Moutning subs

What kind of screws do you guys use to screw your subs down to box...They are db500 and 3/4" thick box...Wood screws?
I believe the most common screw used is a 'drywall screw'. Usually black, usually phillips head, usually a coarse thread for ripping into mat'l. Length will be determined by your specific needs, Im sure you can figure that out. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I prefer about the coarsest thread you can find for MDF. I can find screws locally that are verey similar to drywall, but more aggressive thread (with greater thread pitch and spacing) that seem to work even better.

Always always always always always always always always always pre-drill into MDF. Always.

Tight...and its okay to screw amp down to box also isnt it? Ive read to not and read its okay..Whats your thoughts on this...
There are pro's and cons to this mounting method:
pro's:

1) Usually the quickest and easiest method of mounting an amp.

2) Amp is mounted to a wooden rack, as it should be (deadened and electrically insulated)

3) Usually makes accessibility to the amp very easy.

cons:

1) Theft. Like said above, nice little package to be carried away.

2) Vibration. This is where people usually argue back and forth. Some people claim the added vibration from mounting directly to the speaker box will eventually destroy the mechanical/solder joints in your amplifier's circuit boards, while other say they've used this mounting methods many times for years on end without fail. *shrug*

3) It looks like the easiest mounting method (not very unique).

4) Harder to hide wires usually.

Think that covers the main issues.

 
Want it tight?

Want to keep the MDF from tearing up if you remove your sub?

260-778L.jpg


CAST FRAME SPEAKER MOUNTING KIT 1/4"-20

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-778&scqty=2

 
Want it tight?
Want to keep the MDF from tearing up if you remove your sub?

260-778L.jpg


CAST FRAME SPEAKER MOUNTING KIT 1/4"-20

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-778&scqty=2
You know, I got in on the T-nut craze a while back too, until I needed to start removing speakers from their boxes. As others had warned me, the nut doesn't bite into MDF well and when you go to back the bolt off, the nut pops out of its grip on the wood and simply spins free. This makes it VERY difficult to remove the speaker without damaging something in the process.

Until/unless someone comes up with a better T-nut made for MDF, or a good process of making these work (glue maybe...?) I would stay as far away from t-nuts as humanly possible. They seem wonderful at first, but God help you once one of those nuts pops out when it shouldn't.

 
As others had warned me, the nut doesn't bite into MDF well and when you go to back the bolt off, the nut pops out of its grip on the wood and simply spins free.

Thats why you put a drop of glue on the T nut when its first installed.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Thats why you put a drop of glue on the T nut when its first installed.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
Ive considered that, obviously. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif But, will a little wood glue between MDF and metal really hold when it comes down to wrenching bolts on and off? That's alot of force.
 
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