your are doing. Will this rattle? Lets ccf. Will noise come from here? Lets cover it.

Stop and think. Use your head while working. Pay attention. Examine. Because if you don't give attention to whatever your doing, you'll miss something that could either be a problem or could have made an improvement.

As you work it'll come to you.

By the way Im just a noob lol. Dont take me as no expert or nothin haha.

This was fun.

Rear deck

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Doors

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Rear wells

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How much did it cost for all the supplies if you don't mind me asking? My cabin is about similiar size and this is about how in depth I want to go with it and wanting to know what it'll run me

 
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calebkhill

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